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Jammu division

Coordinates:32°44′N74°52′E/ 32.73°N 74.87°E/32.73; 74.87
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Jammu division
Region administered by India as aAdministrative division
Map
Interactive map of Jammu division
A map of the Jammu division (neon blue) of the Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir (shaded in tan) in the disputed Kashmir region.[1]
A map of the Jammu division (neon blue) of the Indian-administeredJammu and Kashmir(shaded intan) in the disputedKashmirregion.[1]
Coordinates:32°44′N74°52′E/ 32.73°N 74.87°E/32.73; 74.87
Administering countryIndia
Union territoryJammu and Kashmir
CapitalSrinagar(summer)
Jammu(winter)
Government
• TypeDivision
Area
• Total26,293 km2(10,152 sq mi)
Population
• Total5,350,811
• Density200/km2(530/sq mi)
Languages
• OfficialDogri,Urdu,Hindi,Kashmiri,English[2][3]
• SpokenDogri,Kashmiri,Pahari-Pothwari,Punjabi,Hindi,Urdu,Gojri
Time zoneUTC+5:30(IST)
Websitehttp://divcomjammu.gov.in/

TheJammu division(/ˈdʒæmuː,ˈdʒʌm-/ⓘ;Dogri pronunciation:[dʒəmːuː]) is arevenue and administrative divisionof the Indian-administeredJammu and Kashmirin the disputedKashmirregion.[1]It is bordered by theKashmir divisionto the north. It consists of thedistrictsofJammu,Doda,Kathua,Ramban,Reasi,Kishtwar,Poonch,Rajouri,UdhampurandSamba.Most of the land is hilly or mountainous, including thePir Panjal Rangewhich separates it from the Kashmir Valley and part of the Great Himalayas in the eastern districts of Doda and Kishtwar. Its principal river is theChenab.

Jammucity is the largest city in Jammu and the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir. It is also known as "City of Temples" as it has many temples andshrines,with glitteringshikharssoaring into the sky, which dot the city's skyline.

Home to some of the most revered Hindu shrines, such asVaishno Devi,Jammu is a majorpilgrimagecentre for Hindus. A majority of Jammu's population practicesHinduism,[4]whileIslamandSikhismenjoy a strong cultural heritage in the region.

History

[edit]
Lama dance at Jummoo

The hilly regions to the south and southwest of theKashmir Valleyformed theJammu Provinceof theprincely state of Jammu and Kashmir.During the declining years of theMughal Empire,the region comprised 22 hill states that emerged from the Mughal suzerainty. Hutchison and Vogel, who first studied these states, called them theDugar groupof states. (Dugar[5]is a medieval term with ancient formDurgaraand modern formDogra.) The state of Jammu is believed to have been the most prominent among the Dugar group, which they identified with the kingdom ofDurgara.

The termDurgarais attested in an 11th-century copper plate inscription fromChamba.The inscription refers to an attack on Chamba by the "Lord of Durgara" allied withSaumatikasand theKirasof Chamba. However, no kingdom by that name is mentioned in theRajatarangini.Durgaracould have been a reference toVallapura(modernBillawar) orBabbapura(modern Babor). Some scholars believe it to have been a regional or ethnic name current in the region.[6][7][8][9]

Jammu is mentioned by name in the chronicles ofTimur,who invaded Delhi in 1398 and returned toSamarkandvia Jammu. Raja Bhim Dev is prominently mentioned in the Delhi chronicles as a supporter ofMubarah Shah(r. 1421–1434) againstJasrat.Between 1423 and 1442, Jammu came under control of Jasrat (r. 1405–1442) whoconquered itafter killing his arch-enemy Bhim Dev in 1423. Later, Jasrat appointed Manik Dev (also known as Ajeo Dev) as vassal, and married his daughter.[10]In the early-16th-century Mughal chronicles ofBabur,Jammu is mentioned as a powerful state in the Punjab hills. EmperorAkbarbrought the hill kingdoms of the region under Mughal suzerainty, but the kings enjoyed considerable political autonomy. In addition to Jammu, other kingdoms of the region such asKishtwarandRajauriwere also prominently mentioned. It is evident that the Mughal empire treated these hill chiefs as allies and partners in the empire.[11]

After the decline of Mughal power in the 18th century, the Jammu state under Raja Dhruv Dev, of theJamuwal(orJamwal) family, asserted its supremacy among the Dugar states. Its ascent reached its peak under his successor Raja Ranjit Dev (r. 1728–1780), who was widely respected among the hill states.[12][13] Towards the end of Ranjit Dev's rule, the Sikh clans of Punjab (misls) gained ascendancy, and Jammu began to be contested by theBhangi,KanhaiyaandSukerchakiamisls.Around 1770, the Bhangimislattacked Jammu and forced Ranjit Dev to become a tributary. Brij Lal Dev, his successor, was defeated by the Sukerchakia chief Mahan Singh, who sacked Jammu and plundered it. Thus Jammu lost its supremacy over the surrounding country.[14]

In 1808, Jammu itself was annexed to theSikh EmpirebyMaharaja Ranjit Singh,the son of Mahan Singh.[15]

Gulab Singh and the Dogra dynasty

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Main article:Jammu and Kashmir (princely state)
Maharaja Gulab Singh,the founder of princely state of Jammu and Kashmir

After the Sikh conquest of Jammu,Gulab Singh,a descendant of Dhruv Dev via his third son, went on to enrol in the Sikh troops. He soon distinguished himself in battles and was awarded ajagirnear Jammu with an allowance to keep an independent force. After the conquest ofKishtwar(1821) and the subjugation ofRajouri,he was made a hereditary Raja of Jammu in 1822, personally anointed by Ranjit Singh. His brother Dhyan Singh receivedPoonchandChibhal,and Suchet SinghRamnagar.[16][17]

By 1827, Gulab Singh brought under his control all the principalities lying between Kashmir and Jammu.[18]Thus the entire Jammu province came under the control of the threeJamwalbrothers under the umbrella of the Sikh Empire.

After the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1839, the Sikh court fell into anarchy and palace intrigues took over. Gulab Singh's brothers Dhyan Singh and Suchet Singh, as well as his nephew Hira Singh, were murdered in the struggles. The relations between the Sikh court and Gulab Singh deteriorated.[19][20]During theFirst Anglo-Sikh War(1845–1846), Gulab Singh kept aloof. He was nevertheless invited to Lahore and installed as prime minister of the Sikh Empire. His actions as the Prime Minister were duplicitous and contributed to a Sikh defeat.[21]

The British decided to weaken the power of the Sikhs and set up Gulab Singh as a counterweight. Accordingly, they demanded a war indemnity from the Sikhs which included all of the hilly territory between theRaviandIndusrivers, and then transferred it to Gulab Singh, recognising him as an independent Maharaja. Gulab Singh paid 7.5 million Nanakshahee Rupees to the British in the transaction.[22]Thus the princely state ofJammu and Kashmircame into being, ruled by Gulab Singh and his descendants, known as theDogra dynasty.

During the Dogra rule, Jammu in the Jammu province and Srinagar in Kashmir province were both used as capitals, six months to a year each. Poonch and Chibhal were granted asjagirsto Dhyan Singh's surviving sons, Jawahir Singh and Moti Singh. However, Jawahir Singh got involved in conspiracies and was exiled to Punjab. Chibhal (Bhimber) thus reverted to Gulab Singh, while Poonch remained under the control of Moti Singh and his descendants under the suzerainty of Jammu and Kashmir.

Partition and accession

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Kashmir region divided across Pakistan, India and China
Main article:Kashmir conflict

During the partition of India, the ruler wasMaharaja Hari Singh.He, along with all the other princes, was given the choice of acceding to either India orPakistan,taking into consideration the geographical contiguity and the wishes of the population. The Maharaja chose not to accede to either dominion before the appointed date, citing the mixed religious composition of his state. This technical independence was short-lived as the Maharaja faced arebellion in the western districtsand a Pakistan-inspiredPashtun tribal invasion.Unable to withstand the assaults, the Maharajaacceded to Indiaon 26–27 October 1947. India airlifted troops to Kashmir to repel the raiders. However, major portions of the western districts of Muzaffarabad, Poonch, and Mirpurremained under the control of Pakistan.The remainder of the state was incorporated into India via theConstitution of India,which also provided autonomy to the state underArticle 370.

Geography and climate

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Jammu borders theKashmir Valleyto the north,Ladakhto the east, andPunjabandHimachal Pradeshto the south. In the west, theLine of Controlseparates Jammu fromPakistani-administeredKashmir(known asAzad Kashmirin Pakistan). In between Kashmir Valley to the north and the Daman Koh plains to the south, theShivalik Rangecomprises most of the region of Jammu. ThePir Panjal Range,the Trikuta Hills and the low-lyingTawi Riverbasin add diversity to the terrain of Jammu. The Pir Panjal range separates Jammu from the Kashmir Valley. Jammu region has eight geographical subregions Ravi-Tawi Kandi plains, Shiwaliks, Pir Panjal belt, Chenab Valley, Bhaderwah Valley, Gandoh Valley, Paddar Valley and Warwan-Marwah Valley.

The climate of the region varies with altitude. In and around Jammu city, the climate is similar to the nearby Punjab region: hot summers, rainy monsoon, and mildly cold and foggy winters. While Jammu city itself does not experience any snowfall, the higher hills and mountains are snow-capped in winter. People from all over India come toPatnitopmountain resort to enjoy the winter snows. The shrine ofVaishno Deviis covered with snow in the winter. TheBanihal Pass,which links the Jammu region to the Kashmir region, often experiences closure in the winter months due to extremely heavy snowfall.

Demographics

[edit]
See also:List of Scheduled Castes in Jammu and Kashmir

Religions in Jammu Division (2011)[23]

Hinduism(67.5%)
Islam(30%)
Sikhism(2%)
Christianity(0.3%)
Others (0.2%)
Not Stated (0.1%)
<div style= "border:solid transparent;background-color:initial;position:absolute;width:100px;line-height:0;

Jammu Division: mother-tongue of population, according to the 2011 Census.[24]

Dogri (46.59%)
Pahari (13.23%)
Gojri (13.07%)
Kashmiri (11.07%)
Others (5.45%)
Hindi (3.46%)
Punjabi (3.12%)
Bhadrawahi (1.83%)
Siraji (1.44%)
Urdu (0.18%)

According to the 2011 census, the total population of Jammu Division is 5,350,811.[25]Scheduled castes(Dalits) constitute 19.44% of the population[26]andScheduled tribescomprise 15-20% of the population in Jammu Division. Five out of 10 districts, mainly in the hilly areas of the east and north, have Muslim majorities, while the densely populated plains of the southwest are predominantly Hindu.Gurjar-BakarwalsandGaddi-Sippis,who practicetranshumance,are also found here.[27][28]The largest ethnic group in the Jammu Division are theDogras,who comprise approximately 47% of the population.[29][30]Jammu's people are closely related toPunjabis.[31]

Tawi River

The Jammu District overall has a population – 84% practice Hinduism, 7% practice Islam and most of the remainder are Sikhs.[25]The Hindus form a majority in theJammu,Kathua,Samba andUdhampurdistricts, and roughly half the population in theReasi district.[25]Most of Jammu's Hindus are native Dogras,Kashmiri Pandits,Punjabi Hindumigrants and refugees from theKotliandMirpurareas which are currently administered by Pakistan. Many Sikhs are migrants from Pakistan-administered Kashmir, mainly fromMuzaffarabadandPoonchsector areas annexed by Pakistan in 1947.[citation needed]

In Jammu Division, "Dogriis spoken by a majority in the five districts of Jammu, Udhampur, Kathua, Samba and Reasi ".[32]Other common languages includeGojri,Pahari,Kashmiri,Hindi,PunjabiandUrdu.[32]

Jammu Division: mother-tongue of population, according to the 2011 Census.[24]
Mother tongue code Mother tongue People Percentage
001002 Assamese 2,930 0.05%
002007 Bengali 8,826 0.16%
004001 Dogri 2,505,677 46.59%
005018 Gujarati 2,581 0.05%
005054 Ponchi 13,651 0.25%
006086 Bhadrawahi 98,159 1.83%
006096 Bharmauri/Gaddi 24,019 0.45%
006102 Bhojpuri 6,455 0.12%
006125 Bundeli/Bundel khandi 1,303 0.02%
006142 Chhattisgarhi 9,287 0.17%
006173 Dhundhari 2,073 0.04%
006195 Garhwali 794 0.01%
006207 Gojri/Gujjari/Gujar 703,049 13.07%
006235 Haryanvi 10,230 0.19%
006240 Hindi 186,204 3.46%
006340 Kumauni 946 0.02%
006376 Magadhi/Magahi 1,133 0.02%
006438 Padari 17,225 0.32%
006439 Pahari 711,587 13.23%
006489 Rajasthani 2,119 0.04%
007016 Kannada 3,445 0.06%
008005 Kashmiri 595,290 11.07%
008010 Kishtwari 39,606 0.74%
008018 Siraji 77,355 1.44%
008019 Dardi 3,669 0.07%
010008 Maithili 578 0.01%
011016 Malayalam 5,994 0.11%
012003 Meitei 1,195 0.02%
013071 Marathi 11,007 0.20%
014011 Nepali 17,214 0.32%
015043 Odia 4,923 0.09%
016038 Punjabi 167,602 3.12%
020027 Tamil 6,984 0.13%
021046 Telugu 7,214 0.13%
022015 Urdu 9,702 0.18%
024001 Afghani/Kabuli/Pashto 559 0.01%
031011 Bauti 1,971 0.04%
040001 English 398 0.01%
053005 Gujari 22,063 0.41%
055007 Khasi 1,195 0.02%
073003 Ladakhi 596 0.01%
109005 Shina 613 0.01%
– Others 91,117 1.69%
Total 5,378,538 100.00%

Hindus of Jammu region are subdivided into various caste groups, and of themBrahminsandRajputsare the predominant ones. According to the 1941 census, 30% of them were Brahmin, 27% Rajput, 15%Thakkar,4%Jat,8%Khatri[33]and 8%MeghandChamarare the most common.[34]Other Backward Classescomprises 32% of population in Jammu.[35]

The districts ofRajouri,Poonch,Doda,KishtwarandRambanhave a Muslim-majority population.[25]TheReasi districthas an almost equal number of Muslims (49.7%) and Hindus (48.9%). The Muslim ethnic groups are,Gujjarand Bakerwal in Poonch and Rajouri districts who are ethno-linguistically different from the Kashmiri Muslims. There is a substantial presence of Kashmiri Muslims inKishtwar,RambanandDodadistricts.Reasi districtalso has a significant population of Kashmiri Muslims.[32][29]TheJammu districtalso has a significant population ofKashmiri Hindus.

See also:List of cities in Jammu and Kashmir

Districts

[edit]

As of April 2021, the Jammu Division consists of ten districts:

Name of district Headquarters Area Population
(2001)[36] 		Population
(2011)[36] 		Religious Composition (2011)[37]
Total
(km2) 		Total
(sq mile) 		Rural
(km2) 		Urban
(km2) 		Hindu % Muslim %
Kathua Kathua 2,502 966 2,458.84 43.16 [38] 550,084 615,711 87.6% 10.4%
Jammu Jammu 2,342 904 2,089.87 252.13 [39] 1,343,756 1,526,406 84.3% 7.5%
Samba Samba 904 349 865.24 38.76 [40] 245,016 318,611 86.3% 7.2%
Udhampur Udhampur 2,637 1,018 2,593.28 43.72 [41] 475,068 555,357 88.1% 10.8%
Reasi Reasi 1,719 664 1,679.99 39.01 [42] 268,441 314,714 48.9% 49.7%
Rajouri Rajouri 2,630 1,015 2,608.11 21.89 [43] 483,284 619,266 34.5% 62.7%
Poonch Poonch 1,674 646 1,649.92 24.08 [44] 372,613 476,820 6.8% 90.5%
Doda Doda 2,625 1,014 2,617.00 8.00 [45] 320,256 409,576 45.8% 53.8%
Ramban Ramban 1,329 513 1,313.92 15.08 [46] 180,830 283,313 28.6% 70.7%
Kishtwar Kishtwar 7,737 2,987 7,732.00 15.00 [47] 190,843 231,037 40.7% 57.8%

During the Maharaja's reign before the Independence and Partition of India (and of Jammu and Kashmir), the following districts were also part of Jammu region: Bhimber, Kotli, Mirpur, Poonch (Western parts), Haveli, Bagh and Sudhnati. Today these districts are part ofPakistan Administered Jammu and Kashmir.

Politics

[edit]

The major political parties in the region are theCongress,theBJP,theNational Conference,theJammu and Kashmir People's Democratic Partyand theJammu and Kashmir National Panthers Party.

Various sections of the society in the region including theBJPhave been advocating the separation of Jammu region from Kashmir and its inclusion as a distinct entity into the Indian Union, citing largely Kashmir-centric policies in the existing state and neglect of the Jammu region by successive Kashmir dominated administrations.[48]

In November 2020, the organisationIkkJutt Jammuwas launched as a party and demanded Jammu division be separated and given statehood.[49]The then social organisation IkkJutt Jammu campaigned against theRoshni Act,which was declared unconstitutional by theJammu and Kashmir High Courtin 2020.[50]

The present arrangement of legislative assembly seats (46 in Kashmir and 37 in Jammu) deprives Jammu region an equal say in decision-making process. This has been the main point of contention behind the strong regional divide. There have been repeated demands for the constitution of a Delimitation Commission to address issues related to electoral arrangements.[48][51][52]After changing the status of the state to Union territory, the Government announced setting up of Delimitation Commission with retired Supreme Court judge Ranjana Prakash Desai as its chairman.[53]

Economy

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Jammu Chamber of Commerce & Industryis an apex body of traders, industrialists and those associated with commercial activities in the Jammu division.[54]

Places of interest

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Jammu is known for its landscape, ancient temples,Hindushrines,Mubarak Mandi Palace,Amar Mahal Palace(a castle type) now a Museum, gardens andforts.Hindu holy shrine Vaishno Devi attracts tens of thousands of Hindu devotees every year. Jammu's natural landscape has made it one of the most favoured destinations for adventure tourism[55]in South Asia. Jammu's historic monuments feature a unique blend of Islamic and Hindu architecture styles.

Purmandal

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PURMANDAL,also known asChhota KashiorKashi of Jammu,is located 35 km from Jammu city. An ancient holy place, it has several temples ofShivaand other deities. OnShivratri,the town wears a festive look and for three days as people celebrate the marriage of Lord Shiva to GoddessParvati.

Vaishno Devi shrine

[edit]
Main article:Vaishno Devi
TheVaishno Devi shrineattracts millions of Hindu devotees every year

The town ofKatra,which is 48 km (30 mi) from Jammu, contains the Vaishno Devi shrine. Nestling on top of theTrikuta Hillsat a height of 1,700 metres (5,600 ft) is the sacred cave shrine of Vaishno Devi, the mothergoddess.The cave is 30 metres (98 ft) long and just 1.5 metres (4 ft 11 in) high. At the end of the cave are shrines dedicated to the three forms of the mother goddess —Mahakali,MahalakshmiandMahasarasvati.Pilgrimsstart trekking to the cave temple, which is 13 km (8.1 mi) from Katra, enter in small groups through a narrow opening and walk through ice-cold waters to reach the shrines. According to legend, the mother goddess hid in the cave while escaping a demon whom she ultimately killed.

Nandini Wildlife Sanctuary

[edit]

Nandini Wildlife Sanctuary is in an area of thick forests teeming with wildlife. It is a renowned natural habitat for a significant population of pheasants. Among the other avifauna areIndian mynah,bluerock pigeon,Indian peafowl,red junglefowl,cheer pheasantandchakor.

Spread over an area of 34 km2(13 sq mi), the sanctuary is rich in fauna and provides refuge to a wide variety ofmammals,chieflyleopard,wild boar,rhesus monkey,bharalandgrey langur.

Sukrala Mata Mandir

[edit]
Main article:Sukrala Mata Mandir

This is an important Mandir of Jammu region dedicated to Goddess Sukrala, a manifestation of Goddess Sharada of Kashmir. It is located in Sukrala village nearBillawartown inKathua district.[4]

Mansar Lake

[edit]
Main article:Mansar Lake

Situated 62 km from Jammu,Mansar Lakeis a lake fringed by forest-covered hills, over a mile long by half a mile wide.32°41′46″N75°08′49″E/ 32.69611°N 75.14694°E/32.69611; 75.14694Besides being an excursion destination in Jammu, it is also a holy site, sharing the legend and sanctity ofLake Manasarovar.

On the eastern bank of Mansar Lake is a shrine dedicated toShesha,a mythological snake with six heads. The shrine comprises a big boulder on which are placed a number of iron chains perhaps representing the small serpents waiting on the tutelary deity of Shesha. Newlyweds consider it auspicious to perform three circumambulations (Parikarma) around the lake to seek the blessings of Shesha.

Two ancient temples of Umapati Mahadev and Narasimha and a temple of Durga are situated in the vicinity of the Mansar Lake and which are visited by devotees in large numbers. People take a holy dip in the water of the lake on festive occasions. Certain communities of Hindus perform theMundanceremony (first haircut) of their male children here.

Mansar Lake also has boating facilities provided by the Tourism Department.

With all the religious belief and heritage behind the Mansar Lake, it is also famous among tourists with all itsfloraandfauna.[citation needed]The lake is circled by an illuminated, with viewing decks to observe seasonal birds,tortoise,and fishes of different species. A wildlife sanctuary houses jungle life, including spotted deer, neelgai, and water birds such as cranes and ducks. One can also witness the traditional and typical distinct lifestyle ofGujjarand Backarwals wearing ethnic costumes, living in open Kullhas in the hills around Mansar Lake.

The Mansar Lake road joins to another important road that directly linksPathankottoUdhampur.Udhampur is a town of strategic importance, on National Highway No. 1A. The shortcut road from Mansar or Samba to Udhampur by-pass the Jammu town. Surinsar Lake, a smaller lake that is linked to Mansar, is 24 km (15 mi) from Jammu via the by-pass road.

Bahu Fort

[edit]
Main article:Bahu Fort
Bahu Fort

Bahu Fort, which also serves as a religious temple, is situated about 5 km from Jammu city on a rock face on the left bank of the river Tawi. This is perhaps the oldest fort and edifice in Jammu city. Constructed originally by Raja Bahulochan over 3000 years ago, the fort was improved and rebuilt by Dogra rulers. Inside the fort is a temple dedicated to the GoddessKali,popularly known asBave Wali Mata,the presiding deity of Jammu. Every Tuesday and Sunday pilgrims throng this temple and partake in "Tawi flowing worship". Today the fort is surrounded by a terraced garden which is a favouritepicnicspot of the city folk.[citation needed]

Bagh-e-Bahu,located on the banks of Tawi river, is a Mughal-age garden. It gives a nice view of the old city and Tawi river. There is a small canteen on one side of the garden.

On the by-pass road behind Bahu Fort, the city forest surrounds the ancientMahamayaTemple overlooking the river Tawi. A small garden surrounded by acres of woods provides a commanding view of the city.

Opposite the Bahu Fort, overlooking theRiver Tawiis a temple dedicated toMahamayaof Dogra descent, who lost her life fourteen centuries ago fighting foreign invaders. The present temple of Bawey Wali Mata was built shortly after the coronation ofMaharaja Gulab Singh,in 1822. It is also known as the temple ofMahakaliand the goddess is considered second only to Mata Vaishno Devi in terms of mystical power.

Raghunath Temple

[edit]
Main article:Raghunath Temple
Raghunath Temple

Amongst the temples in Jammu, theRaghunath Templetakes pride of place being situated right in the heart of the city. This temple is situated at the city center and was built in 1857. Work on the temple was started by MaharajaGulab Singh,founder of theState of Jammu and Kashmir,in 1835 CE and was completed by his son MaharajaRanbir Singhin 1860 CE. The inner walls of the main temple are covered with gold sheet on three sides. There are many galleries with hundreds of thousands ofshaligrams.The surrounding Temples are dedicated to various Gods and Goddesses connected with the epicRamayana.This temple consists of seven shrines, each with a tower of its own. It is the largest temple complex in northern India. Though 130 years old, the complex is remarkable for sacred scriptures, one of the richest collections of ancient texts and manuscripts in its library. Its arches, surface, and niches are undoubtedly influenced byMughal architecturewhile the interiors of the temple are plated with gold. The main sanctuary is dedicated to LordVishnu's eighth incarnation and Dogras' patron deity,Rama.It also houses aSanskritLibrary containing rareSanskritmanuscripts.

Peer Kho Cave

[edit]

Alongside the same Tawi river are thePeer Kho Cavetemple, thePanchbakhtar templeand theRanbireshwar templededicated to LordShivawith their own legends and specific days of worship. Peer Kho cave is located on the bank of river Tawi and it is widely believed thatRamayancharacterJamvant(the bear god) meditated in this cave. The Ranbireshwar Temple has twelve Shivalingamsof crystal measuring 300 mm (12 in) to 460 mm (18 in) and galleries with thousands ofshaligramsfixed on stone slabs. Located on the Shalimar Road near the New Secretariat, and built by MaharajaRanbir Singhin 1883 CE. It has one central lingam measuring 2.3 metres (7 ft 7 in) in height and twelve Shiva lingams of crystal measuring from 150 to 380 mm (5.9 to 15.0 in) and galleries with thousands of Shiva lingams fixed on stone slabs.

Shivkhori

[edit]
Main article:Shivkhori
The Shivkhori cave

The cave shrine ofShivkhori,situated in Reasi District of Jammu and Kashmir, depicts the natural formation of shivlingum.[56]It is one of the most venerated cave shrines of Lord Shiva in the region. The holy cave is approximately 150 m (490 ft) long, and contains "4 ft (1.2 m) high Svayambhu Lingum, which constantly baths in a milky lime fluid dripping from the ceiling."[56]The first entrance of the cave is so wide that 300 devotees can be accommodated at a time. Its cavern is spacious enough to accommodate a large number of people. The inner chamber of the cave is smaller. The cave has many natural impressions and images of various Hindu deities and full of divine feelings. That is why Shivkhori is known as "the Home of Gods".

A 3-day Shiv Khori mela takes places annually on Maha Shivratri and thousands of pilgrims from different parts of the state and elsewhere visit this cave shrine to seek the blessings of Lord Shiva. The Maha Shivratri festival is usually held in February or during the first week of March every year. Keeping in view the increasing rush of pilgrims to the holy cave shrine, the Shiv Khori Shrine Board has taken up a number of steps to develop this spot in a bid to provide more and more facilities to the devotees, like the construction of a Shrine Guest House at a cost of Rs. 19 lakh at village Ransoo, the base camp of yatra, a reception centre and pony shed at an estimated cost of₹7.959 million(US$95,000), tile work of entire a 3-kilometre-long (1.9 mi) track is nearing completion, plantation of ornamental and medicinal plants on track and development of parks etc. Other arrangements like electrification of the cave with modern techniques, provision of oxygen and electric generators, exhaust fans, construction of shelter sheds for travellers with toilet facilities near the cave site, 15 shelter sheds en route Ransoo to cave shrine, railing from the base camp to cave, additional facility of 15,000/EfnrKing water reservoir, proper sanitation, provision of 25 kV capacity electric transformer, clock room, starting of permanent bus services from Katra, Udhampur, and Jammu, police post and dispensary and an STD PCO are under active consideration of the Shiv Khori Shrine Development Board.

Recently, the management and development of the Shiv Khori have been taken over by Sri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board who is looking after Vaishno Devi pilgrimage.

Machail Mata

[edit]
Main article:Machail Mata
Machail Mata

Machail MataThe Chandi Maa temple is located in the village Machel, District Kishtwar, Jammu Region. The place is about 290 km (180 mi) from Jammu. During 'Chhadi Yatra', thousands of people visit the shrine. The pilgrimage happens in the month of August only every year. The shrine was visited in 1981 by Thakur Kulveer Singh of Bhaderwah, Jammu region. From 1987 onwards, Thakur Kulveer Singh started 'Chhadi Yatra'that happens every year and thousands of people visit the shrine every year during 'Chhadi Yatra'. To reach the shrine, a lot of travel agents arrange buses from Jammu, Udhampur, Ramnagar, Bhaderwah. One can also hire a cab as well. It takes approximately 10 hours by road from Jammu to Gulabgarh. The Gulabgarh is the base camp. From Gulabgarh, the foot journey starts, that is 32 km. Usually, people take 2 days to reach the shrine by foot. On the way, there are many villages, where one can stay the night but the chaddi takes three days to reach Machel. Many people organise roadside 'langers' (free food points) on the way to the Gulabgarh. The government of Jammu and Kashmir also arranges basic amenities for the pilgrims.

Another means of reaching the shrine is by helicopter from Jammu and Gulabgarh. The helipad is only 100 m (330 ft) from the shrine.

City centres and attractions

[edit]

One of the major attractions of Jammu is a revolving restaurant named Falak, located on the top of the hotel KC Residency. Ragunath Bazar is the main tourist and shopping districts of the city. The locality of Gandhi Nagar hosts the market areas of Gole Market, on Apsara Road. On any pleasant evening, one can take a stroll in Green Belt Park alongside the magnificent bungalows that adorn Green Belt Road. Rajinder Park on Canal Road is a new development. This park is situated between two canals and features a large fountain which is lit up at night. A children's area is located next to the park.

The city has "Big Bazaar" at Jewel Chowk as one of the shopping centres. A shopping mall named as 'Wave - The Wave Mall' is popular. There is one more shopping mall named as Palm Island near Canal Road. Also, a complex and a new age commercial hub by the name of Bahu-Plaza in Trikuta Nagar area is a common hangout spot for youngsters and young professionals.[citation needed]Most of the corporate sector and most of the mobile phone companies likeAirtel,BSNL,Vodafone,AircelandTata Indicomare based in the Bahu Plaza complex. There are many cinema halls, the best out of those are KC Cineplex, Wave Cinema, Palm Cinema, etc. A PVR is also there near KC Cineplex.

Cuisine

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Jammu is known for its chocolatebarfi,sundpanjeeri,patisa and its exotic local food.Rajmawith rice is one of the specialty dishes of Jammu. Another iskalaadi,which is a processed cheese made by adding calf rennet in the buffalo milk.FiddleheadFern also known askasrodis a GI Tagged item from he division and is highly prized for its taste and medicinal values and is often consumed as vegetable or pickle.Kohlrabiknows askaddamin jammu is also a speciality product and its stew is eaten with rice.

Kalari

[edit]

Kalari cheeseis specialty made in the Ramnagar region of Jammu is famous all over the state.[citation needed]

Dogri food specialties include ambal, khatta meat, kulthein di dal, dal patt, maa da madra, rajma, andauriya.Pickles typical of Jammu are made of kasrod,girgle,mango with saunf, zimikand,tyaoo,seyoo,and potatoes. Auriya is a dish made with potatoes. During weddings it is typical to make kayoor and sund.

Festivals of Jammu

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Lohri

[edit]
Lohri bonfire

This festival heralds the culmination of cold weather[57]and is celebrated a day beforeMakar Sankranti.In rural areas, it is customary for young boys to go around asking for gifts from newlyweds and parents of newborns.

Lohri inDograhouseholds of Jammu is special because of various additional traditions associated with it likeChajjamaking,Hiran Dance, Dandaraasand preparing Lohri garlands.

Young children prepare a replica of peacock which is known asChajja[58].They carry thisChajjaand then go from one house to other house celebrating Lohri. A special dance is performed using thisChajjaon the occasion ofLohri.It makes a striking picture to see boys along with theirChajjaselaborately decorated with coloured paper and flowers dance on the street in a procession. The whole atmosphere of Jammu comes alive with pulsating drumbeats.[59]Besides, dancing boys strike sticks on rhythm of a drum as inRaslila.This is known asDandaraas.[60][61]

In and around Jammu, specialHiran Danceis performed. Dancers disguise themselves as deer and dance on tune ofHiranasongs. They visit selected houses which have auspicious ceremonies & have prepared eatables.[62]Children wear special garlands made of groundnuts, dry fruits and candies on Lohri day. Special eatable is prepared using sesame, rice and groundnuts which is known asTilcholi.Pageant ofSassi-Punnu,two lovers ofSindhifolk tradition are also taken out on camels during the festival.[60]

The next day, the whole region wears a festive look onMakar Sankranti.Thousands take a dip in the holy riverHavanYajnasare performed in nearly every house and temple in Jammu.

Uttarain or Maghi Sangrand (Makar Sankranti)

[edit]

In Jammu,Makar Sankrantiis celebrated asUttarain(derived from Sanskrit:Uttarayana).[63][64]Alternatively, termsAttrainorAttranihave also been used to describe this festival. A day before Lohri is celebrated byDograsto commemorate end ofPoh(Pausha) month.[65]It is also beginning theMaghamonth as per Hindu Solar Calendar, hence also known asMaghi Sangrand(SankrantiofMaghmonth).

AmongDogras,there is a tradition ofMansana(charity) ofKhichdiofMaah Dal.KhichdiofMaah di Dalis also prepared on this day and that is why this day is also referred to as 'Khichdi wala Parva'. There is also a tradition of sendingKhichdi& other food items to house of married daughters. Fairs are organised on holy places and pligrimages on this day.[66]Dhagwal inHiranagartehsil is known for Fair onMakar SankrantiandJanamashtami.[67]

People of Jammu also take holy bath in Devika river and pilgrimages likeUttar BehniandPurmandalon this occasion.[68]This day is also celebrated as birth anniversary of Baba Ambo ji, a local deity of Jammu region.[69]

At Vasuki temple ofBhaderwahof Jammu, the idols of Vasuki Nag are covered onMagh Sankrantiand they are uncovered only after three months onVaisakha Sankranti.[70][71]

Bhugga (Sankashti Chaturthi)

[edit]

This festival is celebrated on fourth day ofKrishna PakshaofMaghamonth ofHindu Calendar.It is celebrated in reverence to Hindu GodGaneshaand is also known asSankashti Chaturthi.Dograwomen performArghyatoChandramaat night.Bhugga(Til Jaggery mixture) and Radish are donated and eaten to complete the fast.[72][73]

Basant Panchami

[edit]

Basant Panchamifestival is dedicated for worship ofGoddess Saraswati,the goddess of learning, arts and music and for welcomingSpring Season.People wear yellow or saffron or orange colored clothes on this day.Saffroncolored food items are prepared and offered asNaivedhyato Goddess Saraswati.[74]People sing folk songs like Aayi Basant, Paala Udant'.[75]This day is also special forDograsbecause on Basant Panchami of year 1944,Dogri Sansthacame into existence.[76]

Kan Chauth (Gauri Chaturthi)

[edit]

It is observed on fourth day ofShukla PakshaofMaghamonth ofHindu Calendar[77]in the hill districts & tehsils of Jammu Division especiallyBhaderwah,Doda,KishtwarandRamban.A day beforeGauriTritiyais also observed by some communities. This festival is observed by married woman similar toKarwa Chauth,only difference being fast is completed here afterGauriPujain the day. Goddess Gauri is worshipped for long life and health of husbands by women. The festivity remains for three days. During these three days, ladies go in the neighborhood to offer ‘Thel’ (respect) to other women and get in return their blessing ‘Suhagan Bho’ (Live long your husband).[78]

Holi

[edit]

Holiis celebrated in traditional way in Jammu. On the eve of Holi,Holika Dahanis performed. The next day people enjoy by playing with colors.[79]Earlier people used to decorate themselves using special headgears which were prepared using colored papers and silver ribbons. These were known asPatangi.[80]: 75 ADograsweet dishKhaste(similar toGujjiya) is prepared on this day. A three-day fair is organised at Narsingh Dev temple inKathua.[81]

Ram Naumi (Rama Navami)

[edit]

Rama Navami,the birth ofShri Ramais celebrated with religious fervour & gaiety all across Jammu. The day also coincides with culmination of nine-day longNavaratrafestival. Special function on Rama Navami is held in the historicalRaghunath Templein Jammu city where large number of devotees pay their obeisance toLord Rama.Even during Dogra rule, the rulers would personally visit Raghunath Mandir and offer worship to Shri Rama, their patron deity. Besides, worship and offerings to the deity inside the temple, there are a number of discourses onBhagwan Ram'slife andRamayana.[82]

On this auspicious occasion,Shobha Yatrais taken out. Images ofShri Rama,Mata Sita&Lakshmanand number of tableaux depicting scenes fromRamayanaare taken out in a grogeous procession. Devotees shower flower petals on the Shobha Yatra. Number of market unions and Hindu organisations, organiseBhandarason this occasion.[83]

Basoa (Vishuva) or Baisakhi (Mesha Sankranti)

[edit]

The nameBaisakhiis taken from the first month of theHindu Vikram calendar.It is celebrated on the first day ofVaisakhmonth and marks the day ofMesha Sankranti.[84]It is also known as 'Basoa'[85]inDogri.

On this day, devotees get up early in the morning, throng the rivers, canals, and ponds and take a ritual dip every year on this occasion. InDograhouseholds, aPujais performed afterwards and part of food crop is offered to the deities. New fruit of the year is enjoyed on this day.[86]A Ritual Bath atTawiriver during Baisakhi is common in Jammu.[87]

Baisakhi is celebrated atUdhampuron the bank of Devika river where for three days devotees enjoy the folk songs. AtSudhmahadev,this festival is celebrated with great pomp and show where folk singers come down and a competition of folk songs is held. Vendors generally install their shops and stalls of eatables.[86]

Many people go to the Nagbani temple to witness the grand New Year celebration.[88]Baisakhi is also considered "harvest festival" and considered auspicious, especially for marriages. Celebrations of Baisakhi also includeDogriBhangra[89]which is closely related to Punjabi variant, with respect to actions, costumes and songs.[90]

The occasion is marked by numerous fairs and people come by the thousands to celebrate Baisakhi. For example, Airwan inKathuais known for Baisakhi fair attended by 10,000 people as per Census 1961.[91]Every year on Baisakhi festival around 15,000 pilgrims pay their obeisance at 700 tear old temple of Subar Nag Devta temple inBhaderwah.[92]Other places where Baisakhi fairs are held areDodaBridge andRamban.[93]

Bahu Mela (March–April and September–October)

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A major festival is held at theKaliTemple in Bahu Fort twice a year.

Chaitre Chaudash (March–April)

[edit]

Chaitre Chaudash is celebrated at Uttar Behni and Purmandal, about 25 km (16 mi) and 28 km (17 mi) from Jammu respectively. Uttar Behni gets its name from the fact that the Devak River (locally also known as Gupt Ganga) flows here in the northerly direction.

Purmandal Mela (February–March)

[edit]

Purmandal is 39 km (24 mi) from Jammu city. OnShivratrithe town wears a festive look for three days as people celebrate the marriage of Lord Shiva to the GoddessParvati.The people of Jammu also come out in their colourful best to celebrate Shivratri at Peer Khoh Cave Temple, the Ranbireshwar Temple, and the Panjbhaktar Temple. In fact, if one visits Jammu duringShivratri,one finds a celebration going on almost everywhere.

Dhamdeh (Dharma Dhihada - Aashada Sankranti) & Nirjala Ekadashi

[edit]

Both of these festivals are celebrated similarly.Dhamdehalso known asDharmaDhihadaorDharma Divasis celebrated onSankrantiofAashadhamonth.[94]People take a ritual bath and performMansana(charity) ofhand fans,water pitchers and seasonal fruits likemelons.These donations are made in name ofPitras(ancestors).[95]Major celebration is people offering sweet water drinks and food to poor and needy.[96]Similar rituals are observed onNirjala Ekadashi( celebrated onJyesthaShuklaEkadashi) where in addition a strictVratais observed in honour ofLord Vishnu.[97][98]

Rutt Raahde & Sakolade (Shravana Sankranti)

[edit]

Rutt Raahdeis a festival celebrated byDograwomen of all ages fromAashadaSankrantitoShravanaSankranti.The last day i.e. Shravana Sankranti is referred to asSakoladeorMinjraan.Young girls and women collect necks of broken earthen pitchers and insert them into ground. Seeds ofKharif cropsare sown inside these pitchers. These are known asRaahdewhich are then decorated withrangoli patternsusing natural colors. Every Sunday, women would assemble and sing folk songs and enjoy eatables likeRutt,Gheur&Pudas,at the site whereRaahdeare inserted. On the last day of festival i.e.Badda Rutt,women would again assemble, sing folk songs, enjoy eatables and finally immerse theRaahdein water bodies. The final day i.e. Shravana Sankranti is also known asSakolade(named after the ear ornaments that are worn during this day.) In parts of Himachal,Sakoladeare also referred to asMinjraan.[99][100]

Thongren Da Vrat (Krishna Janmashtami)

[edit]

JanmashtamiinDogriis also referred to asThongrenDa Vrat,meaningVratafor Thakur (Lord Krishna).[85]A fast is observed in honour of Sri Krishna by adults, while kids & youngsters enjoyKite flyingon this day. Girls and women decorate their palms by applyingTeera,dye of an indigenous plant.[101]

Some families have tradition of keeping cereal grains in name ofKulDevtas,Pitras(ancestors) & family members. This is known asDeyaa Parna.These cereal grains are then offered to wood of a holy tree calledJhand.This is known asJhandPuja.The wood is covered in sacred cloth calledshoaath.Clay sculptures of a couple and their children are placed on the cloth, and are worshipped. They are offeredKheer(without sugar) andMakkhan.This is followed by offeringDropads(kind ofchapatis)to cows. This practice is called ‘dropad mansnaa‘. Some people also enjoy swings on tree known aspeengan.[102]

At night, people dress up their children like deities. Towns and cities witness several processions. At midnight,Sund Panjeeriis offered asNaivedyato Sri Krishna.[102]

Bacch Dua (Vatsa Dwadashi) & Drubadi (Durvashtami)

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Vatsa Dwadashiin Jammu region is celebrated on twelfth day ofKrishna PakshaofBhadrapadamonth asBacch Duaand Durvashtami asDrubadion eighth day ofShukla PakshaofBhadrapadamonth. In both these festivals, women prepare small sized idols/sculptures of calves using wheat dough.[103]These are worshipped on water bodies. SoakedBlack chickpeas&Durvagrass is used for Puja. Dogra dishes likeRuttandDropadare used asNaivedya.[104][105]

Singh Sankrant (Simha Sankranti)

[edit]

It is celebrated on first day of solar month ofHindu Calendari.e.Bhadrapada.The festival holds special significance inRamban districtof Jammu division.[106]People visitChandrabhagariver and offer floral offerings. It is popularly known by the nameSingh Sankrant.Local tradition traces the origin of festival toPandavas.[107]

Tulsi Puja & Panj Bhikham (Bhishma Panchak)

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Tulsi Pujais performed inDografamilies fromKartika Shukla EkadashitillKartika Purnima.This five-day period is known asPanj Bhikham(Bhishma Panchak).[98]

On the occasion of Tulsi Puja, Dogra families would decorate theTulsi plantpot and would writeRam Ramon them. This is known asTulsi Da Chauntra[108]inDogri.They would cover the plant with RedDupattaorChunni.A fast is also observed on Kartika Shukla Ekadashi in honour ofLord VishnuandTulsi Mata.Women light upDiyasfromEkadashitillPurnimaon Tulsi plant. This ceremony is known asDeevein Dogri. Some families may also organizeTulsi VivahwithShaligram.It is believed that Tulsi has got affinity withShaligram.[80]: 52–53 

Jhiri Mela (October–November)

[edit]

An annual fair is held in the name of Baba Jitto, a simple and honest farmer who preferred to kill himself rather than submit to the unjust demands of the local landlord to part with his crop. He killed himself in the village of Jhiri, 14 km from Jammu. A legend has grown around the Baba and his followers congregate at Jhiri on the appointed day from every corner of North India; they revere him for his compassion, courage, and honesty.[109]

[edit]

Though theyatrato the shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi is a round-the-year event, a pilgrimage undertaken during theNavratrasis considered the most auspicious. In order to showcase and highlight the regional culture,heritageand traditions of the area during this period, the State Tourism Department has instituted the Navratri Festival as an annual event to be held during September/October for the nine auspicious days of the Navratras. A large number of tourists pay their obeisance to the deity during this period. This festival showcases the religious traditions as well as the popular culture of the region among the millions ofpilgrimswho visit theVaishnodevijiShrine during this period.

Rath Kharda Mela

[edit]

An eight-day fair is organised in Narsingh and Annapurna Temple in Ghagwal ofSamba districtof Jammu division. This fair involves taking out procession of deity on achariot.Hence namedRath Kharda Mela.Thousands of devotees are drawn from neighbouring states ofPunjabandHimachal Pradeshand also other parts of Jammu region. People from hilly areas of Jammu like:Basohli,Doda,Kishtwar,Bani,Dudu Basantgarhput stalls in this fair and sell the handicrafts and woolen items likePattus,blankets & shawls.[110]

During this fair, the temple is decorated with flowers and lights. Devotees visit the temple and pay obeisance to the main deity, Bhagwan Narsimha. ABhandarais also organised for the devotees. Local farmers sow their fields in the name ofBhagwan Narsimhaand while harvesting their crops offer a part of it to the temple during this fair.[111]

Besides Ghagwal,Rath Kharda Melais also held at other places of Jammu division like:Ramgarhtehsil ofUdhampurdistrict, Parnala village inBillawartehsil and Hatli village inKathua.[112]

Shivratri (Herath)

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Shivaratri(lit. ''Shiva's night'') is a festival of great significance for Hindus all over the world, especially for those of Kashmiri origin settled in Jammu. On this day, Lord Siva and his spouse Parvati are worshipped with great devotion everywhere in the country. Esoterically, it is symbolic of the mystic union of Jiva (individual soul) with Paramatma (the Supreme Godhead) and it represents the high state of spiritual realization wherein the world of relativity fades away and perfect peace and calm prevail. Along with worshipping 'Shiva' people observe both social and cultural meets on this festival. They rejoice and exchange greetings with friends and relatives.[113]

Education

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Jammu region has many institutes offering higher education. The colleges varies frommedical colleges,toengineering colleges,and many other government and private colleges.

Some of the major higher educational institutes in Jammu Region are:

See also

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References

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    (g)Clary, Christopher (23 August 2023),The Difficult Politics of Peace: Rivalry in Modern South Asia,Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, p. 109,ISBN9780197638408,Territorial Dispute: The situation along the Sino-Indian frontier continued to worsen. In late July (1959), an Indian reconnaissance patrol was blocked, "apprehended," and eventually expelled after three weeks in custody at the hands of a larger Chinese force near Khurnak Fort in Aksai Chin.... Circumstances worsened further in October 1959, when a major class at Kongka Pass in eastern Ladakh led to nine dead and ten captured Indian border personnel, making it by far the most serious Sino-Indian class since India's independence.
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    (i)Fisher, Michael H. (2018),An Environmental History of India: From Earliest Times to the Twenty-First Century,Cambridge University Press, p. 166,ISBN978-1-107-11162-2Quote: "Kashmir’s identity remains hotly disputed with a UN-supervised “Line of Control” still separating Pakistani-held Azad ( “Free” ) Kashmir from Indian-held Kashmir. ";
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