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Mexican wine

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For the Fountains of Wayne song "Mexican Wine", seeWelcome Interstate Managers.
Grapes during pigmentation inValle de Guadalupe,Baja California.

Mexican wineandwinemaking began with thearrival of the Spanishin the 16th century, when they broughtvinesfrom Europe to modern day Mexico, the oldest wine-growing region in theAmericas.Although there were indigenous grapes before the Spanish conquest, the Spaniards found that Spanish grapevines also did very well in the colony ofNew Spain(Mexico) and by the 17th century wine exports from Spain to theNew Worldfell. In 1699,Charles II of Spainprohibited wine making in Mexico, with the exception of wine for Church purposes.[1]From then untilMexico’s Independence,wine was produced in Mexico only on a small scale.[2]

After Independence, wine making for personal purposes was no longer prohibited and production rose, especially in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Many other European immigrant groups helped with the comeback of wine in Mexico. However, theMexican Revolutionset back wine production, especially in the north of the country.[3]Wine production in Mexico has been rising in both quantity and quality since the 1980s, although competition from foreign wines and 40% tax on the product makes competing difficult within Mexico. Mexico is not traditionally a wine-drinking country, but rather prefersbeer,tequilaandmezcal.Interest in Mexican wine, especially in the major cities and tourists areas (along with the introduction into the US on a small scale), has grown along with Mexican wines’ reputation throughout the world. Many Mexican companies have received numerous awards.[4]Various wine producers from Mexico have won international awards for their products.[3]In 2020, the wine Don Leo Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon won gold in the International Cabernet competition (CIDC) and the trophy for the world's best Cabernet.[5]The wine is produced in Parras, Coahuila in the Northwestern region of Mexico.

There are three major wine-producing areas in Mexico, with theBaja Californiaarea producing 90% of Mexico’s wine.[2]This area is promoted heavily forenotourismwith the “Ruta del Vino” (Wine Route), which connects over fifty wineries with theport of Ensenadaand the border and the annual Vendimia harvest festival.[6]

History of wine making in Mexico

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Celebration of the first harvest of Vineyard inSan Miguel de Allende,Guanajuato.
Vineyard inSan Miguel de Allende,Guanajuato

According to legend,Hernán Cortésand his soldiers quickly depleted the wine they brought with them from Spain celebrating the conquest of the Aztec Empire in 1521. Because of this, one of Cortés’ first acts as governor was to order the planting ofgrapevinesthroughoutNew Spain.[1]

In the early colonial era, ships arriving to Mexico and Spain’s other colonies carried grapevines.[1]In certain areas, Spaniards found a native type of grapevine, but it did not lend itself well to winemaking.[3]However, vines from Europe grew very well here, and they were planted in monasteries and haciendas in the states ofPuebla,Coahuila,Zacatecasand others.[1][2]

In 1597,Casa Maderowas founded byLorenzo Garcíain the town ofSanta María de las Parras(Holy Mary of the Grapevines) as the oldest winery in the Americas.[2]This area of Coahuila soon became a major wine producer due to its climate and good supplies of water. Thevinesthat were established here were later exported to theNapa Valleyin California and South America.[3]

Vineyardsin the Americas, especially New Spain were successful enough that wine exports from Spain to America plummeted.[1]Because of this, the government of Charles II decided to prohibit the production of wine in Spain’s colonies, especially Mexico, except for the making of wine for the Church in 1699. That prohibition stayed in force until Mexico’s Independence.[1][3][7]However, many missionaries refused to abide by the edict and continued to produce wine for normal consumption on a small scale.[2]One of these wasJesuitpriestJuan Ugarte,who planted the first vines in Baja California when he arrived at theLoretomission in 1701.[1]

From the end of the 18th century to the middle of the 19th, most wine production was done by clergy. The Santo Tomás Mission, founded in Baja California byJesuitpriests in 1791, reactivated larger scale production of wine in Mexico. In 1843,Dominicanpriests began growing grapes at the nearby Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe del Norte mission, located in what is now calledValle de Guadalupe.This valley is one of the few in the world, along with others such as the Napa Valley and theRhone Valley,in which premium wine grapes can be grown.[2][better source needed]

In the 1850s, as part of Mexico’sReform War,many of the Church’s land holdings were taken by the state. Most of the small wineries tended by missionaries were eventually abandoned. In 1888, the former lands of the Santo Tomás Mission were sold to a private group, which established the first large-scale commercial winery and the earliest winery in continuous operation, called Bodegas Santo Tomás.[2][7]Initially, the wine made by the group was sweet and of low quality.[7]

Freixenetwine cellar inQuerétaro

During the period of Mexican history known as thePorfiriato(1880–1910), wine production in Mexico increased and spread to other regions of the country.[3]In the Baja California area in 1904, Russian immigrants known asMolokans,a pacifist religious group fleeing service in theTsar's army,purchased 40 hectares (100 acres) of land and began producing wine grapes. They encouraged others to do the same, helping the area acquire a reputation for making good wine.[8]However, winemaking was set back by theMexican Revolutionas many lands were abandoned by their owners or destroyed by the rebels.[3]

Wine making in Mexico began to experience a comeback in the 1980s,[3][4]with wine production peaking at four million cases a year in the latter part of the decade.[4]However, the 1980s also opened Mexico’s small wine market to foreign competition, which hurt it.[9]Baja California, which produces 90% of Mexico’s wine, only sells about 1.5 million cases a year today, but the quality of this wine is generally higher.[4]

Since the 1980s, wine production, especially in Baja California, has been steadily improving with better tending of vineyards and incorporating modern advancements in winemaking.[8]Most wineries here are young, established only since the 1980s and 1990s,[7]but some enthusiasts are calling the Valley of Guadalupe area the “nextNapa Valley.”[9]The wine industry is growing rapidly and the quality of the wine is improving.[10]Mexican wine can be found in 38 countries in the world and many vintages have won international awards.[3]

Wine consumption in Mexico today

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Wine stand at a market for artisanal foods in theParque LincolnofPolanco, Mexico City.

Despite Mexico’s Spanish heritage, it is not a major wine-drinking country;beerandtequilaare far more popular than wine.[4]Average wine consumption per capita is only two glasses a year.[11]The Mexican government imposes taxes of 40% per bottle, making it hard to compete with beer and tequila.[9]However, consumption of wine in Mexico is growing, with imports of wine in 2005 being nearly four times higher than ten years before.[12]Most wine is consumed in major cities such asMexico City,Monterrey,GuadalajaraandPuebla,[11]and is also commonly found in thetouristareas, such asCancúnandCabo San Lucas.[4][7]

Most of the wine consumed in Mexico is imported from Europe,Chile,AustraliaandNew Zealand,with about forty percent coming from domestic wineries.[12]However, wine consumption continues to grow with one factor being increased interest in it by themiddle classes,especially in Mexico City.[7]As the reputation of Mexican wines increases, preference for native wines is also increasing in Mexico. At one time, no sophisticated restaurant in Mexico City would serve Mexican wine. Today, newer restaurants always include selections from Mexico on their wine lists.[4][9]

While wine drinking is not widespread in Mexico, the consumption ofbrandy,or distilled wine, is. Brandy is the most widespreaddistilled liquorin Mexico.[13]It is even more popular than rum or tequila.[14]Mexico is the fourth largest consumer of brandy in the world behind thePhilippines,GermanyandEquatorial Guinea.[15]The last of Mexico's tariffs on imported brandy were lifted in the first decade of the 21st century, with sales and consumption expected to rise.[13]

Wine producing areas and vintages in Mexico

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Nearly 2,500 hectares (6,200 acres) are planted to grapes in Mexico. Principal white wine grapes includechenin blanc,chardonnay,sauvignon blancandviognier,and reds include all fiveBordeaux varietalsplusGrenache,tempranillo,dolcetto,syrahandpetite sirah.[10]

States that producetable grapes(light purple) and wine (dark purple)

There are three areas in Mexico where wine grapes are grown. The North area includes Baja California andSonora;theLa Lagunaarea is in Coahuila andDurangoand the Center area consists of Zacatecas,AguascalientesandQuerétaro.Most of these areas have a fairly warm climate, which tend to make Mexican wines spicy, full-bodied andripe;however, Northern Baja California's humid winters, dry warm summers and sea breezes allow for most of the same varietals produced in California.[1] The La Laguna region is the oldest wine-making area of Mexico, and straddles the states of Coahuila and Durango, with grapes thriving in the Parras Valley. This valley is amicroclimatein the desert area of these states at an altitude of 1,500 meters.[11]The valley has warm days, cool nights and low humidity which inhibits insect andfungusdamage to the vines. Mountain springs provide sufficient water in this arid part of Mexico.[1]The temperature difference of 12 °C (22 °F) between day and night is also beneficial to the grapes.[11]The valley primarily produces reds based on Bordeaux such ascabernet sauvignon,Shiraz,merlotand Tempranillo. Some whites are produced as well.[1]More than 400 families come to the Parras Valley in August and September for the annual grape harvest called “la vendimia.”[16]

The most important winery here is Casa Madero, the oldest winery in theNew World,founded in 1597 as Hacienda San Lorenzo. This label includes a range of varietals, with its chardonnay, chenin blanc and Syrah winning awards. Its brandies are considered among the best in Mexico. Another important winery here is Bodegas Ferrino, founded by a 19th-century Italian immigrant near the town ofCuatro Ciénegas.[1]

Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California

Another interesting winery is located inTarahumaracountry at the edge of theCopper Canyonin Chihuahua, in a small valley namedCerocahui.In 1680, Father Juan María de Salvaterra arrived here to establish a mission. Later, Jesuits broughtcuttingsof French and Spanish vines. When the Jesuits were forced out of Mexico in the 18th century, the Cerocahui vineyards were destroyed except for a few cuttings secretly kept and grown by the José María Sánchez family. These vines were cared for by the family until the late 20th century, when the last of the family died without heirs. The gardener for the family saved cuttings from the vines and with the Misión Hotel and planted them at what was the Girls Boarding School. Since then the town has had over 4,000 vines under cultivation and a winery has been established at the hotel.[17]

Bottle of L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2006.

The Center region consists of areas in Querétaro, Zacatecas and Aguascalientes. Most vineyards are found at an altitude of 2,000 metres (6,500 ft), and most of the wine produced here is of the sparkling variety. However, other types such asSauvignon blanc,Cabernet Sauvignon andPinot noircan be found as well. The best-known vintner here is the Mexican operation of Spain’sFreixenetwinery. This label is known for dry sparkling wines called “vinos espumosos” (sparkling wines), which come in satiny black bottles and based onDom Pérignon’s champagne fermentation methods. Some still red wines are also produced. Another major producer is Companía Vinícola Los Eucaliptos in the town ofEzequiel Montes.A locally known label is Vinos Hidalgo La Madrileña in theSan Juan del Ríoregion.[1]Los Azteca Hacienda Mexicana dates back to the 18th century which recently became a winery. Another vintner called La Ronda specializes in growing grapes to makeKosher winesold in certain markets in Mexico City.[18]

Most vineyards in Zacatecas are in the municipalities ofOjocalienteandValle de la Macarena.This area has very cool winters and fairly cool summers, which combined with its moisture-holding clay soils is best for fast-maturing grapes with a high sugar content. A number of European red varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot are grown here as well as American varieties such aszinfandel,Black Spanish and Lenoir. Some white grapes also do well here. Wineries here are smaller operations than in other parts of the country, with the best known local label being Casa Cachola just outsideValle de las Arcinas.[1]

Adobe Guadalupe wine cellar in Baja California

The North zone produces ninety percent of Mexico’s wines today, with almost all of that coming from three regions not far from the port city of Ensenada: the San Antonio de las Minas zone, which includes the Valley of Guadalupe, the San Vicente Valley and the Santo Tomás Valley.[1][2][8]This area is noted for its deep granite soils, warm sunny days, and nights cool due to breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean. The area is ideal for both red and white wines, and one of the few locales in the world that can grow grapes for world-class wines.[2][4]Grapes for Baja California wines are also grown in areas in neighboring Sonora state.[2]The varieties of red wine produced in the Baja California region are Cabernet Sauvignon,Ruby Cabernet,Zinfandel,Grenache. and Mission. The white wines are Chenin Blanc,Palomino,Riesling,Sauvignon Blanc,Sémillon,Saint Emilion, and Malaga.[2]There are three major wine producers in this area, Vinos L.A. Cetto in the Calafia Valley, Vinos Pedro Domecq and Bodegas de Santo Tomás in the Santo Tomás Valley. All have had wines that won international competitions including the Double Gold won byL.A. Cettoat the San Francisco International Wine Competition in May 2009. Many of these wines are now exported to Europe, the U.S. and Canada, and most wineries offer tours andwine tasting.[19]

Most of Mexico’s wine innovation occurs in the Ensenada area, in the form of the so-called “boutique”producers such as Casa de Piedra, whose first vintage was produced in 1997. This operation only produces one white, called Piedra del Sol and a red called Vino de Piedra. Another small producer is Viña de Liceaga, which produces reds.[8]Don Miller owns a ranch and winery called Casa Adobe Guadalupe with a wine school here to help small producers make a profit and draw tourists. There is even one organic wine producer by the name of Doña Lupe.[9]

Enotourism and festivals in Mexico

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Vineyard inValle de Guadalupe

Enotourismin Mexico is centered on the Norte region, although wine festivals exist in the other wine-producing regions. The “Ruta del Vino” (Wine Route) connects the wine producing areas of the municipality of Ensenada, such as the Valley of Guadalupe, the Valley of Llano Colorado, Valley of Santo Tomás and the Valley of San Vicente with the port city of Ensenada and the border cities ofTijuanaandTecate.The Route connects over fifty wineries, along with upscale restaurants, hotels, museums and other attractions of this part of Baja California state.[6]The route is marked by “Ruta del Vino” signs on the roads and highways to promote the area for enotourism, especially from the U.S. border.[4]

Bottles of Mount Xanic.

Another major tourism draw is the Fiesta de la Vendimia (Vintage Festival), which takes place in Ensenada and the Valley of Guadalupe every year in August. The festivals include wine tasting and contests, winery tours, fishing tournaments, cook-offs, gourmet food and concerts. These events are sponsored and/or organized by the area’s wineries. Since the event occurs in the summer, afternoon temperatures can hover around 38 °C (100 °F).[2][20]Some of the events include “Noche de Cofradia en Ensenada”, which features wine and food tasting from about thirty wineries and restaurants, matching local wines with local culinary specialties. The annual Malagon Family Celebration is held on a 200-hectare (500-acre) ranch, vineyard with winery and bed and breakfast. This event includes a horse show, live music, food and wine. The Concurso Internacional Ensenada Tierra del Vino wine competition is also held in the city. Perhaps the most unusual event is at Bibayoff Winery with Russian music, dancers, food and wines.[20]

However the drug war, which mostly takes place in border cities like Tijuana, has hurt this tourism to the area significantly as many U.S. tourists do not want to pass the border towns to get to the relatively calm wine valleys of Baja California.[1][4]

LA Cetto winery in Guadalupe Valley

The Parras Valley in Coahuila has held its Feria de la Uva y el Vino (Festival of Grapes and Wine) since 1945, centered on the town ofParras de la Fuente.The event showcases the area's wines as well as other local products such as handcrafts, candies, denim clothing and food. This event is generally held in June.[21]

In the Center area,Tequisquiapan,Querétaro sponsors an annualcheeseand wine festival called the Feria Nacional del Queso y de Vino in the month of June. This event draws local, national and international participants to compete for prizes and provide samples to visitors. This part of Querétaro is not only in wine country, but very near the center of where most Mexican cheeses were developed. Wines featured at this event are sparkling wines, but chardonnays, sauvignon blanc, merlots, pinot noirs and cabernets are also available for tasting. Wines from other parts of Mexico and the world also appear here.[22]A more local celebration in the same area is Querétaro's version of the Vendimia first harvest festival which occurs at various wineries in the state in July. The most notable events occur at the Viñedos La Redonda Winery near Tequisquiapan with music, wine tasting and competitions, gourmet food and ahandcraftsexposition.[23]

Winefests in other parts of the country include the Cabo San Lucas Wine and Food Fest[24]and the Guadalajara Winefest in November,[25]as well as the GastroVino wine and food fest in Todos Santos, BCS in April.[26]

See also

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San Fedele bottle of Bissolotti Winery.

References

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  1. ^abcdefghijklmnoDelsol, Christine (2009-04-15)."A toast to Mexico's undiscovered wine country".San Francisco Chronicle.San Francisco, CA.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  2. ^abcdefghijkl"The Wines of Baja Renewing the History of Mexico's Wines".Retrieved2009-12-07.
  3. ^abcdefghi"The Wines of Mexico".Archived fromthe originalon 2010-01-12.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  4. ^abcdefghijBooth, William (2009-04-26)."Violence Keeps Visitors From Mexico Wine Country".Washington Post.Washington, D.C.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  5. ^Morris, Seren (9 June 2020)."The Best Cabernet Sauvignon Wine Comes From…Mexico".Newsweek.Retrieved22 February2021.
  6. ^ab"Mexico Desconocido Guia Especial La Ruta del Vino de Baja California" [Mexico Desconocido Special Guide The Wine Route of Baja California].Mexico Desconocido.Mexico City: Impresiones Aéreas SA de CV: 24–86. 2009.ISSN1870-9397.
  7. ^abcdefFinn, Maria (2007-12-06)."MEXICO: Striving To Make A Better Wine".ABC News.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  8. ^abcdReagan Jr., Thomas J."Ay! Carumba! Get Ready for Mexico".Wine Simple. Archived fromthe originalon 2010-03-24.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  9. ^abcdeWells, Matthew (2006-01-02)."Mexico's 'boutique wine' renaissance".BBC.London, England.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  10. ^abHeeger, Jack (2007-02-08)."Mexico's wine industry growing rapidly... in quantity and quality".Napa Valley Register.California.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  11. ^abcd"Casa Madero, la bodega mas antigua de América"[Casa Madero, the oldest winery in America] (in Spanish). Mexico: Diario del Vino. Archived fromthe originalon 2011-07-10.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  12. ^ab"The Wine Market in Mexico"(PDF).Mexico Alimentaria.Retrieved2009-12-07.[permanent dead link]
  13. ^ab"México retira definitivamente sus aranceles a la importación de brandy de Jerez"[Mexico indefinitely withdraws tariffs on Jerez brandy].20 Minutes Noticias de Jerez(in Spanish). Spain.Retrieved2009-12-08.
  14. ^Goldammer, Ted (December 1993)."Mexican brandy market offers spirited sales opportunity".AgExporter.Retrieved2009-12-08.
  15. ^"El brandy aumentó sus ventas en México un 51%"[Brandy sales rise 51% in Mexico].La Voz(in Spanish). Buenos Aires. 2008-05-15.Retrieved2009-12-08.
  16. ^"Casa Madero, a la vanguardia en técnicas de clonación vitivinícola"[Casa Madero, at the vanguard of grapevine cloning techniques].La Jornada(in Spanish). Mexico City: UNAM. December 14, 2006.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  17. ^Lamkin, John."Cerocahui, Mexico: Tarahumara Indians, Jesuits and Wine".Global Writes. Archived fromthe originalon 2010-11-24.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  18. ^Ammeson, Jane (2009-03-16)."The magic of Bernal, Queretaro: wine, opals and historic charm".Mexconnect.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  19. ^"Ensenada Wineries, Festivals and Wine Tasting".Mexico Online.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  20. ^abDryden, Steve (2009-04-27)."Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009 Schedule – Mexico's Annual Wine Festival".MEXIDATA. INFO. Archived fromthe originalon 2009-07-20.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  21. ^Contreras, Holanda (2009-06-14)."Buscan 'exprimir' la Feria de la Uva y el Vino 2009"[Looking to "squeeze" the Festival of Grapes and Wine].Zocalo Saltillo(in Spanish). Saltillo, Coahuila.Retrieved2009-12-08.
  22. ^Hursh Graber, Karen (2009-05-10)."Making merry in May: Mexico's National Cheese and Wine Festival".Mexconnect.Retrieved2009-12-07.
  23. ^"Fiestas de la vendimia 2009 en Querétaro"[Festival of Vendimia 2009 in Querétaro].Diario Rotativo(in Spanish). Querétaro. 2009-06-17. Archived fromthe originalon February 21, 2013.Retrieved2009-12-08.
  24. ^"Cabo San Lucas Mexico - Wine and Food Festival".5 October 2008. Archived fromthe originalon 2008-10-05.
  25. ^"Wine Fest México Guadalajara Vallarta León".7 February 2011. Archived fromthe originalon 2011-02-07.
  26. ^"Inicio - GASTROVINO".gastrovino.mx.
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