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Lolita fashion

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This article is about the Japanese fashion style. For other uses, seeLolita (disambiguation).

Angelic Pretty,a shop specializing in lolita fashion

Lolita fashion(ロリータ・ファッション,rorīta fasshon)is asubculturefromJapanthat is highly influenced byVictorianclothing and styles from theRococoperiod.[1][2][3][4][5][6]A very distinctive property of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic ofcuteness.[7][8]This clothing subculture can be categorized into three main substyles: 'Gothic', 'Classic', and 'Sweet'.[3][9]Many other substyles such as 'Sailor', 'Country', 'Hime' (princess), 'Guro' (grotesque), 'Qi' and 'Wa' (based on traditional Chinese and Japanese dress), 'Punk', 'Shiro' (white), 'Kuro' (black), and 'Steampunk' Lolita also exist. This style evolved into a widely followed subculture in Japan and other countries in the 1990s and 2000s[10][11][12][13][14]and may have waned in Japan as of the 2010s as the fashion became more mainstream.[15][16][17]

Description

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The main feature of Lolita fashion is the volume of the skirt, created by wearing apetticoatorcrinoline.[18][19][20]The skirt can be either bell-shaped or A-line shaped.[20]Components of the Lolita wardrobe consist mainly of ablouse(long or short sleeves) with a skirt or a dress, which usually comes to the knees.[21]Lolitas frequently wear wigs in combination with other headwear such as hair bows or bonnets (similar topoke bonnets). Lolitas can also wear Victorian style drawers under their petticoats. For further effect, some Lolitas use knee socks, ankle socks, or tights, together with eitherhigh heelsor flat shoes with a bow. Other typical Lolita garments includejumperskirts(JSK) and one-pieces (OP).[22]

History

[edit]

Although the origin of the fashion is unclear, at the end of the 1970s a new movement known asOtome-keiwas founded, which slightly influenced Lolita fashion sinceOtomemeansmaidenand maiden style looks like a less elaborated Lolita style.[18]Before Otome-kei emerged, there was already a rise of cuteness culture in the earlier seventies; during this period there was a strong emphasis on cute and childish handwriting in Japanese schools.[23][24][25]As a result, the companySanriobegan experimenting with cute designs.[26]The cuteness style, known askawaii style,became popular in the 1980s.[27][28]After Otome-kei,Do-It-Yourselfbehavior became popular, which led to the emergence of a new style called 'doll-kei', the predecessor of Lolita fashion.[29][21]

Between 1977 and 1998, a large part of theHarajukushopping district closed for car traffic on Sundays. The result was an increase in interaction between pedestrians in Harajuku.[30]When brands likePINK HOUSE(1973),[10][31]Milk (1970),[10]andAngelic Pretty(1979)[32]began to sell cute clothing, it resulted in the emergence of a new style that would later become known as 'Lolita'.[33]

The term 'Lolita' first appeared in the fashion magazineRyukou Tsushinin the September 1987 issue.[10]Shortly after that,Baby, The Stars Shine Bright(1988),[34]Metamorphose temps de fille(1993),[35]and other brands emerged.[10]In the 1990s, Lolita became more accepted, withvisual keibands likeMalice Mizerand others rising in popularity. These band members wore elaborate clothes that fans began to adopt.[34]During this time Japan went through an economic depression,[36]leading to an increase in alternative youth and fashion cultures such as gyaru, otaku, visual kei, and Lolita,[34]as well as visual-kei-inspired clothing such as Mori, Fairy Kei, and Decora.[37]The Lolita style spread quickly from theKansairegion and finally reachedTokyo;[citation needed]partly due to the economic difficulties there was a big growth in the cuteness and youth cultures that originated in the seventies.[34]

In the late nineties, theJingu Bashi(also called the Harajuku Bridge) became known as a meeting place for youth who wore Lolita and other alternative fashion,[10][38][39][40]and Lolita became more popular, causing a surge in warehouses selling Lolita fashion.[41]Important magazines that contributed to the spread of the fashion style were theGothic & Lolita Bible(2001), a spin-off of the popular Japanese fashion magazineKERA(1998), andFRUiTS(1997).[42][43]It was around this time that interest in and awareness of Lolita fashion began entering countries outside of Japan, with theGothic & Lolita Biblebeing translated into English and distributed outside of Japan through the publisherTokyopop,[44][45]andFRUiTSpublishing an English picture book ofJapanese Street Fashionin 2001. As the style became further popularized through the Internet, more shops opened abroad, such as Baby, The Stars Shine Bright in Paris (2007)[14]and in New York (2014).[46]

Over time, the youth that gathered in Harajuku or at Harajuku Bridge disappeared. One possible explanation is that the introduction offast fashionfrom retailersH&MandForever 21caused a reduction in the consumption of street fashion.[47][16]FRUiTSceased publication while theGothic & Lolita Biblewas put on hiatus in 2017.[47][48]As of May 2023,FRUiTShas been brought back as an ePublication with an English-language version.[49]

Sources of inspiration

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Handmade Lolita dress

European culturehas influenced Lolita fashion. The bookAlice in Wonderland(1865),[50][51]written byLewis Carroll,[52][53]has inspired many different brands and magazines,[34]such asAlice Deco.[52]The reason that the character Alice was a source of inspiration for Lolita fashion is that she was an ideal icon for the Shōjo (shoujo)-image,[34][54]meaning an image of eternal innocence and beauty.[55]The first complete translation of the book was published by Maruyama Eikon in 1910, translated under the title Ai-chan No Yume Monogatari (Fantastic stories of Ai).[56]Another figure fromRococothat served as a source of inspiration wasMarie Antoinette;[57]the mangaThe Rose of Versailles(Lady Oscar), based on her court, was created in 1979.

Popularization

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MusicianMana,pictured at a 2019 fashion show for his brand Moi-même-Moitié, is credited with helping to popularize Gothic Lolita.

People who have popularized the Lolita fashion includeYukari Tamura,Mana,andNovala Takemoto.Takemoto wrote thelight novelKamikaze Girls(2002)[11][58]about the relationship between Momoko, a Lolita girl, and Ichigo, aYanki.The book was adapted into a movie[11][59][60][61][62][excessive citations]and a manga in 2004. Novala himself claims that "There are no leaders within the Lolita world."[63][64]Mana is a musician and is known for popularizing the Gothic Lolita fashion.[5]He played in the rock bandMalice Mizer(1992–2001) and founded the heavy metal bandMoi dix Mois(2002–present). Both bands—whose members are known for eccentric expressions and elaborate costumes—are a part of thevisual keimovement. Mana founded his own fashion label, known asMoi-même-Moitiéin 1999, which specializes in Gothic Lolita.[65][66][67][68]Both bands are very interested in the Roccoco period.[65]

The government ofJapanhas also tried to popularize Lolita fashion. The Minister of Foreign Affairs in February 2009[69]assigned models to spread Japanese pop culture.[70][71][72][24]These people were given the title of Kawaa Taishi (ambassadors of cuteness).[71][34]The first three ambassadors of cuteness were modelMisako Aoki,who represents the Lolita style of frills-and-lace, Yu Kimura, who represents the Harajuku style, and Shizuka Fujioka, who represents the school-uniform-styled fashion.[71][73]Another way that Japan tries to popularize Japanese street fashion and Lolita is by organizing the international Harajuku walk in Japan, potentially leading other countries to organize similar walks.[74]

Possible reasons for the popularity of Lolita fashion outside of Japan include a growing interest in Japanese culture as well as use of theInternetas a place to share information,[38][72][75][76]leading to an increase in worldwide shopping and the opportunity for enthusiastic foreign Lolitas to purchase fashion items.[77]JK uniforms,hanfuand Lolita are the three most popular types of clothing among China'sGen Zconsumers.[78]The origin of Japanese cultural influence in the West can be traced back to the late nineties when cultural goods such asHello Kitty,Pokémon,[79]and translated mangas appeared in the West.[80]Anime was already being imported to the West in the early nineties,[81]and scholars also mention thatanimeandmangacaused the popularity of Japanese culture to rise.[37][82]This is supported by the idea that cultural streams have been flowing both from Japan to the West, and from the West to Japan.[83]

Motives

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Lolita is seen as a reaction against stifling Japanesesociety,in which young people are pressured to strictly adhere togender rolesand the expectations and responsibilities that are part of these roles.[84][85][86][87][88]Wearing fashion inspired by childhood clothing is a reaction against this.[89][85][90][91]This can be explained from two perspectives. Firstly, that it is a way to escape adulthood[18][65][92][93][94][95]and to go back to the eternal beauty of childhood.[96][97]Secondly, that it is an escape to a fantasy world, in which an idealidentitycan be created that would not be acceptable in daily life.[5][98][99]

Some Lolitas say they enjoy the dress of the subculture simply because it is fun and not as a protest against traditional Japanese society.[10]Other motives could be that wearing the fashion style increases their self-confidence[100][101][102][103]or to express an alternative identity.[10][77][32][99][104][105]

Socioeconomic dimension

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Many of the very early Lolitas in the 1990s hand-made most of their clothing, and were inspired by theDolly Kei movementof the previous decade.[31]Because of the diffusion of fashion magazines people were able to use Lolita patterns to make their own clothing.[citation needed]Another way to own Lolita was to buy it second-hand.[106]The do-it-yourself behaviour can be seen more frequently by people who cannot afford the expensive brands.[107]

Once more retail stores began selling Lolita fashion, it became less common for Lolitas to make their own clothing.[citation needed]Partly due to the rise ofe-commerceandglobalization,lolita clothing became more widely accessible with the help of the Internet. The market was quickly divided into multiple components: one which purchases mainly from Japanese or Chinese internet marketplaces, the other making use of shopping services to purchase Japanese brands,[77]with some communities making larger orders as a group.[108]Not every online shop delivers quality Lolita (inspired)products,a notorious example being Milanoo (2014).[109]Some web shops sell brand replicas, which is frowned upon by many in this community.[110]A Chinese replicamanufacturerthat is famous for his replica design is Oo Jia.[110]Second-handshopping is also an alternative to buying new pieces as items can be bought at a lower price (albeit with varying item condition) and is the sole method of obtaining pieces that are no longer produced by their respective brand.

Sociocultural dimension

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Many Lolitas consider being photographed without permission to be rude and disrespectful;[111][112][113]however, some rules differ or overlap in different parts of this community.[114]Lolitas often host meetings in public spaces such as parks, restaurants, cafes, shopping malls, public events, and festivals.[115]Some meetings take place at members' homes, and often have custom house rules (e.g. each member must bring their own cupcake to the meeting).[116]Lolita meetings are thus a social aspect of the Lolita fashion community, serving as an opportunity for members to meet one another.[citation needed]Many Lolitas also used to useLivejournalto communicate, but many have since switched toFacebookgroups.[117]

Terminology

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Lolita fashion emerged decades after the publication ofVladimir Nabokov's novelLolita(1955).[77][118]The first Japanese translation was published in 1959.[55]The novel is about a middle-aged man, Humbert Humbert, who grooms and abuses a twelve-year-old girl nicknamed Lolita.[119][120][121]Because the book focused on the controversial subject of pedophilia and underage sexuality, "Lolita" soon developed anegative connotationreferring to a girl inappropriately sexualized at a very young age[122]and associated with unacceptable sexual obsession.[123]In Japan, however, discourse around the novel instead built on the country's romanticized girls' culture (shōjo bunka), and came to be a positive synonym for the "sweet and adorable" adolescent girl, without a perverse or sexual connotation.[124]

Lolitawas made into amoviein 1962, which was sexualized and did not show the disinterest that Dolores (the character in Nabokov's novel to whom the nickname "Lolita" is given) had in sexuality.[125][126]A remake was made in1997.The 17-year-oldAmy Fisher,who attempted to murder the wife of her 35-year-old lover and whose crime was made into a film calledThe Amy Fisher Story(1993), was often called the Long Island Lolita. These films reinforced the sexual association.[127]Other racy connotations were created by Lolita Nylon advertisements (1964)[128]and other media that used Lolita in sexual contexts.[129]

Within Japanese culture the name refers to cuteness and elegance rather than to sexual attractiveness.[130][131]Many Lolitas in Japan are not aware that Lolita is associated with Nabokov's book and they are disgusted by it when they discover such a relation.[132]The Japanese sense of "Lolita" also appears inlolicon(from "Lolita complex" ),[133][134]a term associated with Russell Trainer's novelThe Lolita Complex(1966, translated 1969) and associated withotaku(anime and manga fan) culture. The concept and genre of media reflects a blend between the aesthetic ofkawaiiand sexual themes in fiction.[124]

Another common confusion is between the Lolita fashion style andcosplay.[135]Although both spread from Japan, they are different and should be perceived as independent from each other;[136]one is a fashion style while the other is role-play, with clothing and accessory being used to play a character. This does not exclude that there may be some overlap between members of the groups.[137]This can be seen atanime conventionssuch as the convention in Göteborg in which cosplay and Japanese fashion is mixed.[138]For some Lolitas, it is insulting if people label their outfit as a costume.[10][139]

[edit]
  • Hime Lolita
    Hime Lolita
  • Classic Lolita
    Classic Lolita
  • Shiro/White Lolita (left) and Kuro/Black Lolita (right)
    Shiro/White Lolita (left) and Kuro/Black Lolita (right)
  • Sweet Lolita (Nana Kitade)
    Sweet Lolita (Nana Kitade)
  • Sweet Lolita (Misako Aoki)
    Sweet Lolita (Misako Aoki)
  • Sweet Lolita
    Sweet Lolita
  • Sweet Lolita
    Sweet Lolita
  • Country Lolita (Nana Kitade)
    Country Lolita (Nana Kitade)
  • Pirate Lolita
    Pirate Lolita
  • Punk Lolita
    Punk Lolita
  • Old-School Lolita
    Old-School Lolita
  • Wa-Lolita with characteristics of Guro Lolita (eyepatch)
    Wa-Lolita with characteristics of Guro Lolita (eyepatch)
  • Ouji (a similar fashion with a more masculine appearance)
    Ouji (a similar fashion with a more masculine appearance)
  • Gothic Lolita
    Gothic Lolita
  • Gothic Lolita
    Gothic Lolita
  • Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (left) and Gothic Lolita (right)
    Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (left) and Gothic Lolita (right)
  • Qi Lolita (Chinese/Cheongsam inspired Lolita fashion)
    Qi Lolita (Chinese/Cheongsaminspired Lolita fashion)
  • Others Chinese style Lolita
    Others Chinese style Lolita

See also

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References

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Citations

[edit]
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  2. ^Monden 2008
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  9. ^Berry 2017,p. 9
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  21. ^abHardy Bernal, Kathryn A. (2019).Lolita Latina: an examination of Gothic and Lolita Style in the Mexican environment: a thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Visual and Material Culture, College of Creative Arts, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand(Thesis). Massey University.Archivedfrom the original on 17 May 2021.Retrieved18 May2021.
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  132. ^Carriger, Michelle Liu (2019).""Maiden's Armor": Global Gothic Lolita Fashion Communities and Technologies of Girly Counteridentity ".Theatre Survey.60:122–146.doi:10.1017/S0040557418000522.S2CID166076744.
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  139. ^Gatlin 2014,p. 30

General references

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Further reading and documentaries

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