Muscadet

For the Italian wine grape also known as Muscadet Aigre, seeTrebbiano.

A Muscadet-Sèvre et Mainesur liewine

Muscadet(UK:/ˈmʌskədeɪ,ˈmʊsk-/MU(U)SK-ə-day,US:/ˌmʌskəˈdeɪ,ˌmʊsk-/MU(U)SK-ə-DAY,French:[myskadɛ]) is aFrenchwhite wine.It is made at the western end of theLoire Valley,near the city ofNantesin thePays de la Loireregion. It is made from theMelon de Bourgognegrape, often referred to simply asmelon.While mostappellation d'origine contrôléewines are named after their growing region, or inAlsaceafter theirvariety,the nameMuscadetrefers to an alleged characteristic of the wine produced by the melon grape variety:vin qui a un goût musqué(wine with a musk-like taste). However, according to wine expertTom Stevenson,Muscadet wines do not have much, if any, muskiness orMuscat-like flavors oraromas.

The sole variety used to produce Muscadet, Melon de Bourgogne, was initially planted in the region sometime in or before the 17th century. It became dominant after a hard freeze in 1709 killed most of the region's vines.Dutchtraders, who were major actors in the French wine trade, encouraged the planting of this variety; theydistilledmuch of the wine produced intoeau de viefor sale inNorthern Europe.

The generic Muscadetappellation,officially established in 1937, contains three regional sub-appellations:

1. Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine,officially established in 1936, covering 20,305 acres (8,217 hectares) with 21 villages in theLoire-Atlantiquedepartment and 2 in theMaine-et-Loiredepartment. This appellation produces 80% of all Muscadets.
2. Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire,officially established in 1936, covering 467 acres (189 hectares) with 24 villages spread across the Loire-Atlantique and Maine-et-Loire departments.
3. Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu,officially established in 1994, benefits from theGrandlieulake'smicroclimate.This sub appellation covers 717 hectares with 17 villages in the Loire-Atlantique department and 2 villages in theVendéedepartment.

History

Evidence suggests that Louis XIV ordered the plantings of Melon de Bourgogne in the Muscadet region following the devastating frost of 1709 that wiped out many vineyards.

The wine-growing tradition in the region where Muscadet is produced dates from an edict of theRoman emperorProbuswho had the first vineyards planted by soldiers.

The exact origins of Muscadet wine, and its association with the Melon de Bourgogne grape, is not clear. One estate near Nantes,Château de la Cassemichère,claims that the first Melon de Bourgogne vines used to make Muscadet were transported fromBurgundyand planted in their vineyards in 1740.However, mostampelographersbelieve that the Melon de Bourgogne grape was introduced to the Pays Nantais region in the 17th century by Dutch trader looking for a sufficient source of neutral, white wines that could be distilled intobrandewijn.Following the deep freeze of 1709, most of the red grape varieties were severely damaged and replaced by the hardier Melon de Bourgogne.The French ampelographerPierre Galetfound evidence that following that deep freeze, KingLouis XIVordered the replanting himself with a grape calledMuscadent blancthat was most likely the Melon de Bourgogne.

By the 20th century, Muscadet began to fall out of favor in the global wine market and earned a reputation for being homogenous and simple. The late 20th century saw a revival in the Muscadet region as ambitious wine producers experimented with newwinemakingtechniques aimed at bringing out more flavor and complexity in the wine. The 1980s saw a rise in use ofoak barrelfermentationandleesstirring while the 1990s introduced the widespread use of extended skin-contact (maceration) prior to fermentation. By the 20th century, the use of these techniques created a wide range of styles and quality of Muscadet wine.

Climate and geography

The proximity of Nantes and the Muscadet growing region to the Atlantic coast brings a strong maritime influence to the region

The Muscadet growing region lies at the far western reaches of the Loire Valley and is dominated bymaritime influencesof the nearbyAtlantic Ocean.The ocean's influence makes the climate of the Muscadet region cooler than the rest of the Loire Valley with more precipitation.Wine expert Tom Stevenson notes that the city of Nantes serves as a shield, protecting the region from northwesterly winds.However the closest vineyards to the city in the village ofVertouare located over 9.5 km from the city center and at higher elevation.Winters have the potential to be harsh with deep freezes common and threatening all the way into early spring.

Vineyards in the Muscadet region are scattered across a wide range ofterroirsranging from gentle slopes near the rivers to rolling hills to flat fertile land near the mouth of the Loire river. The most ideally situated vineyards are in the rolling hills Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine sub-appellation located south and east of Nantes. The soil in this area is rich inmagnesiumandpotassium,made up ofclay,gravelandsandabovesubsoilsofgneiss,schist,graniteandvolcanicrock. Throughout the Muscadet region the soils drain well, which is a necessity in a region as damp as the Pays Nantais. In the broader, generic Muscadet AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) the soil is predominantlysiltandsandwhile the soils of the Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire has high concentration of schist and the Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu sub-appellation has a mixture of granite and schist based soils.

Appellations

There are four main appellations of the Muscadet region. At the lowest level is the umbrellaAOCMuscadet which covers the entire 32,000 acres (13,000 hectares) region. Wine expertJancis Robinsonnotes that wines carrying this basic designation are normally the most simple examples of Muscadet. Since the late 1990s, this level has been excluded from usingsur lieaging by AOC regulations. Next come the three sub-appellations representing different micro-climates of the region: Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine; Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire, which includes the northernmost expanse of the area; and Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, which is located in the southwestern area around the eponymous lake.As the most northern sub-appellation, the quality of wines from the Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire can vary greatly depending on the vintage. In cooler years the grapes struggle toripenand tend not to have the fruit to balance the acidity. In warmer years, this area tends to produce the most balanced wines.Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu is the most recent AOC promotion, gaining its status in 1996.Prior to gaining its own sub-appellation, this region was responsible for nearly three-quarters of the wine labeled as basic Muscadet AOC. Well made examples from Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu are characterized by floralbouquetandminerality.

The Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine sub-appellation is the most productive and notable region of Muscadet, producing more than three-quarters of the region's entire production. (In contrast, the Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire AOC only produces around 20% of the amount of wine of Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine) In fact, more AOC Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine is produced on a yearly basis than in any other single AOC in the entireLoire Valley.The appellation is located east and south around the city of Nantes and is named after the riversSèvreandMainethat flow through it.Vineyard soilcomposition varies throughout the region and can range from thegraniteandschisthillsides around the village ofSaint-Fiacre-sur-Maineto the predominantlyclaybased soils ofVallet.The most ideally situated vineyards are located around the villages ofLa Chapelle-Heulin,St-Fiacre, Vallet andVertouAround 45% of the wine made Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine is agedsur lie.The wines made in this style tend to be slightly fuller body and can have some of the texture and mouthfeel of a whiteBourgogne AOC.Well made examples will have a balance of fruit, acidity and texture.

Viticulture

Melon de Bourgogne grapes duringflowering.

The most commonviticulturalhazards in the Muscadet region are seasonal frost andmildewnearharvest.The Melon de Bourgogne has adapted well to these condition being very frost resistant and capable of ripening early. Harvest usually takes place in mid to late September but in recent years producers have been experimented with harvesting the grapes several days to a couple weeks later. The traditional method is to harvest early in order to maintainaciditythat is a key characteristic of Muscadet wine. The trend to pick later, and risk the threat of rains and mildew rot, is to give the grapes more time to developsugarsand riperphenolsthat can impart more fruit notes and complexity to the wine. However, these grapes that are picked later will usually experience a dramatic drop in acidity.

Winemaking

Thegrape varietyused to produce Muscadet, Melon de Bourgogne, is a relatively neutral grape. Winemaking techniques have evolved in the region to adapt to the grape's limitation and bring out more flavor and complexity. The most well-known of these techniques issur lieaging, where the wine stays in contact with the deadyeastcells left over after fermentation (thelees).The technique was discovered, almost accidentally, in the early 20th century. Traditionally Muscadet producers would set aside a barrel of wine for special occasions, such as a familywedding.This "honeymoon barrel", as it became known, would take on more flavor and texture due to its contact with the lees.Through this process,autolysisoccurs which contributes to a creamymouthfeelthat may make the wine seem to have afuller body.The release ofenzymesduring this process inhibitsoxidationwhich may also improve theaging potentialof the wine.During this process, the wine is usually notrackedfor several months. While in many wines, the lack of racking could have the undesired consequences of developing off flavors or otherwine faults.However, the relative neutrality of the Melon de Bourgogne grape works in the favor of the Muscadet wine and poses minimal risk to developing off flavors.

The process ofsur lieaging involves the wine staying in constant contact with the dead yeast cells (known as lees) which appear as sediment at the bottom of a wine barrel(example shown).

The late 20th century saw a wave of winemaking innovation and the popularization of several winemaking techniques. The mid-1980s saw increased usage of oak barrels for fermentation over stainless steel fermenting tanks. The process of stirring the lees (bâtonnage) also became more commonplace.By stirring the lees, the dead yeast come into greater contact with the wood-basedtanninsandpigmentsthat are usually extracted into the wine. The lees act as a sort of buffer between the wines and the oak elements, allowing the wine to maintain its color and not become too harsh and tannic.In the late 1990s, more Muscadet producers started extending the amount of time that the must spends in contact with the grape skins prior to fermentation. This extended maceration allowed the wine to leach morephenolic compoundsfrom the skin which can add complexity to the wine.

Muscadet wines are usually bottled in the spring or autumn following thevintagethough they can be made in thevins de primeurstyle (like aBeaujolais nouveau) and be released as early as the third Thursday of November.At time of bottling somecarbon dioxidemay still be present in the wine, giving it a slighteffervescencethat can come across as a "prickly" sensation to the tongue. This effervescence is rarely seen to the degree of asemi-sparklingwine such asLambrusco.Under French AOC regulations, the maximumalcohol contentof a Muscadet must be no more than 12% (afterchaptalization)-making it the only unfortifiedFrench wine to have a maximum alcohol content stipulation.

Sur lie on the wine label

Wine bottle with the wordssur lieprinted on both the label as well as em Boss ed on the wine bottle itself.

Prior to the early 1990s, any producer of Muscadet wine could use the phrasesur lieon theirwine labelsregardless of the length of time and manner that it actually spent in contact with the lees. In 1994, French authorities designed regulations that limit the use ofsur lieto only wines that comply with a set guideline. First, while the sub-appellations of Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine, Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire and Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu are permitted to use the term, any wine labeled with just the generic AOC Muscadet cannot. Second, the wine must spend at least a full winter in contact with the lees and not be bottled until after the third week of March following the harvest. Some wines are kept in contact longer, in order to produce a more full-bodied style, and not bottled till between mid-October to mid-November. Finally the wine must be bottled directly off its lees and not go through any racking orfiltrationprocess. Currently there is no regulation on the size or type of vessel that the wine should be kept insur liewith. There is a movement among some Muscadet producers to limit the practice to just that done in standard-sized oak barrels, but currently any size barrel or even stainless steel fermentation tanks are allowed to age a winesur lieand label it accordingly.

Wine industry

Vineyard of Melon de Bourgogne in the Muscadet region.

At the turn of the 21st century there were over 2,500 vineyards in the Muscadet region tended mostly as small lots by individual farmers who either commercialize their own wineor sell their grapes to one of the forty plusnégociantsin the region. Thesenégociantswould blend and bottle the wine under their own label.

Grapes

The only grape variety permitted in any of the AOC Muscadet is theMelon de Bourgogne.The grape was once prevalent in theBurgundy wineregion but was eventually prohibited in the region by French authorities.Introduced by Dutch wine traders in the 17th century, the grape came to thrive in the cool, mild climate of the Pays Nantais. Other varieties are grown in the region-such asFolle blanche,Cabernet franc,Gamay,Cabernet Sauvignon,Pinot noirandChenin blanc,Pinot gris,Groslot,andNégrette-but must be used under different designations such as theVin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure(VDQS) wines ofCoteaux d'Ancenis,Fiefs VendéensorGros Plant du Pays Nantais.

Wines

Muscadet wines are often light bodied and almost alwaysdrywith very little, if anyresidual sugar.The AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protégée) states that the wine may not have residual sugar above 5 grams per liter for Blanc and above 3 grams of sugar per liter for Blanc "Sur Lie." Left over carbon dioxide from the bottling process can leave the wines with a slight "prickly" sensation.Master of WineMary Ewing-Mulligandescribes Muscadets as fresh and crisp, at their peak drinking ability from release up to three years of age.Muscadet that have been agedsur liecan have very subtle "yeasty" aromas. The acidity keeps the wines light and refreshing.Some examples can have a slight "saltiness"about them.

Food pairing

Muscadet has been described byJon Bonnéas the "perfectoysterwine "

The classicfood and wine pairingsin the Pays Nantais region is of Muscadet with the localseafood,particularlyoysters.Other seafood dishes with which Muscadet pairs well includelobster,shrimpandmullet.San Francisco Chroniclewine editorJon Bonnécalled Muscadet "the perfect oyster wine".The moderate alcohol level of Muscadet allows it to complement many types of dishes without overwhelming them. The light, crisp acidity can "cut through" (meaning it stands out against) rich, creamy dishes which can be a refreshing change of pace for thepalate.

Cellaring and service

Most Muscadets should be drunk within three years of production. There are, however, some exceptions to this rule. Depending upon the soils upon which they are produced and vinification, some Muscadets can have anagingpotential of up to and exceeding ten years. The organisation responsible in France for promoting Loire Valley wines suggests that Muscadet should be served at between 9 and 11 °C (48 and 52 °F).

See also

• List of Vins de Primeur