Lampshade hat
Alampshade hatis a millinery design in which the hat has a small circular crown – typically flat, but sometimes rounded – and flares outwards to create a cone-like profile.[1]In shape, it may have some similarities to thepillboxandbuckethat, both of which were popular at around the same time, although the classic lampshade design is longer and more flared than a pillbox (typically ending at or below the ears) and is generally made of stiffer material than a bucket hat.
TheAsian conical hatand themushroom hatare sometimes termedlampshade,as well as any oversized or lavishly trimmed hat.[2]
History of the design
[edit]The lampshade style was popularised byChristian Diorin the 1950s and remained fashionable through the next decade.[citation needed]Dior continued to feature variations in his collections into the early 1960s.[3]Early versions could be trimmed or decorated, or could rely on shape alone for effect.
Writing inThe Guardianin 1953 about the London spring collections, Clair Wilson described a: "lampshade of a hat" designed bySimone Mirmanand shown atJohn Cavanagh's London show. This model was pleated and matched to a black silk cape.[4]A year later, Wilson described a new season's design that was quite close fitting, in the manner of a helmet, adding that it was: "devoid of decoration and having some relationship to the cloche in concealing most of the hair".[5]
By 1956, lampshades and pillboxes were said to be overtaking the previously popular mushroom andcartwheeldesigns atAscotraces. A reviewer of the opening day's fashions noted: "1956 must be dismissed as an unspectacular year. Gone were the cartwheels and giant mushrooms of other years, and in their place were pill-boxes (Princess Margaret), lampshades (Princess Alexandra) and various derivations of the beret".[6]
Notable examples of the design include the red lampshade hat worn byDoris Dayin the 1959 romantic comedyPillow Talk.Costumes for this film were created by French costume/fashion designerJean Louis.[7]
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In 1961, Louise Shepard wore a lampshade hat with front bow at aNASAaward ceremony for her husbandAlan B. Shepard -
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Beauty queen and actressAliza Gurwearing a flared lampshade hat with textured pattern in 1964 -
Queen Sirikit of Thailandwearing a close-fitting variation on the lampshade, incorporating ruching and slightly flared brim in 1960
Variations
[edit]Like the pillbox, the lampshade remained popular into the 1960s, as hems rose andSpace Agefashions took hold. Adaptations included both close-fitting and flared designs, as well as what fashion correspondent John Hart Roberts described as the "lampshade helmet", worn with hooded pullover, walking skirt and stockings at designer Maljana'sFlorencefashion show in 1965.[8]
Revivals
[edit]John Galliano,designing for Dior, showed a variety of extreme lampshade-style hats in 2008 – these were created by millinerStephen Jones.[9]The design duoDSquared2recreated 1950s-style lampshade hats for their spring/summer 2014 fashion show in September 2013 atMilan Fashion Week.[10]Other designers showing lampshade-inspired designs for 2014, includedL'Wren ScottandLyn Devon.[citation needed]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^Brooks Picken, Mary (1999).A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern.United States: Dover Publications. p. 164.ISBN0486402940.Retrieved17 January2015.
- ^Sun, Feifei (2 October 2012)."The 15 most ridiculous trends from fashion month".Time.Retrieved17 January2015.
- ^Spade, Kate (2004).Style(2004 ed.). United States: Simon & Schuster. p. 78.ISBN9780743250672.Retrieved19 January2015.
- ^Wilson, Clair (30 January 1953). "The London Spring Collections: Outfits for the occasions".The Guardian.
- ^Wilson, Clair (12 March 1954). "Spring Hats all at Sea".The Guardian.
- ^"Royal Ascot All Too Blue: A windy day for toppers and a chill one for ladies of fashion".The Guardian.20 June 1956.
- ^Laverty, Lord Christopher."Doris Day in Pillow Talk: Couture Allure".clothesonfilm.Clothes on Film.Retrieved15 January2015.
- ^Hart Roberts, John (18 January 1965). "Pop and op".The Guardian.
- ^Mower, Sarah."Christian Dior Spring 2008 Couture: Review".style.style.Retrieved15 January2015.
- ^Thuburn, Dario (18 September 2013)."Gucci kicks off Milan Fashion Week with opium den style".GMA Network. Agence France-Presse.Retrieved18 January2015.
External links
[edit]- Givenchy lampshade hat with flower decoration in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection, c. 1960
- James Wedge variation on the lampshade hat made for Liberty of London in the Victoria & Albert Museum collection, 1957
- Unusual lampshade design with goose-feather brim from the Ryerson Fashion Collection, believed to be 1950s
- DSquared spring/summer 2014 fashion show including lampshade hats on Fashion Channel