Italian wine

TuscanChiantiin a traditionalfiasco

Italian wine(Italian:vino italiano) is produced in everyregion of Italy.Italy is the country with the widest variety of indigenousgrapevinein the world,with an area of 702,000 hectares (1.73 million acres) under vineyard cultivation,as well as theworld's second largest wine producerand the largest exporter as of 2023.Contributing 49.8 millionhlof wine in 2022, Italy accounted for over 19.3% of global production, ahead ofFrance(17.7%) andSpain(13.8%);the following year, production decreased by 11.5 million hl, and Italy was surpassed by France.Italian wine is also popular domestically among Italians, who consume a yearly average of 46.8 litres per capita, ranking third in world wine consumption.

The origins ofvine-growingandwinemakingin Italy has been illuminated by recent research, stretching back even before thePhoenician,EtruscansandGreeksettlers, who produced wine in Italy beforethe Romans planted their own vineyards.The Romans greatly increased Italy's viticultural area using efficient viticultural and winemaking methods.

History

Vineyards in Langhe and Montferrat, Piedmont,the official name of aUNESCOWorld Heritage Sitecomprising "five distinct wine-growing areas with outstanding landscapes" and theCastle of Grinzane Cavourin theregionofPiedmont,Italy

Vines have been cultivated from the wildVitis viniferagrape for millennia in Italy. It was previously believed that viticulture had been introduced intoSicilyand southern Italy by theMycenaeans,as winemaking traditions are known to have already been established in Italy by the time thePhoenicianandGreekcolonists arrived on Italy's shores around 1000–800 BC.However, archeological discoveries onMonte Kronioin 2017 revealed that viticulture in Sicily flourished at least as far back as 4000 BC — some 3,000 years earlier than previously thought.Also on the peninsula, traces of Bronze Age and even Neolithic grapevine management and small-scale winemaking might suggest earlier origins than previously thought.

Underancient Romelarge-scale, slave-runplantationssprang up in many coastal areas of Italy and spread to such an extent that, in AD 92,Emperor Domitianwas forced to destroy a great number of vineyards in order to free up fertile land for food production.

A typical Italian vineyard scene, with vines growing alongside olive trees

During this time,viticultureoutside of Italy was prohibited under Roman law. Exports to the provinces were reciprocated in exchange for more slaves, especially fromGaul.Trade was intense with Gaul, according toPliny,because the inhabitants tended to drink Italian wine unmixed and without restraint.Although unpalatable to adults, it was customary, at the time, for young people to drink wine mixed with a good proportion of water.

As the laws on provincial viticulture were relaxed, vast vineyards began to flourish in the rest of Europe, especially Gaul (present-day France) andHispania.This coincided with the cultivation of new vines, such as biturica, an ancestor of theCabernets.These vineyards became so successful that Italy ultimately became an import centre for provincial wines.

Depending on the vintage, modern Italy is the world's largest or second-largest wine producer. In 2005, production was about 20% of the global total, second only to France, which produced 26%. In the same year, Italy's share in dollar value of table wine imports into the U.S. was 32%, Australia's was 24%, and France's was 20%. Along with Australia, Italy's market share has rapidly increased in recent years.

Italian appellation system

DOCG and DOClabels on two Italian wine bottles

In 1963, the first official Italian system of classification of wines was launched. Since then, several modifications and additions to the legislation have been made, including a major modification in 1992. The last modification, which occurred in 2010, established four basic categories which are consistent with the latestEuropean Union wine regulations(2008–09). The Italian Ministry of Agriculture (MIPAAF) regularly publishes updates to the official classification.The categories, from the bottom to the top level, are:

• Vini da tavola( "table wines"). At the lowest level are table wines (VdT).VdT wines are mandatory to include on the label the production batch, the volume of the container, the bottler's data, the place of bottling and vinification (if different places take place), the alcohol content, the gasification (if existing), the phrase "contains sulphites" only if the threshold of 10mg/L ofsulfur dioxideis exceeded.The specification of the color is optional, while the mention of the grape variety is not foreseen.
• Vini IGT( "typical geographical indication wines"). IGT wines comply with European Community regulation Nr.823 of 1987.Indication of the grape variety, production year and production area are optional.
• Vini DOC( "controlled designation of origin wines"). In addition to what is foreseen for IGT wines, the labels of DOC wines must specify the production areas more precisely.These wines cannot be produced with grapes intended for IGT wines, and must necessarily be subjected to chemical-physical and organoleptic analyzes during the production phase.The DOC recognition is exclusively reserved for wines produced in areas recognized as IGT for at least five years.The sub-areas where they are produced can optionally be mentioned on the label.On the label it is possible to mention further characteristics of the wine (e.g. classic, superior). The year of production must be mentioned on the label.
• Vini DOCG( "controlled and guaranteed designation of origin wines"). DOCG wines are subject to more restrictive regulations than those of DOC wines.The DOCG denomination is applied only to wines that have been recognized as DOC for at least seven years and are of particular quality.During bottling, chemical-physical and organoleptic analysis is mandatory, batch by batch, and the individual bottles are marked with a control band placed in such a way as to be damaged when the bottle is opened.

Geographical characteristics

Wine barrels inSicily

Important wine-relevant geographic characteristics of Italy include:

• The extensive latitudinal range of the country permits wine growing from theAlpsin the north to almost-within-sight ofAfricain the south.
• The fact that Italy is apeninsulawith a long shoreline contributes to moderating climate effects to coastal wine regions.
• Italy's mountainous and hilly terrain provides a variety of altitudes and climate and soil conditions for grape growing.

Italian wine areas

The main wine production areas in Italy, with the wine-growing areas, the main vines (the native ones in italics) and the main wines produced:

Region	Wine-growing region	Main grape varieties	Main wines
Abruzzo			Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Aosta Valley			Valle d'Aosta DOC
Apulia	Monti Dauni Salento	Nero di Troia	Primitivo di Manduria
Basilicata		Vulture	Aglianico del Vulture
Friuli-Venezia Giulia	Gorizia Hills Carso		Collio Goriziano
Lazio	Frascati		Frascati DOC
Lombardy	Valtellina		Sforzato di Valtellina Valtellina superiore
	Franciacorta		Franciacorta DOCG
	Oltrepò Pavese	Riesling Syrah
Piedmont	Langhe	Nebbiolo Arneis	Barbaresco Barolo Langhe Arneis
	Roero	Barbera	Roero Arneis
	Montferrat	Dolcetto	Barbera del Monferrato
		Grignolino
		Pelaverga	Verduno Pelaverga
			Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato
		Cortese	Gavi
	Canavese	Erbaluce	Erbaluce di Caluso Canavese bianco
			Dolcetto di Dogliani
Tuscany	Chianti	Sangiovese	Chianti Chianti Superiore
Umbria	Montefalco		Montefalco Sagrantino
Sardinia	Terralba Oristano Bosa	Bovale	Bovale Vermentino Malvasia
Veneto	Colline del Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene	Glera	Prosecco
	Valpolicella	Corvina Corvinone Rondinella	Amarone della Valpolicella Valpolicella Ripasso

Italian grape varieties

See also:List of Italian grape varieties

Italy is the country with the widest variety of indigenousgrapevinein the world.Italy's Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry (MIPAAF), has documented over 350 grapes and granted them "authorized" status. There are more than 500 other documented varieties in circulation as well. The following is a list of the most common and important of Italy's many grape varieties.

Bianco (White)

Trebbianograpes in theMarcheregion

A bottle ofProseccodi Conegliano spumanteextra dry and a glass of Proseccofrizzante,which stops forming bubbles soon after it is poured

• Arneis:a variety from Piedmont, which has been grown there since the 15th century.
• Catarratto:common inSicilyand the most widely planted white variety inSalaparuta.
• Fiano:grown on the southwest coast of Italy.
• Friulano:a variety also known as Sauvignon Vert or Sauvignonasse, it yields one of the most typical wines of Friuli. The wine was previously known as Tocai but the old name was prohibited by the European Court of Justice to avoid confusion with theTokaydessert wine from Hungary.
• Garganega:the main grape variety for wines labelled Soave and Custoza, this is a dry white wine from the Veneto wine region of Italy. It is popular in northeast Italy around the city of Verona. Currently, there are over 3,500 distinct producers of Soave.
• Greco:grown on the southwest coast of Italy.
• Malvasia bianca:a white variety that occurs throughout Italy. It has manyclones and mutations.
• Moscato blanc:grown mainly in Piedmont, it is mainly used in the slightly-sparkling (frizzante), semi-sweet Moscato d'Asti. Not to be confused withMoscato GialloandMoscato Rosa,two varietals that are grown in Trentino Alto-Adige.
• Nuragus:an ancient Sardinian variety found in southern Sardegna, producing light and tart wines usually consumed as aperitifs.
• Passerina:mainly derives from Passerina grapes (it may even be produced purely with these), plus a minimum percentage of other white grapes and may be still, sparkling orpassito.The still version has an acidic profile, which is typical of these grapes.
• Pecorino:native to Marche and Abruzzo, it is used in the Falerio dei Colli Ascolani and Offida DOC wines. It is low-yielding but will ripen early and at high altitudes. Pecorino wines have a rich, aromatic character.
• Pigato:an acidic varietyfrom Liguriathat is vinified to pair with seafood.
• Pinot grigio:a commercial grape (known asPinot Grisin France), its wines are characterized by crispness and cleanness. The wine can range from mild to full-bodied.
• Ribolla Gialla:a Greek variety introduced by the Venetians that now makes its home in Friuli.
• Trebbiano:this is the most widely planted white varietal in Italy. It is grown throughout the country, with a special focus on the wines from Abruzzo and from Lazio, includingFrascati.Trebbiano from producers such as Valentini have been known to age for 15+ years. It is known asUgni blancin France.
• Verdicchioor Trebbiano di Lugana: this is grown in the areas of Castelli di Jesi and Matelica in the Marche region and gives its name to the varietal white wine made from it. The name comes from "verde" (green).
• Vermentino:this is widely planted in Sardinia and is also found in Tuscan and Ligurian coastal districts. The wines are a popular accompaniment to seafood.

Other important whites include Carricante, Coda de Volpe, Cortese,Falanghina,Grechetto,Grillo,Inzolia,Picolit,Traminer,Verduzzo,andVernaccia.

Rosso (red)

Sangiovesevineyards in theVal d'Orcia,withMonte Amiatain the background, in theTuscanyregion

Nebbiolovineyards inAlba,in thePiedmontregion

AMontepulciano d'Abruzzowine made from theMontepulciano grape,in theAbruzzoregion

• Aglianico:considered to be one of the three greatest Italian varieties withSangioveseandNebbiolo,and sometimes called "The Barolo of the South" (il Barolo del Sud) due to its ability to produce fine wines.It is primarily grown inBasilicataandCampaniato produce DOCG wines,Aglianico del Vulture SuperioreandTaurasi.
• Barbera:the most widely grown red wine grape of thePiedmontand southernLombardyregions, the largest plantings of Barbera are found near the towns ofAsti,Alba,andPavia.In the Asti region, Barbera grapes are used in making "Barbera d'Asti Superiore", which may be aged in Frenchbarriquesto becomeNizza,a quality wine aimed at the international market. The vine has bright cherry-coloured fruit, and its wine is acidic with a dark colour.
• Corvina:along with the varietiesRondinellaandMolinara,this is the principal grape which makes the famous wines of the Veneto:ValpolicellaandAmarone.Valpolicella wine has dark cherry fruit and spice. After the grapes undergopassito(a drying process), the wine is now called Amarone, and is high in alcohol (16% and up) and characterized by raisin, prune, and syrupy fruits. Some Amarones can age for 40+ years and command spectacular prices. The same method used for Amarone is used for Recioto, the oldest wine produced in this area, but the difference is that Recioto is a sweet wine.
• Dolcetto:a grape that grows alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo in Piedmont, its name means 'little sweet one', referring not to the taste of the wine. Flavours of concord grape, wild blackberries, and herbs permeate the wine.
• Malvasia nera:red Malvasia variety from Piedmont. A sweet and perfumed wine, sometimes pronounced in thepassitostyle.
• Montepulciano:not to be confused with the Tuscan town ofMontepulciano,it is the most widely planted grape on the opposite coast inAbruzzo.Its wines develop silky plum-like fruit notes, friendly acidity, and light tannins.
• Nebbiolo:the noblest of Italy's varieties. The name (meaning "little fog" ) refers to the autumn fog that blankets most of Piedmont where Nebbiolo is chiefly grown, and where it achieves the most successful results. A difficult grape variety to cultivate, it produces the most renownedBaroloandBarbaresco,made in the province of Cuneo, along with the lesser-knownGhemmeandGattinara,made in the provinces of Novara and Vercelli respectively, and Sforzato, Inferno and Sassella made inValtellina.
• Negroamaro:the name literally means 'black bitter'. A widely planted grape with its concentration in the region of Puglia, it is the backbone of theSalice Salentino.
• Nero d'Avola:this native varietal wine ofSicilyhas dark fruit notes and strong tannins.
• Primitivo:a red grape found in southern Italy, most notably inApulia.Primitivo ripens early and thrives in warm climates, where it can achieve very high alcohol levels.
• Sagrantino:a rare native of Umbria, as of 2010, it is planted on only 994 hectares (2,460 acres).Montefalco SagrantinoandMontefalco Rossowines can also age for many years.
• Sangiovese:it is most notably the predominant grape variety inChiantiand Chianti Classico, and the sole ingredient inBrunello di Montalcino.Sangiovese is also a major constituent of dozens of other denominations, such asVino Nobile di Montepulciano,Rosso di Montalcinoand Montefalco Rosso, as well as the basis of many of the "Super Tuscans", where it is blended with three of the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot,andCabernet Franc) and typically aged in French oak barrels, resulting in a wine primed for the international market in the style of a typical California cabernet: oaky, high-alcohol, and a ripe, fruit-forward profile.

Other major red varieties areCannonau,Ciliegiolo,Gaglioppo,Lagrein,Lambrusco,Monica,Nerello Mascalese,Pignolo,Refosco,Schiava,Schioppettino,Teroldego,andUva di Troia.

Super Tuscans

Tuscanwine

The termSuper Tuscan(mostly used in theEnglish-speaking worldand less known in Italy)describes any wine (mostly red, but sometimes also white) produced inTuscanythat generally does not adhere to the traditional local DOC orDOCGregulations. As a result, Super Tuscans are usually ToscanaIGTwines, while others areBolgheriDOC,a designation of origin rather open to international grape varieties. Traditional Tuscan DOC(G)s require that wines are made from native grapes and mostlySangiovese.While sometimes Super Tuscans are actually produced by Sangiovese alone, they are also often obtained by (1) blending Sangiovese with international grapes (such asCabernet Sauvignon,Merlot,Cabernet Franc,andSyrah) to produce red wines, (2) blending international grapes alone (especially classic Bordeaux grapes for reds;ChardonnayandSauvignon blancfor whites), or (3) using one single international variety.

Poggio Amorelli, a typical winery ofChianti region

Tignanello,one of the early Super Tuscans

Although an extraordinary amount of wines claim to be "the first Super Tuscan", most would agree that this credit belongs toSassicaia,the brainchild of marcheseMario Incisa della Rocchetta,who planted Cabernet Sauvignon at hisTenuta San Guidoestate inBolgheriback in 1944. It was for many years the marchese's personal wine, until, starting with the 1968 vintage, it was released commercially in 1971.

In 1968 Azienda Agricola San Felice produced a Super Tuscan called Vigorello, and in the 1970s PieroAntinori,whose family had been making wine for more than 600 years, also decided to make a richer wine by eliminating the white grapes from the Chianti blend, and instead, addingBordeauxvarietals (namely, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). He was inspired by Sassicaia, of which he was given the sale agency by his uncleMario Incisa della Rocchetta.The result was one of the first Super Tuscans, which he namedTignanello,after the vineyard where the grapes were grown. What was formerly Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Tignanello, was pulled from the DOC in 1971, first eliminating the white grapes (then compulsory in Chianti DOC) and gradually adding French varieties. By 1975, Tignanello was made with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, and it remains so today.

Because these wines did not conform to strict DOC(G) classifications, they were initially labelled asvino da tavola(lit. 'table wine'), an old official category ordinarily reserved for lower quality wines. The creation of theindicazione geografica tipicacategory (technically indicating a level of quality between vino da tavola and DOC(G)) in 1992 and the DOCBolgherilabel in 1994 helped bring Super Tuscans "back into the fold" from a regulatory standpoint. Since the pioneering work of the Super Tuscans, there has been a rapid expansion in the production of high-quality wines throughout Italy that do not qualify for DOC or DOCG classification.

Wine guides

Many international wine guides and wine publications rate the most popular Italian wines. Among the Italian publications,Gambero Rossois probably the most influential. In particular, the wines that are annually given the highest rating of "three glasses" (Tre Bicchieri) attract much attention. Recently, other guides, such as Slow Wine, published by Slow Food Italia, and Bibenda, compiled by the Fondazione Italiana Sommelier, have also gained attention both among professionals and amateurs.

Vino cottoandvincotto

Ricottawithvincotto

Vino cotto(lit. 'cooked wine') is a form ofwinefrom theMarcheandAbruzzoregions ofcentral Italy.It is typically made by individuals for their own use as it cannot legally be sold as wine. The must, from any of several local varieties of grapes, is heated in acoppervessel where it is reduced in volume by up to a third before fermenting in old wooden barrels. It can be aged for years, barrels being topped up with each harvest. The Marche authorities have set down a specification for the method of production ofvino cotto.

Vincotto,typically fromBasilicataandApuliaregions, also starts as a cooked must but is notfermented,resulting in a sweet syrup suitable for the preparation of sweets and soft drinks. In Roman times it was known assapain Latin andepsimain Greek, the same names that are often used for it, respectively, in Italy and Cyprus.

See also

• History of Chianti
• List of Italian DOC wines
• List of Italian DOCG wines
• List of Italian IGT wines
• Old World wine

Further reading

• Emlyn Dodd, 'The Archaeology of Wine Production in Roman and pre-Roman Italy'.American Journal of Archaeology126.3: 443–480.https://doi.org/10.1086/719697.
• La Sicilia del Vino,di S. Barresi, E. Iachello, E. Magnano di San Lio, A. Gabbrielli, S. Foti, P. Sessa. Fotografia Giò Martorana, Giuseppe Maimone Editore, Catania 2003.
• Kerin O'Keefe,Brunello di Montalcino. Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy's Greatest Wines,University of California Press, 2012.ISBN9780520265646.
• Kerin O'Keefe,Barolo and Barbaresco. The King and Queen of Italian Wine,University of California Press, 2014.ISBN9780520273269.

External links

• Italian Wine Appellations,from the Italian Ministry of Agriculture (IT)
• National Registry of Grape Varieties,from the Italian Ministry of Agriculture (IT)