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Czupryna

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One ofSachsenspiegel'sillustrations. AWendstands at the left, gesturing that he does not understand the speech. He has a halfshaven head and characteristically wrapped legs, like all the Wends in theSachsenspiegel.
Henry I the BeardedandJadwiga of Andechswedding, 14th century Poles are on the left, with halfshaven heads. Medieval Poles didn't like long hair: Henry's beard was so strange to them that he was even called "the Bearded".
Stanisław Koniecpolski
Stanisław Koniecpolski,17th century
The Last of Nieczujas

Theczupryna(Polish:wysokie polskie cięcie, podgolony łeb, łaszczówka), also known as thePolish halfshaven head,is a traditional Polish noble haircut, associated mainly withSarmatism,but worn by Poles in the Middle Ages too. It is marked by shaving hair above the ears and on the neck at the same height, with longer hair on the top of the head. For hundreds of years it was typical of Poles.

History[edit]

The origins of the halfshaven head are not clear. It was probably worn before the 12th century until its slow disappearance in the 18th century. Some of the earliest mentions of the "Polish halfshaven head" from the Middle Ages were written by an anonymous Franciscan in 1308,[1]Wincenty from Kielcza[2](half of 13th century), and Austrian poetZygfryd Helbling(end of 13th century),[3][4]who was swearing on Polish and Czech influences.[clarification needed]In the chronicles of Mierzwa (beginning of 14th century) fromKraków,we can also read that PrinceLeszek the Black(died in 1288) grew his hair to ingratiate himself with Germans, so it was a scandal both in his times and in the times of the chronicle. Graphic sources include the paten (half of 13th century) fromPłock Cathedralcommissioned byKonrad Mazowiecki,and the paten commissioned byMieszko the Old(year 1195)[5]for theCistercianmonastery inLąd,and the floor fromWiślica(years 1175-1180).[6]

The halfshaven head and other Slavs[edit]

It is possible that not only Poles, but also other Slavs wore a halfshaven head. In the year 1235, the BritishFranciscanBartholomeus Anglicuswrote in his encyclopedia that for the most part all the Slavs, except Ruthenians and those Slavs who were mixed with Germans and Latins, shave their heads.[7]Bartholomeus, who lived in Magdeburg for several years, knew the Slavic lands well.[8]By "Slavic lands" he meant the area fromSaxonytoRutheniaand fromDalmatia,CarinthiaandSerbiato theBaltic Sea.Saxo Grammaticusalso wrote about shaven heads and the dislike of beards when writing about the Slavic temple ofArkona(Jaromarsburg).[9]He wrote that according to the common custom, only priests could grow long hair and beards.[10]

In a Saxon manifesto against Slavic pagans from the year 1108 it is mentioned that Slavs simulated Saxons during an attack by wearing their scalps[11]- Saxons grew long hair,[12]so the Polabian haircut had to be very different: very short. This suggests that the custom of shaving the hair, recognised as Polish in the 13th century, had to be more widespread.

The existence of theczuprynaamongst the Polabian Slav territories is clearly attested by many archaeological discoveries. By way of example, one may adduce the following: a small bronze statue from Schwedt/Oder (X-11th century),[13][14]Altfriesack Götze,a wooden statue from Altfriesack (6th-7th century),[15]a sitting statue from Gatschow near Demmin (XI-12th century),[16]and a small sculpture from Merserburg near Leipzig (10th century).[17]All the figures have short hair and halfshaven heads. There are also a metal fitting from the museum in Oldburg and a wooden statue from Wolin (10th century). Because of corrosion, it is difficult to say if the heads are shaven, but the hair is surely short.[18][19]The clearest proof are theSachsenspiegelillustrations - allWendsin the illustrations (in contrast with the long-haired Saxons) have a short haircut, shaved at ear-height.

A halfshaven haircut, similar in appearance to a modernMohican haircut,was also worn by theCossacksofUkrainefrom the 1500s until the 20th century. This was known as theOseledetsand was seen as the mark of identification as a true Cossack.

Types of halfshaven head[edit]

Through the centuries in Polish literature we can see a specialised nomenclature surrounding theczupryna.It is possible to distinguish various types:

  • czupryna (staro)polska– the(old-)Polish halfshaven head.This is the oldest type of halfshaven head; we can see it in medieval sources, and similarly we know thatJan III Sobieskiwore this type ofczuprynatoo.
  • czupryna łaszczowa–Łaszcz's halfshaven head.This is the type ofczuprynaconnected withSamuel Łaszcz,who, according to sources, popularised this type. In theczupryna łaszczowatype, the shaving was higher.
  • czupryna czerkieska– theCherkess halfshaven head.From the name, we can deduce that this type was probably similar to traditionalCircassianmale haircuts.
  • czupryna szwedzka– theSwedish halfshaven head.According to the sources the shaving was lower, more similar to theOrder of Saint Benedicttonsure, and sprinkled with powder.
  • głowa cybulana– theonion-like head.A playful name for a trend of reducing theczuprynato some hair at the top of the head.[20][21]
Another illustration of Wends fromSachsenspiegel.
Stanisław Koniecpolski
Aleksander Benedykt Sobieski, circa 1690
Stanisław Koniecpolski
Jerzy Ossoliński, circa 1635. Another popular, later version of halfshaven haircut with a tuft on the top.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^Anonymi descriptio Europeae Orientalis, wyd. O. Górka, Kraków 1916, s. 57–58:olim omnes Poloni ibant tonsi, sicut conversi cistercienses, sed nunc aliqui incipiunt dimittere crines.
  2. ^Vita minor,cap. 24, MPH IV, s. 272:Ob cuius dispesacionis beneficium ac recordacionis memorabile signum indictum est Polonis, ut in tonsura rotunda conformarent se moribus religiosorum;to samo powtarzaVita maior,cap. 12, MPH IV, s382. Kontrowersje wokół datowania żywotów nie mają, według Jurka, znaczenia, gdyż dotyczą kilku lat, czyli około roku 1248 lub około 1254, zob. M. Plezia,Dookoła sprawy świętego Stanisława. Studium źródłoznawcze,wyd. 2, Bydgoszcz 1999, s. 138.
  3. ^Seifrief Helbling,Der Kleine Lucidarius,III 225 n. Wyd. J. Seemüller, Halle 1886 (reprint 1987), s. 123:Waz will du Pôlân hôchbeschorn?/der Ungern waere daz vil zorn/ der ir langem hâr erkür/die hôhen pôlânischen schüer.Pieśń trzecia powstała, według ustaleń wydawcy (s. XX), w latach 1292-1294.
  4. ^Ibidem, VIII 793n., s. 210 n.:und swer in disem lande snit/gewant nâch der Pôlân sit,/ daz dem sin hâr waer geschorn / hôch úf für die ôrn/ daz sold im nimer washen.Pieśń iVIII pochodzi z 1299 r.
  5. ^Sztuka polska przedromańska,il. 1058; P Skubiszewski,Patena kaliska,Rocz. Hist. Szt. 3 (1962), s. 158-213; do datacji por. T. Jurek,Dokumenty fundacyjne opactwa w Lądzie,Rocz. Hist. 66 (2000), s. 34; barwna reprodukcja w:Cystersi w średniowiecznej Polsce. Kultura i sztuka. Katalog wystawy,Warszawa-Poznań 1991, s. 142–143, 146–147.
  6. ^Sztuka polska przedromańska,il. 696, 703; L. Kalinowski,Romańska posadzka z rytami figuralnymi w krypcie kolegiaty wiślickiej,w:Odkrycia w Wiślicy. Rozprawy Zespołu Badań nad Polskim Średniowieczem Uniwersytetu Warszawskiego i Politechniki Warszawskiej,t. I, Warszawa 1963, s. 86–110; J. Leśny, w: SSS, t. VI, Wrocław 1980, s. 497-499 (z bibliografią); J. Dobosz,Polityka fundacyjna Kazimierza Sprawiedliwego,Poznań 1995, s. 54-57 (gdzie uściślenie ramowych dat powstania oraz zestawienie literatury).
  7. ^A. E. Schönbach,Des Bartolomeus Anglicus Beschreibung Deutschlands gegen 1240,Mitteilungen des Instituts für österreichsche Geschichstforschung 27 (1906), s. 54-90, tu s. 71:qui omnes se intelligunt et in multis sunt similes, quo ad linguam et quo ad mores, dispares tamen quo ad ritum, – omnes etiam isti pro maiori parte in coma sunt attonsi, exeptis Ruthenis et ilis, qui mixti sunt cum Teutonicis et Latinis.Fragment tekstu z późnośredniowiecznego wyciągu wydał W. Kętrzyński w MPH VI, s. 587-588, zamiastattonsidając jednakaccensi(zapalczywi?).
  8. ^Lexikon des Mittelalters,t. I kol. 1492-1493; por. Też A. F. Grabski,Polska w opiniach obcych X-XIII w.,Warszawa 1964, s. 95 i n.
  9. ^Saxo Grammaticus,Gesta Danorum,lib. XIV, cap. 39,3, wyd. J. Orlik, H. Raeder, t. I, Hauniae 1931, s. 645:Corrasae barbae, crines attonsi figurabatur, ut artificis industriam Rugianorum ritum in cultu capitum aemulatam putares.
  10. ^Ibidem, cap. 39,4:sacerdos praeter communem patriae ritum barbae comaeque prolixitate spectandus.
  11. ^Urkundenbuch des Erzstifts Magdeburg,wyd. F. Israel, Magdeburg 1937, nr. 193:Quamplures vivos excoriant et cute capitis abstracta hoc modo larvati in christianorum fines erumpunt et se christianos mentientes predas impune abigunt;przedruk: G. Labuda,Fragmenty dziejów Słowiańszczyzny Zachodniej,t. III, Poznań 1975, s. 233-236 (cytat s. 234); tamże obszerna dyskusja na temat tego zabytku. Na ustęp ten zwrócił uwagę S. Trawkowski, w:Kultura Polski średniowiecznej X-XIII w.,s. 64.
  12. ^Por. choćby u Widukinda lib. I cap. 9:mirati sunt Franci – diffusos scapulas caesarie [Saxones].
  13. ^http:// lda-lsa.de/landesmuseum_fuer_vorgeschichte/fund_des_monats/2009/dezember/ilustracja Abb.3
  14. ^"Bałwany".
  15. ^http:// lucivo.pl/2012/09/bawany.htmlZdjęcia głowy:http://swinow.livejournal /58500.html
  16. ^http://lucivo1.rssing /browser.php?indx=7563107&item=11[permanent dead link]Link do szkicu(Abb.6):http:// lda-lsa.de/landesmuseum_fuer_vorgeschichte/fund_des_monats/2012/januar/
  17. ^"Landesamt für Denkmalpflege und Archäologie".
  18. ^http://lucivo1.rssing /browser.php?indx=7563107&item=11[permanent dead link]
  19. ^http:// lda-lsa.de/landesmuseum_fuer_vorgeschichte/fund_des_monats/2012/januar/Fotografia Abb.4
  20. ^"Encyklopedia staropolska/Czupryna - Wikiźródła, wolna biblioteka".
  21. ^"O strojach czyli sukniach - Wikiźródła, wolna biblioteka".


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