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Looe

Coordinates:50°21′14″N4°27′14″W/ 50.354°N 4.454°W/50.354; -4.454
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For other uses, seeLooe (disambiguation).

Looe
Looe is located in Cornwall
Looe
Looe
Location withinCornwall
Population5,112 (United Kingdom Census 2011)
OS grid referenceSX254533
Civil parish
  • Looe
Unitary authority
Ceremonial county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townLOOE
Postcode districtPL13
Dialling code01503
PoliceDevon and Cornwall
FireCornwall
AmbulanceSouth Western
UK Parliament
List of places
UK
England
Cornwall
50°21′14″N4°27′14″W/ 50.354°N 4.454°W/50.354; -4.454

Looe(/ˈluː/;Cornish:Logh,[1]lit. 'deep water inlet') is a coastal town andcivil parishin south-eastCornwall,England, United Kingdom, with a population of 5,280 at the 2011 census.[2][3]

Looe is 20 miles (32 km) west ofPlymouthand seven miles (11 km) south ofLiskeard,[4]divided in two by theRiver Looe,East Looe (Cornish:Logh[1]) and West Looe (Cornish:Porthbyhan,[1]lit."little cove" ) being connected bya bridge.[5]Looe developed as two separate towns each with MPs and its own mayor.

The town centres around a small harbour and along the steep-sided valley of the River Looe which flows between East and West Looe to the sea beside a sandy beach. Offshore to the west, opposite the stonier Hannafore Beach, liesLooe Island.

History

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Prehistory and foundation

[edit]

Archaeological evidence indicates that the area around Looe has been inhabited since theNeolithicperiod (although a possible series of ancient field systems, south of nearby Penarthtown, could suggest earlierPalaeolithicactivity).[6]A Neolithic stone axe, made of greenstone, was found in 1978 on a tidal gravel bank in the bed of West Looe River.[7]Further Neolithic finds, such as flint arrow heads, have also been found in the fields above Trenant Point.[8]Furthermore, the site of a large perfectBronze Agetumulusand most likely the site for a post medievalbeacon[9]was located in a field just north of Hillcrest Nursing home in East Looe. Unfortunately, some time after 1823 the site was levelled,[9]thus leaving no trace of the large barrow to be seen today. Additionaltumulihave also been noted in the area of Looe, such as at the locally known Wooldown field[10]and at the base of Shutta hill,[11]however neither of the tumuli are visible today. Throughout the Looe area, there are also numerousIron AgeandRomano-Britishforts. These include the nearby forts/settlements nearTrelawneand Great Tree.

Additionally, there are some archaeological evidence to suggest there was some small scaleRomaninfluence and possible occupation in Looe. For example, during the early 1800s, a very probable Romanurnwas found whilst developing the road on St Martins hill. It is said that the urn was brown in colour, was about 10 inches high and contained several burnt human bone fragments.[12]Close to the spot where the urn was found, a rock containing numerous specimens ofbivalve shells,most likelyTerebratula,was found. Unfortunately however, the exact location of the burial and the whereabouts of the urn has been lost to time.[12]Subsequently, earthwork remains, of two rectilinear enclosures, can be seen usingLiDarin fields nearTrelawnejust outside Looe.Morphologysuggests that the southern enclosure could possibly be a Roman signal station however the site has never been formally excavated.[13]Furthermore, pieces of aRomanamphorae,stone boat anchors, Roman coins and a number of late prehistoric or Romano-British finds have been made in the vicinity of nearby Looe Island. A large bronze ingot was found by divers to the south of the island. This has led to a number of historians to suggest that the island could possibly beIctis,the tin trading island seen byPytheasin the 4th century BC and recalled byDiodorus Siculusin the 1st century BC. Additionally, a small hoard of eight late Roman coins was recovered in 2008. These coins were recovered from one of the shallow ditches forming a 'pear-shaped enclosure' which encompassed the top of Looe Island and the later Christian chapel site. All eight coins date to the late 3rd or early 4th century AD.

One of Looe's greatest archaeological mysteries is the so called 'Giant's Hedge', which is an ancient earthwork which runs over 9 miles between the Looe andFoweyEstuaries. In some places it is still twelve feet high, and where it is best preserved (for example, in Willake Wood) it is stone-faced and flanked by a ditch. Over the years, there have been many theories to what the ancient earthwork may have been or its intended purpose. While the name and early folklore suggests it was built by a giant, as the rhyme goes"One day, the Devil having nothing to do, built a great hedge from Lerryn to Looe",the general consensus is that this linear earthwork marked the boundary of a post-Roman kingdom.[14]During the mid-18th century, British antiquarianWilliam Borlasebelieved the earthwork to be the remnants of aRoman road,that would connect Looe to theFoweyestuary.[15]Whilst this theory is now disputed by some historians, there has been some archaeological finds, such as a hoard of Roman coins found atLerryn[16]and a possible Roman fort atLanreath,[17]that could back this theory. Other theories suggest that 'Giant's Hedge' is actually far more ancient and may even date back to thebronze age.For example, Dr Keith Ray, the County Archaeologist for Oxfordshire, who is making a special study of the Giant's Hedge, is convinced that it originally continued on the west side of theRiver Foweyand was defended there byCastle Dore.Along the Hedge, there are numerousbronze agebarrows,hillfortsand ancient enclosures.[18]Such as the Hall Rings, Kilminorth fort, the fort at Yearle's Wood and many more. It is likely that the secrets behind 'Giant's Hedge' may never be known, perhaps the history of the Hedge could even be a combination of different time periods.

Image of part of the Giant's Hedge, taken near Lanreath

At the time of theDomesday Bookin 1086 themanorof Pendrym, which included much of the site of modern-day East Looe, was still held byWilliam the Conqueror,as part of his owndemesne,which he later devolved to the Bodgrugan (Bodrigan) family. Land across the river belonged to the manors of Portalla (or Portallant) and Portbyhan (variously spelt Portbyan, Porthbyghan, Porthpyghan, among others).

Shutta, on the steep hillside over East Looe, is recorded as being inhabited by the 12th century.[19]Between 1154 and 1189Henry IIgranted acharterin favour ofSir Henry BodruganasMayorof East Looe. West Looe was given freeboroughstatus sometime after this (the first known historical mention of the town dates from 1327) and in the 1230s East Looe secured the right to hold a weekly market and aMichaelmasfair.East Looe's layout looks like a "planted borough", a concept similar to modernnew towns,since most of its streets form a grid-like pattern.[20]

Low-lying parts of Looe continue to suffer frequentfloodingwhen thetidesare very high. For practical reasons, mostfishermen's houses in ancient Looe, like elsewhere along the south coast, were constructed with their living quarters upstairs and a storage area atground levelbelow: forboats,toolsandfishing tackle,etc;these are termed "fishermen'scellars".[21]

Early churches

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Some time before 1144,the Order of Saint BenedictoccupiedLooe Island,building a chapel there, and the monks established a rudimentary lighthouse service usingbeacons.Another chapel was founded on an opposite hillside just outside West Looe; both are now marked only by ruins.

The parish church of East Looe was atSt Martin by Looebut there was achapel of easein the town.St Mary's Church, East Looewas dedicated in 1259 byWalter Bronscombe,Bishop of Exeter.Despite rebuilding commencing in 1805, it has since fallen into disrepair, although the original Tower still remains. On the centre of the bridge in medieval times stood the Chapel of St Anne (dedicated in 1436): this dedication was attributed to the town chapel byDr George Oliverand has been adopted ever since, displacing that of St Mary.[22]

West Looe comprised part of theparishofTallandsince the earlyMiddle Ages,but a chapel of ease,St Nicholas' Church, West Looewas extant before 1330 when it is recorded as being further endowed and enlarged. After spells as acommon halland a schoolhouse, this building has reverted to its original ecclesiastical use, having been substantially restored in 1852, 1862 and 1915.[22]

Medieval era

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See also:Looe Bridge
Sketchmap of the East and West Looe Rivers

The town was able to provide some 20 ships for theSiege of Calaisin 1347.

An early wooden bridge over the Looe River was in place by 1411; but it burned down and was replaced bythe first stone bridge,completed in 1436. This featured a chapel dedicated toSt Annein the middle. The current bridge, a seven-archedVictorianbridge, was opened in 1853. By that time Looe had become a major port, one of Cornwall's largest, exporting localtin,arsenicandgranite,as well as hosting thrivingfishingandboatbuildingindustries.

With effective civic leadership, Looe thrived in the Middle Ages and Tudor era, being both a busy port and situated with close access to the main road from London toPenzance.By then thetextile industrywas an important part of the town's economy, in addition to the traditional boatbuilding and fishing (particularlypilchardsandcrabs). Trade and transport to and from thrivingNewfoundlandalso contributed to the town's success. TheOld Guildhallin East Looe is believed to have dated from around 1450.[23]

The constituencies ofEast LooeandWest Looewere incorporated asparliamentary boroughsin 1571 and 1553 respectively. They both survived asrotten boroughs.and each returned twoMembers of Parliament(MPs) to theunreformed House of Commonsuntil theGreat Reform Actof 1832. For example,Admiral Sir Charles Wager,a son and grandson of Kentish mariners, was an MP for West Looe early in his political career (1713–1715) and at the end of it (1741–1743). Thesealof East Looe wasblazonedAn antique one-mast vessel in it a man and boy against the side of the hulk three escutcheons each charges with three bends,with the legend "Si, comunetatis de Loo". The seal of West Looe wasAn armed man holding a bow in his right hand and an arrow in his left,with the legend "Por-tu-anvelWys Westlo ".[24]

17th century

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In June 1625, the fishing port of Looe was raided byBarbary pirateswho streamed into the cobbled streets and forced their way into cottages and taverns. Much to their fury, they discovered that the villagers had been forewarned of their arrival and many had fled into the surrounding orchards and meadows to escape. The pirates still managed to seize eighty mariners and fishermen.[25]Those unfortunate individuals were led away in chains toNorth Africato be enslaved, and the town itself was torched.

Example of Elizabethan house in East Looe

19th century

[edit]
The newLooe Guildhallin Fore Street

By the start of the 1800s, Looe's fortunes were in decline. TheNapoleonic Warshad taken their toll on the country; in 1803, the town formed a volunteer company to man guns in defence against attack from the French. The blockade of 1808, which prevented the Looe fleet from reaching their pilchard-fishing areas, also put considerable financial strain on the community. In 1805, the old St. Mary's Chapel (apart from thetower) had to be demolished due to dilapidation, and in 1817, the town was badly damaged by heavy storms and flooding.

With the building of theLiskeard and Looe Union Canallinking Looe toLiskeardin 1828, and the development of boomingcoppermines in theCaradonarea from 1837, Looe's fortunes began to revive. The Herodsfoot mine produced 13,470 tons of lead between 1848 and 1884 and more than 17 tons of silver between 1853 and 1884. The canal was used first to transportlimefromWalesfor use in Cornish farming, and later to carry copper and granite between the railhead at Liskeard (from where rail links reached to theCheesewringonBodmin Moor) and the port of Looe. In 1856 the large quay of East Looe was built to handle the demands of the shipping trade, and in 1860, with the canal unable to keep up with demand, arailwaywas built linking Looe toMoorswaternear Liskeard, along thetowpathof the canal, which was used less and less until, by 1910, traffic ceased entirely. The railway was later linked to Liskeard proper, and as the mining boom came to an end, it adapted to carry passengers in 1879.

In 1866, alifeboatstation had been established on East Looe Beach, and in 1877 a new town hall was built: the newLooe Guildhall.[26]Around this time recommendations were made that the two towns be merged under one governing body, and despite much protestLooe Urban District Councilwas formed in 1898[27]with jurisdiction over the communities on both sides of the River Looe.[28]

20th century and beyond

[edit]
The war memorial
Burgee of Looe Sailing Club, established in 1934

With the Victorian fashion for seaside holidays, Looe evolved as a tourist town, with nearbyTalland Baybeing dubbed "the playground of Plymouth". This trend continued throughout the 20th century; more and more hotels and tourist facilities were built in the town, and Looe grew and prospered, with peaks in fishing and boatbuilding following the First and Second World Wars.

New Zealand writerKatherine Mansfieldstayed in Looe for spring and summer 1918, while recovering fromtuberculosis.[29]She joined there her long-time friend the American painterAnne Estelle Rice,who famously painted her in red.[30]ThePortrait of Katherine Mansfieldmade in Looe has been exhibited since 1946 in theTe Papa Tongarewa museum of New Zealand.

Looe and its surrounds are the filming location of BBC television crime dramaBeyond Paradise,which first aired in 2023. It stands in for the fictional Devon town of Shipton Abbott.[31]

Cornish wrestling

[edit]

There have beenCornish wrestlingtournaments, for prizes, held in Looe (both East Looe[32]and West Looe[33]) for centuries. Venues for tournaments have included: the field at Barbican Farm,[34] the field adjoining the Old Barbican,[35] Looe Beach[36]and West Looe Down.[37]

Looe today

[edit]
West Looe viewed across the river from East Looe

Looe remains a fishing town, and retained several fish dealers operating from the East Looe quayside until the advent of EU regulations.[citation needed]With its fleet of small fishing boats returning their catches to port daily, Looe has a reputation for procuring excellent fresh fish. The town is also a centre for sharkfishing,and is home to theShark Angling Club of Great Britain.[38]

View towards Looe, taken from nearLooe Island

Nonetheless, Looe's main business today is tourism, with much of the town given over to hotels,guest housesandholiday homes,along with a large number ofpubs,restaurantsand beach equipment, ice cream andCornish pastyvendors. Inland from Looe lie many camping andcaravansites, as well as the famousWoolly Monkey Sanctuary.Other local attractions include the beaches, sailing, fishing anddiving,and spectacular coastal walks (especially via Talland toPolperro). South East Cornwall boasts several stately homes, includingAntony House,Cotehele,Mount EdgcumbeandLanhydrock House,as well as theEden ProjectnearSt Austellwhich tourists can access by road.

Outside the busy summer months, the town remains a centre for shopping and entertainment for local villagers. Annually in late September, the town is the destination of choice for thousands of music lovers and top name performers for theLooe Music Festival,which takes place in temporary venues around the town, harbour and on East Looe beach.

There is a tradition of the townsfolk wearingfancy dressonNew Year's Eve,when the streets are thronged with revellers in inventive outfits.[39]Looe has been on the list of the top ten places in the UK to celebrate New Year, and ranked third on the list for 2007–08. Looe is regenerating itself, like many other ports, to serve as a small cargo port. On the high ground north of East and West Looe there are many modern houses and a recreational area called 'the Downs'.

East Looe

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LooeRNLILifeboat Station

East Looe centres on its broad sandy beach, with the distinctiveBanjo Pierdesigned byJoseph Thomas,a new lifeboat station and St Mary's Church. Stretching back from the church is a grid of narrow streets forming the main business area of the town, packed with many small shops, restaurants and pubs and the Old Guildhall, now a museum. Along the estuary lies the quay with its fish merchants. Towards Looe Bridge lies theVictorianGuildhall, and just north of the bridge therailway station.This is theterminusof theLooe Valley branch linetoLiskeard,where it connects to theGreat Western Main Lineand services toLondon Paddington.

On the hilltop above East Looe lies Shutta, and beyond that the Sunrisinghousing estateandLooe Community Academy.[40]Along the cliffs to the east is Plaidy Beach, and further on the bay and village ofMillendreath.

It is covered by theLooe East divisionofCornwall Council.[41]

View down West Looe Hill, looking towards the harbour

West Looe

[edit]

West Looe spreads west from the bridge on the Polperro Road towardsSclerder,and along the river south of the bridge, with hotels, restaurants and boarding houses along the waterfront and houses climbing the perilous cliff above, towards a cluster of shops and businesses and the Church of St. Nicholas.

West Looe rises onto the Downs, a public recreation ground, well known for local dog walkers. Beyond this is West Looe cemetery, as well as Porthbythan Road, Goonwartha Road and Tregarrick.

Further south along the coast road is Hannafore Point, marking the edge of Looe Harbour, with to the west the wide, stony Hannafore Beach, facing across a narrow channel to Looe Island. Beyond lies thecoastal pathleading toPortnadler Bay,Talland andPorthallow,and then onward to Polperro. Two towers mark one end of anautical measured mile,the other end is marked by two towers near Talland Bay.[42]

It is part of theLooe West, Lansallos and Lanteglos divisionofCornwall Council.[41]

New Year festivities

[edit]

OnNew Year's Eve,Looe provides a surprisingly exciting and large celebration. The small fishing town, usually quiet in winter, due to the largely seasonal economy, is host to an influx of visitors. People flock to the streets in their hundreds, wearing fancy dress, a tradition upheld by all ages. The crowds begin the evening in the town and slowly move towards the seafront for a fireworks display to see in the New Year.

Twinning

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Looe istwinnedwithQuiberon(Breton:Kiberen) inBrittany,France.[43]

See also

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References

[edit]
  1. ^abc"List of Place-names agreed by the MAGA Signage Panel"(PDF).Cornish Language Partnership. May 2014. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 29 July 2014.Retrieved11 January2015.
  2. ^"Looe East Ward".Archived fromthe originalon 8 February 2015.Retrieved8 February2015.
  3. ^"Looe West and Lansallos ward".Archived fromthe originalon 8 February 2015.Retrieved8 February2015.
  4. ^Ordnance Survey: Landranger map sheet 201Plymouth & LauncestonISBN978-0-319-23146-3
  5. ^"Background information for Looe and the Looe Harbour".looeharbour.Archivedfrom the original on 23 December 2017.Retrieved26 March2018.
  6. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved12 October2022.
  7. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved11 October2022.
  8. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved11 October2022.
  9. ^ab"Pastscape - Detailed Result: MONUMENT NO. 434864".pastscape.org.uk.Retrieved21 January2020.
  10. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved11 October2022.
  11. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved12 October2022.
  12. ^ab"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved15 October2022.
  13. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved15 October2022.
  14. ^"Giant's Hedge Cornwall, tourist guide & map, events, accommodation, businesses, history, photos, videos".intocornwall.Retrieved19 October2022.
  15. ^Grigg, Erik."Dark Age dykes of Cornwall".{{cite journal}}:Cite journal requires|journal=(help)
  16. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved19 October2022.
  17. ^"Heritage Gateway - Results".heritagegateway.org.uk.Retrieved19 October2022.
  18. ^"Giant's Hedge".
  19. ^"Looe Cornwall geography, history, accommodation, events and Looe guide".ilovelooe.co.uk.Archivedfrom the original on 27 March 2018.Retrieved26 March2018.
  20. ^Council, Cornwall."Looe area - Cornwall Council".cornwall.gov.uk.Archivedfrom the original on 27 March 2018.Retrieved26 March2018.
  21. ^ncl.ac.ukArchived29 November 2014 at theWayback Machine
  22. ^abCornish Church Guide(1925) Truro: Blackford; pp. 148-49
  23. ^"The Old Guildhall Museum, Looe".Welcome to Looe.Retrieved9 August2023.
  24. ^Pascoe, W. H. (1979).A Cornish Armory.Padstow, Cornwall: Lodenek Press. p. 133.ISBN0-902899-76-7.
  25. ^"White Gold: The Extraordinary Story of Thomas Pellow and Islam's One Million White Slaves".worldcat.org.Retrieved21 January2020.
  26. ^Historic England."Guildhall (1280863)".National Heritage List for England.Retrieved9 August2023.
  27. ^Byron, G.W. (1977)."Journal of the Marine Biological Association of the United Kingdom".57(1): 75–92.doi:10.1017/S002531540002124X.S2CID84478616.Archivedfrom the original on 25 July 2015.Retrieved21 July2015.{{cite journal}}:Cite journal requires|journal=(help)
  28. ^Keast, John (1987).A History of East and West Looe.Phillimore. p. 79.ISBN978-0850336153.in 1898 the Looe Urban District Council came into being, comprising East and West Looe and part of the parish of Talland, and taking over management of the East Looe Town Trust
  29. ^"'That brick red frock with flowers everywhere': painting Katherine Mansfield ".theartsdesk.15 June 2018.Retrieved18 September2018.
  30. ^"Loading... | Collections Online - Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa".collections.tepapa.govt.nz.Retrieved18 September2018.
  31. ^Aplin, Lucy (15 February 2023)."Beyond Paradise filming location in Cornwall for the BBC's Death in Paradise spin-off series".inews.co.uk.
  32. ^Morning Advertiser, 29 May 1829.
  33. ^Western Times, 22 May 1830.
  34. ^Cornish & Devon Post, 12 October 1907.
  35. ^Cornish Guardian, 11 October 1907.
  36. ^Cornish Guardian, 22 August 1935.
  37. ^Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle, 23 May 1830.
  38. ^"Shark Angling Club of Great Britain".Shark Angling Club of Great Britain. Archived fromthe originalon 6 September 2010.Retrieved7 August2010.
  39. ^Createanet."BIKINI GIRL - EAST LOOE, CORNWALL - The Jolly Roger - Life Size 3D Models - Resin Figures".lifesize-models.co.uk.Archivedfrom the original on 27 March 2018.Retrieved26 March2018.
  40. ^http:// looe.cornwall.sch.ukArchived8 June 2014 at theWayback MachineLooe Community Academy
  41. ^ab"Cornwall Council Interactive Map".Cornwall Council.Retrieved22 February2021.
  42. ^Tony White (March 2003)."Nautical Measured Mile Markers".Polperro village website.Archivedfrom the original on 27 July 2011.
  43. ^"looetowncouncil.gov.uk".Archived fromthe originalon 29 November 2014.
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