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Men's skirts

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Sumerian men's skirt (Kaunakes), ca. 3.000 BC
A modern utility kilt

Outside Western cultures, men'sclothingcommonly includesskirtsand skirt-like garments; however, in the Americas and much of Europe, skirts are usually seen as feminine clothing andsocially stigmatizedfor men and boys to wear, despite having done so for centuries.[1]While there are exceptions, most notably thecassockand thekilt,these are not generally considered skirts in the typical sense of fashion wear; rather they are worn as cultural and vocational garments. People have variously attempted to promote the fashionable wearing of skirts by men in Western culture and to do away with thisgender distinction.

In Western cultures

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Ancient times

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Skirts have been worn since prehistoric times. They were the standard dressing for men and women in all ancient cultures in theMiddle East.

The Kingdom ofSumerinMesopotamiarecorded two categories of clothing. The ritual attire for men was a fur skirt tied to a belt calledKaunakes.The term kaunakes, which originally referred to a sheep's fleece, was later applied to the garment itself. The animal pelts originally used were replaced by kaunakes cloth, a textile that imitated fleecy sheep skin.[2]Kaunakes cloth also served as a symbol in religious iconography, as the fleecy cloak ofSt. John the Baptist.[3][4]

Depictions of kings and their attendants fromBabyloniaon monuments like the Black Obelisk of Salmanazar show men wearing fringed cloths wrapped around their sleeved tunics.[5]

Ancient Egyptiangarments were mainly made of white linen.[6]The exclusive use of draped linen garments, and the wearing of similar styles by men and women, remained almost unaltered as the main features of Ancient Egyptian costume. From about 2130 BC during theOld Kingdom of Egypt,men also wore wrap around skirts (kilts) known as theshendyt,They were made of a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the lower body and tied in front. By theMiddle Kingdom of Egyptthere was a fashion for longer kilts, almost like skirts, reaching from the waist to ankles, sometimes hanging from the armpits. During theNew Kingdom of Egypt,kilts with a pleated triangular section became fashionable for men.[7]Beneath was worn a triangularloincloth,or shente,[what language is this?]whose ends were fastened with cord ties.[8]

InAncient Greecethe simple, sleeved T-shaped tunics were constructed of three seamed tubes of cloth, a style that originated in the Semitic Near East, along with theSemitic-based word khiton, also referred to as achiton.[9]The belted worn linen chiton was the primary garment for men and women.[10]

  • Statue of Ramaat, an official from Gizeh wearing a pleated Egyptian kilt, ca. 2.250 BC
    Statue of Ramaat, an official from Gizeh wearing a pleated Egyptian kilt, ca. 2.250 BC
  • A Greek charioteer from Delphi wearing a long chiton, ca. 470 BC
    A Greek charioteer from Delphi wearing a long chiton, ca. 470 BC
  • An illustration from between 1325 and 1335 showing an English man in a skirted garment
    An illustration from between 1325 and 1335 showing an English man in a skirted garment
  • Men's dress made of red silk (1480–90) to be buttoned on the front, History Museum of Bern (Switzerland)
    Men's dress made of red silk (1480–90) to be buttoned on the front, History Museum of Bern (Switzerland)
  • Duke Ulrich of Mecklenburg wearing a doublet and diverted skirt with codpiece and black tights, (1573)
    Duke Ulrich of Mecklenburg wearing a doublet and diverted skirt withcodpieceand black tights, (1573)
  • Henry VIII wearing a doublet and diverted skirt with codpiece
    Henry VIIIwearing a doublet and diverted skirt withcodpiece

TheRomansadopted many facets of Greek culture, including the same manner of dressing. TheCeltsandGermanic peopleswore a skirted garment which the historianDiodorus Siculus(fl. 1st century BC) called chiton. Below they wore knee-length trousers. TheAnglo-Saxons,Normans,Franksand other people of Western and Northern Europe continued this fashion well into theMiddle Ages,as can be seen in theBayeux Tapestry.[11]

Victorian interpretation of the Normans' (1000–1100) national dress

Technological advances in weaving with foot-treadle floorloomsand the use ofscissorswith pivoted blades and handles in the 13–15th century led to new designs. The upper part of dresses could now be tailored exactly to the body. Men's dresses were buttoned on the front and women's dresses got adécolletage.The lower part of men's dresses were much shorter in length than those for women. They were wide cut and often pleated with an A-line so that horse riding became more comfortable. Even aknightsarmor had a short metal skirt below the breastplate. It covered the straps attaching the upper legs iron cuisse to the breastplate.[12][13]Other similar garments worn by men around the world include the Greek and Balkanfustanella(a short flared cotton skirt)

Decline

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The innovative new techniques especially improved tailoring trousers and tights, which require more differently cut pieces of cloth than most skirts do in their designs. "Real" trousers and tights increasingly replaced the prevalent use of thehose (clothing)which like stockings covered only the legs and had to be attached with garters to underpants or adoublet.[14]A skirt-like garment to cover the crotch and bottom were no longer necessary. In an intermediate stage to openly wearing trousers the upper classes favoured voluminous pantskirts and diverted skirts like the paddedhoseor the latterpetticoat breeches.[15]

Though during most of history, men and especially dominant men have been colourful in pants and skirts like Hindumaharajasdecked out in silks and diamonds or the high heeledKing Louis XIVof France with a diverted skirt, stockings and long wig.[16]TheFrench Revolutionand theIndustrial Revolutionchanged the dress code for men and women not only in France. From the earlyVictorian era,there was a decline in the wearing of bright colours and luxurious fabrics by men, with a definite preference for sobriety of dress.[17][18][19]This phenomenon the English psychologistJohn Flügeltermed "The Great Masculine Renunciation".[20]Skirts were effeminized."Henceforth trousers became the ultimate clothing for men to wear, while women had their essential frivolity forced on them by the dresses and skirts they were expected to wear".[21]By the mid-20th century, orthodox Western male dress, especially business and semi-formal dress, was dominated by sober suits, plain shirts and ties. The connotation of trousers as exclusively male has been lifted by the power of thefeminist movementwhile the connotation of skirts as female is largely still existing leaving the Scottishkiltand the Albanian and Greekfustanellaas the only traditional men's skirts of Europe.

Revival

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In the 1960s, there was a widespread reaction against the accepted North American and European conventions of "male and female dresses". Thisunisexfashion movement aimed to eliminate the sartorial differences between men and women. In practice, it usually meant that women would wear male dresses, i.e. shirts and trousers. Men rarely went as far in the adoption of traditionally female dress modes.

Some exceptions were the costumes of pop musicians.Mick Jaggerof theRolling Stoneswore a white dress over white trousers for their 1969Stones in the ParkConcert, whileDavid Bowieappeared in a patterned silk dress on the cover of his 1971 album 'The Man who sold the World'. Both men, particularly Bowie, experimented with androgynous fashion styles throughout the 1970s.[22][23][24]

However, the furthest most men went in the 1960s in adopting feminine attire were velvet trousers, flowered or frilled shirts, ties, and long hair.[25]

In the 1970s, David Hall, a former research engineer at the Stanford Research Institute (SRI), actively promoted the use of skirts for men, appearing on bothThe Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carsonand thePhil Donahue Show.In addition, he was featured in many articles at the time.[26]In his essay "Skirts for Men: the advantages and disadvantages of various forms of bodily covering", he opined that men should wear skirts for both symbolic and practical reasons. Symbolically, wearing skirts would allow men to take on desirable female characteristics. In practical terms, skirts, he suggested, do not chafe around the groin, and they are more suited to warm climates.

A saxophone player wearing a skirt.
Man in tartan-patterned skirt.

In the early 1980sBoy Georgeof successful pop groupCulture Clubbrought androgynous dressing to a wide audience, wearing long skirts or dresses, makeup and long hair.[27][28]

1985 the Frenchfashion designerJean-Paul Gaultiercreated his first skirt for men. Transgressing social codes Gaultier frequently introduces the skirt into his men's wear collections as a means of injecting novelty into male attire, most famously the sarong seen onDavid Beckham.[29]Other famous designers such asVivienne Westwood,Giorgio Armani,John Galliano,Kenzo,Rei KawakuboandYohji Yamamotoalso created men's skirts.[30]In the USMarc Jacobsbecame the most prominent supporter of the skirt for men. The Milan men's fashion shows and the New York fashion shows frequently show skirts for men.Jonathan Davis,the lead singer ofKorn,has been known to wear kilts at live shows and in music videos throughout his 18-year career with that band.Mick Jaggerfrom theRolling StonesandAnthony Kiedisfrom theRed Hot Chili Pepperswere photographed wearing dresses byAnton Corbijn.[31]For anFCKH8anti-discrimination campaignIggy Popwas seen wearing a black dress and handbag.Guns N' Roses' singer,Axl Rose,was known to wear men's skirts during theUse Your Illusionperiod.Robbie WilliamsandMartin GorefromDepeche Modealso performed on stage in skirts. During his Berlin time (1984–1985) Martin Gore was often seen in public wearing skirts. In an interview with the Pop Special Magazin (7/1985) he said: "Sexual barriers and gender roles are old fashioned and out. [...] I and my girlfriend often share our clothes and make-up". Brand NubianLord JamarcriticizedKanye Westfor wearing skirts, saying that his style has no place in hip-hop.[32][33]

In 2008 in France, an association was created to help spur the revival of the skirt for men.[34] Hot weather has also encouraged use. In June 2013, male Swedish train drivers, whose cabins reached up to 35 °C (95 °F) in the summer heat, wore skirts to circumvent and protest a ban on wearing shorts. The ban was subsequently lifted.[35][36]In July 2013, parents supported boys wearing skirts atGowerton Comprehensive SchoolinWales.[37]

America is also not without its own contemporary advocates of skirts as menswear. One male blogger denies that skirts are exclusively feminine garments and suggests that the prevailing societal view reflects a "symbology of power" that persisted even in wake of thewomen's liberation movement.[38]He suggests an apparent causality paradox in the perception of skirts as exclusively womenswear: "are skirts perceived as feminine because women wear them or do women wear them because skirts are perceived as feminine?"[39]Though lamenting the lack of skirts designed specifically for men, he discusses in detail how to "advance a viewpoint of masculine aesthetics" in his how-to guide for men.[39]Other internet denizens echo these sentiments (with varying degrees of anonymity) in the "Skirt Cafe" internet forum "dedicated to exploring, promoting and advocating skirts and kilts as a fashion choice for men."[40]The forum's moderators conspicuously assert that "this is NOT a transvestite or crossdresser forum. We are committed to a fundamentally masculine gender identity."[41]

Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition

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In 2003, theMetropolitan Museum of Artdisplayed an exhibition, organized byAndrew BoltonandHarold Kodaof the Museum's Costume Institute and sponsored byGaultier,entitledBravehearts: Men in Skirts.[42]The idea of the exhibition was to explore how various groups and individuals (fromhippiesthrough pop stars to fashion designers) have promoted the idea of men wearing skirts as "the future of menswear". It displayed men's skirts on mannequins, as if in the window of a department store, in several historical and cross-cultural contexts.[43]

The exhibition display pointed out the lack of a "natural link" between an item of clothing and the masculinity or femininity of the wearer, mentioning thekiltas "one of the most potent, versatile, and enduring skirt forms often looked upon by fashion designers as a symbol of a natural, uninhibited, masculinity". It pointed out that fashion designers and male skirt-wearers employ the wearing of skirts for three purposes: to transgress conventional moral and social codes, to redefine the ideal of masculinity, and to inject novelty into male fashion. It linked the wearing of men's skirts to youth movements andcountercultural movementssuch aspunk,grunge,andglam rockand to pop-music icons such asBoy George,MiyaviandAdrian Young.[43]Many male musicians have worn skirts and kilts both on and off stage. The wearing of skirts by men is also found in thegoth subculture.

Elizabeth Ellsworth, a professor ofmedia studies,[44]eavesdropped on several visitors to the exhibition, noting that because of the exhibition's placement in a self-contained space accessed by a staircase at the far end of the museum's first floor, the visitors were primarily self-selected as those who would be intrigued enough by such an idea in the first place to actually seek it out. According to her report, the reactions were wide-ranging, from the number of women who teased their male companions about whether they would ever consider wearing skirts (to which several men responded that they would) to the man who said, "A caftan after a shower or in the gym? Can you imagine? 'Excuse me! Coming through!'". An adolescent girl rejected in disgust the notion that skirts were similar to the wide pants worn byhip-hopartists. Two elderly women called the idea "utterly ridiculous". One man, reading the exhibition's presentation on the subject of male skirt-wearing in cultures other than those in North America and Europe, observed, "God! Three quarters of the world's population [wear skirts]!"[43]

The exhibition itself attempted to provoke visitors into considering how, historically, male-dress codes have come to this point and whether in fact a trend towards the wearing of skirts by men in the future actually exists. It attempted to raise challenging questions of how a simple item of dress connotes (in Ellsworth's words) "huge ramifications in meanings, behaviours, everyday life, senses of self and others, and configurations of insider and outsider".[43]

Other exhibitions

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A number of men's skirts and skirted garments featured in the 2022 exhibition at theVictoria and Albert Museumin London entitledFashioning Masculinities: the art of menswear,[45][46]which illustrated the history of men's fashion in western Europe, and its relationship to perceptions of masculinity, using historical and contemporary material.

Contemporary styles

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The wearing of skirts, kilts, or similar garments on an everyday basis by men in Western cultures is an extremely small minority.[citation needed]One manufacturer of contemporary kilt styles claims to sell over 12,000 such garments annually,[47]resulting in over $2 million annually worth of sales, and has appeared at a major fashion show.[48]According to aCNNcorrespondent: "At Seattle's Fremont Market, men are often seen sporting theUtilikilt."[49]In 2003,US Newssaid that "... the Seattle-made utilikilt, a rugged, everyday riff on traditional Scottish garb, has leapt from idea to over 10,000 sold in just three years, via the Web and word of mouth alone."[50]"They've become a common sight around Seattle, especially in funkier neighbourhoods and at the city's many alternative cultural events. They often are worn with chunky black boots," writes AP reporter Anne Kim.[51]"I actually see more people wearing kilts in Seattle than I did when I lived in Scotland," one purchaser remarked in 2003.[52]

In addition, since the mid-1990s, a number of clothing companies have been established to sell skirts specifically designed for men. These include Macabi Skirt in the 1990s, Menintime in 1999, Midas Clothing in 2002[53]and Skirtcraft in 2015.[54]

In 2010, the fashion chainH&Mfeatured skirts for men in its lookbook.[55]

In 2018,Zaraadded a skirt for men in its Reshape collection.[56]

In 2023, the fashion chain Horsmens Fashion featured skirts for men in its lookbook.[57]

Wicca and neo-paganism

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InWiccaandneopaganism,especially in the United States, men (just as women) are encouraged to question their traditional gender roles. Amongst other things, this involves the wearing of robes at festivals andsabbatcelebrations as ritual clothing (which Eilers equates to the "church clothes" worn by Christians on Sundays).[58][59]Somedenominations(called 'traditions') of Wicca even encourage their members to includerobes,tunics,cloaks,and other such garments in their day-to-day wardrobes.

In non-Western cultures

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A group of upper-class Albanians

Outside Western cultures, male clothing includes skirts and skirt-like garments.[60]One common form is a single sheet of fabric folded and wrapped around the waist, such as thedhoti,veshtiorlungiin India, and thesaronginSoutheast Asia.InMyanmarboth women and men wear alongyi,a wraparound tubular skirt that reaches to the ankles for women and to mid-calf for men.[61]There are different varieties and names of sarong depending on whether the ends are sewn together or simply tied. There is a difference in the way adhotiandlungiis worn. While alungiis more like a wrap around, wearing the dhoti involves the creation of pleats by folding it. A dhoti also passes between the legs making it more like a folded loose trouser rather than a skirt.

InSub-Saharan Africa,sarong-like garments sometimes worn by men are known askanga(or khanga),kitenge(or chitenje),kikoy,andlappa.[62]InMadagascarthey are known aslamba.In West AfricaGhanaianchiefs use the iconickentecloths for their representative chiton-like wraparound garments. Extremely beautiful are the leather skirts and finely embroidered tunics of theWodaabeinNiger,which the men wear to display their enhanced beauty and to impress the unmarried women on theGerewoldance festivals.[63]In Central Africa the formal attire of aKubaofficial needs a red-black-white raffia-cloth skirt with bobble fringe.[64]

A Malayalee man from Kerala wearing a dhoti.
A Sri Lankan man wearing a lungi.

The SamoanLavalavais a wraparound "skirt". These are worn by men, women and children. The women's lavalava pattern usually have either traditional symbols and/or a flower (frangipani) pattern. The men's lavalava have only traditional symbols. A blue lavalava is the official skirt for the police officers uniform ofSamoa.

InSikhism,a faith that originated in thePunjab,there is a traditional dress which is worn by both men and women, called a 'baana' or 'chola'. This dress has a skirted bottom and is worn over long white undershorts. It was traditionally worn in battle bySikhwarriors as it allowed free movement and remains a part of the traditional Sikh dress and identity.

For thehajj,the annual pilgrimage to Mecca, Muslim men wear theihram,a simple, seamless garment made of white, terry clothlike cotton. One piece is wound skirt-like around the lower half of the body; the other is thrown loosely over one shoulder.[65]TheQahtanisheep herders in the Southern Asir provence wear ankle-length skirt-like kilts. InYemenstandard dress is a calf-length, wraparound skirt, thefutah.ThePalestiniansof the Eastern Mediterranean traditionally wear the qumbaz, an ankle-length unisex garment, which opens all the way down the front with the right side brought over the left, under the arm, and then fastened.[66]

Pakoe Boewono Xwearing abatiksarong,a common garment forJavaneseto this day.

The Pacificlava-lava(similar to a sarong), the Fi giansulu vakataga,[67]some forms of Japanesehakamaand the Bhutanesegho.The Fi giansuluis a long bark cloth skirt for men as well as women. It is still worn as Fi gian national dress, in one of the more obvious versions of invented traditions, though today the cloth will be cotton or other woven material. A Fi gian aristocrat will even wear a pin-stripe sulu to accompany a dress and tie, as full court dress.[68]

Man wears pleated hakama to celebrateSeijin shiki
A Chinese man wearing aqun,Qing dynasty painting, 1723—1735

InChina,skirts that are calledqun( váy ) orchang( thường ) inChinesewere also worn by men, as well as robes known aspaofuandshenyi,from ancient times until the end of theQing dynastyin 1911. TheQinwarriors of the first dynasty of Imperial China, wore a skirt-like tunic and a protective cuirass of bronze plates as can be seen on the excavated figures of the famousTerracotta Army;the entertainers figures together with the Terracotta Army also wore short skirts varying from knee-length to mid-thighs.[69]Portraits and statues of the revered Chinese scholar,Confuciusshow him wearing ample, enveloping silk robes.[70]

In Japan there are two types of thehakamafor men to wear, the dividedumanori( mã thừa り, "horse-riding hakama" ) and the undividedandon hakama( hành đèn khố, "lantern hakama" ). Theumanoritype has divided legs, similar to diverted skirts and pantskirts. Thehakamais everyday attire for Shintokannushipriests who perform services atshrines.Until the 1940s thehakamaused to be a required part of common men's wear. Today Japanese men usually wear thehakamaonly on formal occasions liketea ceremonies,weddings, and funerals. Thehakamais also worn by practitioners of a variety ofmartial arts,such askendo.[71]

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One notable example of men wearing skirts in fiction is in early episodes of the science fiction TV programStar Trek: The Next Generation.The uniforms worn in the first and second season included a variant consisting of a short sleeved top, with attached skirt. This variant was seen worn by both male and female crew members. The bookThe Art of Star Trekexplained that "the skirt design for men 'skant' was a logical development, given the total equality of the sexes presumed to exist in the 24th century."[72]However, perhaps reflecting the expectations of the audience, the "skant" was dropped by the third season of the show.

Other examples

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Dance

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In some Western dance cultures, men commonly wear skirts and kilts. These include a broad range of professional dance productions where they may be worn to improve the artistic effect of the choreography,[73]a style known ascontra dance,where they are worn partly for ventilation and partly for the swirling movement, gayline dancingclubs where kilts are often worn,[74]and revellers in Scottish nightclubs where they are worn to express cultural identity.

See also

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References

[edit]
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  9. ^Rief Anawalt, Patricia (2007): The Worldwide History of Dress. London: Thames & Hudson. p. 88
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  67. ^Findlay, Rosie (29 January 2014)."Why don't more men wear skirts?".The Conversation.Archived fromthe originalon 10 October 2016.
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