Jahanpanah
| Jahanpanah | |
|---|---|
Jahanpanah | |
 Bijaymandalin Jahanpanah, the fourth city of Medieval Delhi | |
  Location within Delhi | |
| General information | |
| Type | Forts,MosquesandTombs |
| Architectural style | Tughlaq |
| Location | South Delhi |
| Country | India |
| Coordinates | 28°31′16″N77°14′46″E/ 28.521°N 77.246°E |
| Current tenants | Ruins |
| Construction started | 1326 A.D. |
| Completed | 1327 A.D. |
| Client | Tughlaq Dynasty |
| Owner | Government Of Delhi |
| Technical details | |
| Floor area | Fort area -20 ha (49.4 acres) |
| References | |
| [1] | |
Jahanpanahwas the fourth medieval city ofDelhiestablished in 1326–1327 byMuhammad bin Tughlaq(1325–51), of theDelhi Sultanate.To address the constant threat of theMongols,Tughlaq built the fortified city of Jahanpanah (meaning in Persian: "Refuge of the World" ) subsuming the Adilabad fort that had been built in the 14th century and also all the establishments lying betweenQila Rai PithoraandSiri Fort.Neither the city nor the fort has survived. Many reasons have been offered for such a situation. One of which is stated as the idiosyncratic rule of Mohammed bin Tughlaq when inexplicably he shifted the capital toDaulatabadin theDeccanand came back to Delhi soon after.[1][2][3]
The ruins of the city's walls are even now discerned in the road between Siri toQutub Minarand also in isolated patches behind theIndian Institute of Technology(IIT), in Begumpur,Khirki Masjidnear Khirki village,Satpulaand many other nearby locations; at some sections, as seen at Satpula, the fort walls were large enough to have few inbuilt storerooms to stack provisions and armory. The mystery of the city's precincts (complex) has unfolded over the years with later day excavations revealing a large number of monuments in the villages and colonies ofSouth Delhi.Due to the compulsions of urban expansion of the Capital City of Delhi, Jahanpanah is now part of the upscale urban development of South Delhi. The village and the wealth of ruins scattered all around are now enclosed by South Delhi suburbs of Panchshil Park South,Malviya Nagar,Adchini, theAurobindo Ashram,Delhi branch and other smaller housing colony developments. It is hemmed in the North–South direction between theOuter Ring Roadand theQutb Complexand on the east–west direction by theMehrauliroadand the Chirag Delhi road, withIndian Institute of Technologylocated on the other side of theMehrauliroad as an important landmark.[4][5][6]
Etymology
[edit]Jahanpanah'setymologyconsists of twoPersianwords, جهان ‘Jahan’, "the world", and پناه ‘panah’, "shelter", thus "Refuge of the World"
History
[edit]Mohammed bin Tughlaq, son ofGhiyasuddin Tughlaqwho builtTughlaqabad,constructed his new city of Jahanpanah between 1326 and 1327 by encircling the earlier cities of Siri andLal Kotwith 13 gates.[7]But what remains of the city and Adilabad fort are large ruins, which leave much ambiguity and conjectures regarding its physical status as to why and when it was built by Tughlaq. Some of the structures which have survived partially are the Bijay Mandal (that is inferred to have housed the Hazar Sutan Palace, now destroyed), Begumpur Mosque, Serai Shaji Mahal, Lal Gumbad, Baradari with other nearby structures and scattered swathes of rubble masonry walls. FromIbn Batuta’s chronicle of the period (he lived in Delhi from 1333–41) it is inferred that Lal Kot (Qutb complex) was then the urban area, Siri was the militarycantonmentand the remaining area consisted of hispalace(Bijaymandal) and other structures likemosques,etc.[5][8]
Ibn Batuta has reasoned that Muhammad Shah wished to see a unified city comprising Lal Kot, Siri, Jahanpanah and Tughlaqabad with one contiguous fortification encompassing them but cost considerations forced him to abandon the plan halfway. In his chronicle, Batuta also stated that the Hazar Sutan Palace (1000 pillared palace), built outside the Siri fort limits but within the Jahanpanah City area, was the residence of the Tughlaq.[5][9]
Hazar Sutan Palace was located within the fortified area of the Jahnapanah in Bijaya Mandal (literal meaning in Hindi: 'victory platform'). The grand palace with its audience hall of the beautifully painted wooden canopy and columns is vividly described but it does no longer exists. The Fort acted as a safe haven for the people living betweenQila Rai Pithoraand Siri. Tughalqabad continued to act as Tughlaq’s centre of government until, for strange and inexplicable reasons, he shifted his capital toDaulatabad,however, he returned after a short period.[4]
Adilabad
[edit]
Adilabad, a fort of modest size, built on the hills to the south ofTughlaqabadwas provided with protective massive ramparts on its boundary around the city of Jahanpanah. The fort was much smaller than its predecessor fort, Tughlaqabad fort, but of similar design.Archaeological Survey of India(ASI) in its evaluation of the status of the fort for conservation has recorded that two gates,
one withbarbicansbetween twobastionson the south-east and another on the south-west. Inside, it, separated by abailey,is acitadelconsisting of walls, bastions and gates within which lay the palaces.[3][10]
The fort was also known as ‘Muhammadabad’, but inferred as a latter-day development.[4]The two gates on the southeast and southwest of Adilabad fort had chambers at the lower level while the east and west gates had grain bins and courtyards at the upper floors. The fortifications built, linking with the other two city walls, was 12 m (39.4 ft) in thickness and extended to a length of 8 km (5.0 mi). Another smaller fortress, called the Nai-ka-Kot (literally "Barber's fortress" ) was also built at a distance of about 700 m (2,296.6 ft) from Adilabad, with the citadel and army camps, which are now seen only in ruins.[11]
Tughlaq's primary attention to infrastructure, particularly of iron supply to the city, was also well thought out. A structure (weiror tank) with seven sluices (Hindi:Satpula,meaning "seven bridges" ) was built on a stream that flowed through the city. This structure called theSatpulais still existing (though non–functional) nearKhirki villageon the boundary walls of Jahanpanah. Similar structures had also been built at Tughlaqabad and Delhi inHauz Khas Complex,thus covering the water supply needs of entire population of Jahanpanah.[12]
Khirki Mosquelies in Khirki village.
Begampur Mosque
[edit]Now, remnants of the city lie scattered in Begumpur village, as a mute reminder of its ancient glory. The BegumpurMosque,a vestige of the old city, of overall layout plan of 90 m × 94 m (295.3 ft × 308.4 ft) size with the innercourtyardmeasuring 75 m × 80 m (246.1 ft × 262.5 ft), is said to be patterned on an Iranian design planned by theIranianarchitectZahir al-Din al-Jayush. A majestic building in the heart of the city with pride of place played a pivotal role in serving as amadrasa,an administrative centre with thetreasuryand a mosque of large proportions serving as a social community hub surrounded by a market area. It has an unusual layout with three arches covered passages with a "three by eight" deep nine-bay prayer hall on the west. The construction of this mosque is credited to two sources. One view is that it was built byKhan-i-Jahan Maqbul Tilangani,prime minister duringFeroz Shah Tughlaq’s rule, who was also a builder of six moremasjids(two of them in the close vicinity). The other view is that it was built by Tughlaq because of its proximity to Bijay Mandal and could probably be dated to 1351 A.D., the year Tughlaq died here. In support of the second view, it is said that Ibn Batuta, the chronicler of the period (till his departure from Delhi in 1341 A.D.) had not recorded this monument. The Mosque considered an architectural masterpiece (see pictures in the gallery) has three gates, one in each of the three covered passages, in north, east (main gate) and south. The west wall which has themihrab,has Toghluqi-style taperingminaretsflanking the central high opening covered by a big dome. The entire passageway of the west wall has twenty-five arched openings. The mihrab wall depicts five projections.
The prayer hall has modest decorative carvings but the columns and walls are bland. The eastern gate approach is from the road level up a flight of steps to negotiate the raised plinth on which this unique mosque has been built with afour-iwan layout.Stone chajjas oreavescan also be seen on all the fourarcades.The northern entry with 1 m (3.3 ft) raised entrance, probably linked the mosque to the Bijayamandal Palace. The stucco plastering work on the mosque walls has lasted for centuries and even now shows some tiles fixed on them at a few locations. The mosque was under occupation during Jahanpanah's existence till the 17th century. In the later period, encroachers had occupied the mosque but were cleared by theArchaeological Survey of India(ASI) in 1921. A shuttered by lane entry from the north has been interpreted as an approach that was used by the womenfolk of the Sultan's family for attending prayers in the mosque.[4][5][6][11]
Bijay Mandal
[edit]Bijay Mandal is a building with a layout plan of 74 m (242.8 ft)x82 m (269.0 ft) dimensions, with a well proportioned squaredome.It cannot be categorized as atoweror a palace.[5][13]It is a typical Toghlaqi structure with an octagonal plan built inrubblemasonry(with massive battered sloping walls on east, west and southern directions) on a raised platform with doorways in each cardinal direction. The purpose of this unusual structure and the ruins of the Sar Dara Palace was described by Ibn Battuta as the palace with multiple chambers and the large public audience hall as the famed Hazar Sutan Palace. It was also interpreted as serving as an observation tower to monitor the activities of his troops. The ambiance of the place presented it as a place to relax and enjoy the scenic view of the environs. The inclined path around the monument was a walkway leading to the apartments of the Sultan. Two large openings in the living rooms of the floor were inferred as leading to thevaultsor the treasury. On the level platform, outside the building in front of the apartment rooms, small holes equally spaced are seen, which have been inferred to be holes used to fix wooden pillars to hold a temporaryshamiana(pavilion) or cover. The process of ushering people into the presence of the Sultan was devious and formal involving entry through semi–public places to private chambers to the audience hall. The debate on whether the Hazara Sutan Palace cited as existing duringAlauddin Khaljireign and also during Tughlaq's time are one and the same palace has not been conclusive. A plausible hypothesis is that the stone hall of the palace was built by Alauddin Khalji while the tower adjoining the stone buildings was surely built by Mohammed bin Tughlaq.[3][4][5][12][13]
Archaeological excavations carried out by theArchaeological Survey of Indiaunearthed treasures from the vaults in the buildings, which date the occupation of this monument during Feroz Shah's reign and also by Sheikh Hasan Tahir (a saint) duringSikander Lodi’s rule at the beginning of the 16th century. Also, excavations done in 1934 have revealed wooden pillar bases attributed to the Hazar Sutan Palace.[4][5][13] Within the close precincts of the Bijay Mandal, a domed building is seen which has a unique architectural façade of two openings on each of its three sides, interpreted as an annex to another building (based on underground passages seen in the adjoining structure). However, the purpose for which this dome was built is not known.[5]
- Kalusarai Masjid
Kalusarai Masjid has located 500 m (1,640.4 ft) to the north of the Bijaymandal but it is in a highly dilapidated state (pictured) needing urgent attention for restoration in view of its heritage monument status. At present, it is occupied as a residential complex by a few families. The Masjid was built by the famous builder of MosquesKhan-i-Jahan Maqbul Tilangani,Prime Minister during Feroz Shah Tughlaq's reign, as one of his seven mosques; built in the same architectural style as the other six built by him. But even now the visible decorations of the mihrab appear to be more intricate than in his other mosques. When built with rubble masonry and plastered, the mosque had seven arched openings as the frontage, three bays depth-wise and crowned by a sequence of low domes in typical Tughlaqi architectural style.[4][5][14]
Serai Shaji Mahal
[edit]Further to the east of BegumpurMasjid,in the Serai Shahji village,Mughalperiod buildings are seen of which the Serai Shaji Mahal is a distinguishing monument. The area surrounding this is scattered with decrepit gates, graves and a large slum area. A little distance from this place is the tomb ofShiekh Farid Murtaza Khan,who duringEmperor Akbar’s period, was credited with building a number of Serai's, a mosque andFaridabadvillage, which is now the present–day large city inHaryana.[4][5]
Other notable structures
[edit]Other notable structures in the Jahanpanah's ambit of 20 ha (49.4 acres) area in close vicinity of the present day Panchshila Public School are the following:[1][4][5]
The Lal Gumbad was built as a tomb for Shaikh Kabbiruddin Auliya (1397), asufisaintwho lived in the 14th century as a disciple of Sufi saint Shaikh Raushan Chiragh–i–Delhi. The dome tomb was built with redsandstone.It is considered to be a small size replica of theGhiyasuddin Tughlaq’sTombinTughlaqabad.[15]The gateway to the tomb has a pointed arch with marble bands. It is also called the Rakabwala Gumbad becausedacoitshad stolen thefinialon the roof of the tomb by climbing up over the iron rungs (called 'Rakab') on its western wall. Apart from these structures, the four walls of a mosque also are within the compound wall of the tomb.
The Sadhana Enclave are features Baradari an arched hall. Thought to have been built in the 14th century or 15th century, it is in a fairly well-preserved condition.[16]A Lodi period tomb is also seen nearby.
Further away from the Sadhana enclave on its opposite side, in Shiekh Serai, three tombs are noted of which only one is well preserved, the squared domed tomb of Sheikh Alauddin (1541–42).[17]The tomb building is raised on twelve columns with perforated screens on the façade has a large dome, creating a drum with sixteen faces. The ceiling of the tomb is well decorated with medallions in plaster on thespandrelofarchesand within the parapets amerlondesign.
Conservation measures
[edit]Archaeological excavations were done byASIin part of the fort walls at its junction with the eastern wall ofQila Rai Pithora.The excavations revealed rough and small stones in the foundations followed by anashlarface in the exterior wall above ground. The ASI is presently involved in conservation activities of the wall, providing railings, environmental improvements and lighting of the area, at a cost of Rs 15 lakhs (US$30,000).[18]
Modern location
[edit]Jahanpanah's ruins are mostly concentrated inSouth Delhiin the present suburbs of Kalu Sarai, Bijaymandal, Adchini, Begumpur village,IIT,Delhicrossing, Aurobindo Marg, Malviya Nagar, Panchsheel Enclave South, Sadhana Enclave, Press Enclave Road, in the urban village of Chirag Delhi, Tuhghlaqabad and Qutub Minar. The ancient city walls are seen at a few locations, such as east of Khirki village nearSatpula.The main approach road fromConnaught Placeto Qutub Minar complex passes through the IIT crossing at a distance of 14.5 km (9.0 mi). The Outer Ring Road also crosses this road at IIT crossing. From this crossing, all the locations can be reached from the Aurobindo Marg diversion road next to the Essex Farms (opposite to IIT, Delhi).[5][18]
Gallery
[edit]
-
View of East gate entry from inside the courtyard of Begumpur Masjid -
Closer view of East gate of Begumpur Masjid -
Begampur Masjid West wall and North wall -
Begumpur Masjid Courtyard and the small domes on the roof -
Begumpur Masjid Mihrabs under main west wall -
Baradari -
Wall mosque near Lal Gumbad
References
[edit]- ^abcMadan Mohan."Historical Information System for Surveying Monuments and Spatial Data Modeling for Conservation of Cultural Heritage in Delhi"(PDF).Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 2 February 2013.Retrieved25 May2009.
- ^Aitken, Bill (2001) [2002].Speaking Stones: World Cultural Heritage Sites in India.Eicher Goodearth Limited. p. 25.ISBN81-87780-00-2.Retrieved25 May2009.
"Whatever the cause of Tughalqabad's demise, Ghiyasuddin's successor Mohammed Bin Tughlaq returned to the original Rajput site. However, the Mongol threatened again and the new ruler decided to wall Qila Rai Pihora, Siri and the suburbs between them to build his Jahanpnah or" Refuge of the World "
{{cite book}}:|work=ignored (help) - ^abc"Adilabad - The Fourth Fort of Delhi".Archived fromthe originalon 2 January 2008.Retrieved19 May2009.
- ^abcdefghiY.D.Sharma (2001).Delhi and its Neighbourhood.New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India. pp. 25 & 73. Archived fromthe originalon 31 August 2005.Retrieved24 April2009.
{{cite book}}:|work=ignored (help) - ^abcdefghijklLucy Peck (2005).Delhi - A thousand years of Building.New Delhi: Roli Books Pvt Ltd. pp. 58–69.ISBN81-7436-354-8.
{{cite book}}:|work=ignored (help) - ^ab"Begumpuri Masjid".Archived fromthe originalon 5 July 2009.Retrieved24 May2009.
- ^Verma, Amrit (1985).Forts of India.New Delhi: The Director of Publication Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Government of India. p. 7.ISBN81-230-1002-8.
- ^"Forts of Delhi".Retrieved19 May2009.
- ^Peter Jackson (2003).The Delhi Sultanate: A Political and Military History.Cambridge University Press. pp. 259–260.ISBN9780521543293.Retrieved23 May2009.
{{cite book}}:|work=ignored (help) - ^"Commonwealth Games-2010, Conservation, Restoration and Upgradation of Public Amenities at Protected Monuments"(PDF).Adilabad Fort.Archaeological Survey of India, Delhi Circle. 2006. p. 65. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 11 October 2011.Retrieved29 May2009.
- ^abAnthony Welch; Howard Crane (1983)."The Tughluqs: Master Builders of the Delhi Sultanate"(PDF).Muqarnas.1.Brill: 129–130.doi:10.2307/1523075.JSTOR1523075.Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 13 August 2016.Retrieved13 August2016.
- ^abJames D. Tracy, ed. (2000). "Chapter 9 Delhi walled: Changing boundaries".City Walls: The Urban Enceinte in Global Perspective.Cambridge University Press. pp. 264–268.ISBN978-0-521-65221-6.
- ^abcAnthony Welch; Howard Crane (1983)."The Tughluqs: Master Builders of the Delhi Sultanate"(PDF).Muqarnas.1.Brill: 148–149.doi:10.2307/1523075.JSTOR1523075.Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 13 August 2016.Retrieved13 August2016.
- ^"Kalu Sarai Masjid".Archived fromthe originalon 6 July 2009.Retrieved24 May2009.
- ^Lucy Peck (2005).Delhi - A thousand years of Building.New Delhi: Roli Books Pvt Ltd. p. 63.ISBN81-7436-354-8.Archived fromthe originalon 6 October 2008.Retrieved19 May2009.
The Lal Gumbad itself is very similar to the tomb of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq (died 1324), although it was built much later in the century for Shiekh Kabiruddin Auliya, a disciple of Chiragh Delhi
{{cite book}}:|work=ignored (help) - ^"Baradari at Sadhana Enclave".Government of NCT of Delhi. Archived fromthe originalon 17 April 2008.Retrieved14 July2009.
- ^Richi, Verma (14 July 2009)."13 structures notified by archaeology dept".The Times of India.Archivedfrom the original on 24 October 2012.Retrieved22 July2009.
- ^ab"Commonwealth Games-2010, Conservation, Restoration and Upgradation of Public Amenities at Protected Monuments"(PDF).Jahapanah Wall.Archaeological Survey of India, Delhi Circle. 2006. p. 54. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 11 October 2011.Retrieved29 May2009.
