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Homburg hat

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Winston Churchillwearing a homburg hat
Konrad AdenauerandWilly Brandtwearing homburg hats

Ahomburgis asemi-formalhatof furfelt,characterized by a single dent running down the centre of the crown (called a "gutter crown" ), a wide silkgrosgrainhatband ribbon, a flat brim shaped in a "pencil curl", and a ribbon-bound trim about the edge of the brim. It is traditionally offered in black or grey.

The name comes fromBad HomburginHesse,in theGerman Empire,from where it originated ashuntingheadgear. It was popularised in the late 19th century by thePrince of Wales,the future KingEdward VII,as a less formal alternative to the prevalenttop hatalong with thebowler hatand theboater hat.The original homburg conceived in the 19th century was of slightly more generous proportions than seen in 21st-century versions.[1]Although the homburg is traditionally associated with semi-formal wear, it has been extensively applied also toinformal attire.[2]

As with other hats, it largely fell out of everyday use ofWestern dress codesfor men in the 1960s.

Use[edit]

The homburg was popularised in the 1890s by the futureEdward VIIafter he visitedBad HomburginHesse,Germany,and brought back a hat of this style.[3]He was flattered when his hat style was mimicked, and at times he insisted on being copied.[4]

Anthony Edenmade the black homburg so fashionable in the 1930s that it became known as "theAnthony Eden hat"onSavile RowinLondon.[5]At his1953 inauguration,Dwight D. Eisenhowerbroke with tradition by wearing a black homburg instead of atop hat.He also wore a homburg at hissecond inauguration,[6]a hat that took three months to craft and was dubbed the "international homburg" by hatters, since workers from ten countries participated in its making.[7]

Like other formal Western male headgear, the homburg ceased to be as common in the 21st century as it once was.Al Pacinogained some renewed fame for the homburg by wearing a grey one in the filmThe Godfather,for which reason the hat is sometimes called a "Godfather".[8]SomeOrthodox Jewishrabbiswear black homburgs to therekel,though this practice is also in decline. The homburg was always considered to be more traditional and distinguished than thefedora.

It was sometimes jocularly referred to as a "hamburger", notably by actorEdward Brophyin the 1958 filmThe Last Hurrah.

In Italy it is known as a Lobbia, fromCristiano Lobbia[it]who famously was wearing one when he was assaulted.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^Kilgour, Ruth Edwards (1958).A Pageant of Hats Ancient and Modern.R. M. McBride Company.
  2. ^"Hat Museum Bad Homburg".Retrieved28 July2019.
  3. ^Chico, Beverly (3 October 2013).Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia.ABC-CLIO. p. 245.ISBN978-1-61069-063-8.
  4. ^Donaldson, Frances (1974).Edward VIII.Weidenfeld & Nicolson, p. 42.
  5. ^Graves, Robert; Hodge, Alan (1994).The Long Week End: A Social History of Great Britain, 1918-1939.Norton. p. 364.ISBN978-0-393-31136-5.
  6. ^"Eisenhower Second Inaugural Speech".CBS News.Retrieved27 March2019.
  7. ^Wilcox, R. Turner (2013) [1959].The Mode in Hats and Headdress: A Historical Survey with 198 Plates.Dover Publications. p. 333.ISBN978-0-486-31830-1.
  8. ^Kramer, Johnny (29 August 2008)."The Courage to Wear Hats".LewRockwell.Retrieved20 March2014.

External links[edit]