Palo Duro Canyon

Palo Duro Canyon
View from the Interpretive Center
Palo Duro Palo Duro
Floor elevation	2,828 ft (862 m)
Length	120 mi (190 km)
Width	20 mi (32 km)
Depth	800 ft (240 m)
Geography
Coordinates	34°57′N101°40′W
Rivers	Prairie Dog Town Fork Red River
U.S. National Natural Landmark
Designated	1976

Palo Duro Canyonis acanyonsystem of theCaprock Escarpmentlocated in theTexas Panhandlenear the cities ofAmarilloandCanyon.As one of the largest canyons in theUnited States,it is roughly 25–40 mi (40–64 km) long and has an average width of 6 mi (9.7 km), but reaches a width of 20 mi (32 km) at places. Its depth is around 800 ft (240 m),but in some locations, valley bottom to surrounding hills increases to 1,000 ft (300 m). Palo Duro Canyon (from the Spanish meaning "hard stick" )has been named "The Grand Canyon of Texas" both for its size and for its dramatic geological features, including the multicolored layers of rock and steepmesawalls, which are similar to those in theGrand Canyon.It is part ofPalo Duro Canyon State Park.The State Park had 442,242 visitors in 2022.

Geology

Palo Duro CanyonGeologic map

The canyon was formed by thePrairie Dog Town Fork Red River,which initially winds along the level surface of theLlano EstacadoofWest Texas,then suddenly and dramatically runs off theCaprock Escarpment.Watererosionover the millennia has shaped the canyon's geological formations.

Notable canyon formations includecavesandhoodoos.One of the best-known and the major signature feature of the canyon is the Lighthouse Rock. A multiple-use, 6 mi (10 km) round-trip loop trail is dedicated to the formation.

The Lighthouse Rock

Palo Duro Canyon wasdowncutby the Prairie Dog Town ForkRed Riverduring thePleistocene,when the whole region was uplifted.Most of the strata visible in the canyon were deposited during thePermianandTriassicperiods. From oldest to youngest, and each separated by anunconformity,theformationsare:

TheQuartermaster FormationisPermianin age, and forms the red, lower slopes of the Canyon. This layer was deposited in a near-shore shallow-marine environment consisting ofsiltstonesandshaleswithripple marksandcross bedding,that alternated with dry tidal flats indicated bysatin spargypsumandhalitecastevaporitedeposits. The red color indicates periods of oxidation.The Quartermaster Formation forms the lower wall and canyon floor, averaging 60 ft (20 m) in thickness where itoutcrops.In particular, this alternating red and white formation forms the steep andgulliedlower portion of the north flank of Timber Mesa, with the maroon and lavender smooth slopes of the Tecovas Shale above.

Astronaut photo of Palo Duro and Caprock Canyons in early 2022

TheTecovas Formationis a part of theDockum Groupwith the Trujillo Formation. This multicoloredTriassicunit consists ofshale,siltstone,andsandstone.Deposited in streams and swamps, its colors indicate varyingoxidizingconditions, and the alternating dry/wet cycles typical of such environments. These rocks are fossiliferous, containing the remains ofphytosaurs,amphibians,andfish,includingMetoposaurus,Desmatosuchus,Koskinonodon,andlungfish,besidescoprolitesand thepetrified woodremains ofAraucarioxylon.Septariancalcite concretions and calcitegeodesare numerous, and the shale forms the less steep canyon walls covered bytalusslopes.A prominent band ofjointedwhite sandstone about 15 ft (5 m) thick marks the middle of this 200 ft (60 m) formation. Lavender, gray and white shales lie below this sandstone, while an orange shale lies between this sandstone and the Trujillo Formation above. The Quartermaster and Tecovas Formations make up Capital Peak. Likewise, the lower third of Triassic Peak is composed of the deeply furrowed Quartermaster Formation, overlain by the gentle slopes and smooth surface of the Tecovas Formation shales, all capped by the weather-resistant Trujillo Formation sandstone. Large blocks of this sandstone, due tomass wasting,are found along the flanks and base of the peak.

TheTrujillo Formationis a Triassic formation that is harder than the underlying Tecovas and forms many of the Canyon's ledges. Composed of coarse sandstone, rivercross-beddingindicates deposition in a stream environment. Fossils are rare.The sandstone has alternating layers ofshaleandmarl-pebbleconglomerate.The formation is massively bedded sandstone, making a distinct contact with the underlying Tecovas Formation, forming cliffs, prominentbenchesand mesas within the canyon. The formation includes a basal, middle, and upper sandstonemembers,separated by shales. The middle sandstone member forms conspicuous ledges and cliffs. Phytosaur and Koskinonodon remains, plus leaf imprints and mineralized wood have been found within the formation. Erosion-resistant sandstones protect pedestals of underlying shale, giving rise to hoodoos, including the Lighthouse, and the hoodoo at the south end of Capitol Peak. Likewise, the Rock Garden is composed of Trujillo sandstoneboulders.

TheOgallala Formationis a lateMioceneto earlyPlioceneunit which forms the cliffs and ledges at the very top of the canyon. It is composed of sandstone, siltstone, andconglomerateeroded from a lateCenozoicuplift of theRocky Mountains,and is separated from the lower Trujillo Formation by adisconformity,representing a long hiatus. The coarse, porous sedimentary units of the Ogallala Formation constitute theOgallala Aquifer,which has historically functioned as a major source of drinking water for much of theHigh Plains.Fossils of saber-toothed cats (Smilodon), bone-crushing dogs (Borophagus),mastodons,horses,long-neckedcamels(Aepycamelus),rhinoceroses,and largetortoisesup to 3 feet in length, are present in the Ogallala.The siltstone and sandstone have been cemented by silica, which gives rise to the occurrence of commonopaland almost-chertpockets.The upper portion of the formation has thick deposits ofcaliche,very evident at the Coronado Lodge on the northwest rim of the canyon. Fortress Cliff, on the eastern rim of the canyon, has a spectacular exposure of the Ogallala Formation.

Headward erosionby the Prairie Dog Town fork of the Red River, into the caprock escarpment of theLlano Estacado,caused differential erosion. This meant the more resistant Ogallala and Trujillo formations formed the steeper walls of the canyon.

Panoramic view of the Palo Duro Canyon showing the Quartermaster, Tecovas, Trujillo, and Ogallala formations

Capitol Peak

History

The first evidence of human habitation of the canyon dates back about 10,000–15,000 years, and it is believed to have been continuously inhabited to the present day.Native Americanswere attracted to the water of the Prairie Dog Town Fork Red River, as well as the consequent ample game, edible plants, and protection from the weather the canyon provided.

The first European explorers to discover the canyon were members of theCoronado expedition,who visited the canyon in 1541.ApacheIndians lived in Palo Duro at the time, but they were later displaced byComancheandKiowatribes, who had the advantage of owninghorsesbrought over by the Spanish. TheMescalero Apacherefer to the canyon asNił'e'agutelor "canyon in the plains."They had contact with traders, calledComancheros,in nearbyNew Mexico.

A United States military team underCaptainRandolph B. Marcymapped the canyon in 1852 during their search for the headwaters of the Red River. The land remained under American Indian control until a military expedition led byColonelRanald S. Mackenziewas sent in 1874 to remove the Indians to reservations inOklahoma.The Mackenzie expedition captured about 1,200 of the Indians' horses and slaughtered them in nearby Tule Canyon during theBattle of Palo Duro Canyon.The Comanche and Kiowa conceded and left the area.

Soon after, in 1876,Charles Goodnightand a wealthyUlster ScotnamedJohn Adairestablished theJA Ranchin Palo Duro Canyon. Col. Goodnight helped manage the ranch until 1890. Over the next half century, the canyon remained in private hands but was an increasingly popular tourist spot for residents.

Charles N. Gouldmade ageologic mapof the canyon and named theformationsin 1905.

In 1931, a major landowner signed a two-year contract with the local chamber of commerce to allow public access to the canyon.The upper section of the canyon was purchased by the State of Texas in 1934 and turned into the 20,000-acre (8,100 ha) Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Amarillo is the largest city near Palo Duro Canyon State Park, but the smaller city ofCanyonis nearer. In 1976, Palo Duro Canyon State Park was designated as a National Natural Landmark by the National Park Service.

Seven units of theCivilian Conservation Corpsdeveloped the park from 1933 until 1937. Four groups of veterans, two groups of African Americans, and one junior group took part in various construction projects, starting with the construction of Park Road 5, a two-lane road from the rim to the floor of the canyon. Other projects included the headquarters building,culverts,low-water crossings, bridges, Spring House, Well House, the Coronado Lodge interpretive center, 4 overnight cabins known as Cow Camp, and the 3 rim cabins. In addition, picnic and camping areas were built, complete with tables, seats, fireplaces, and garbage receptacles.

Tourism and activities

Palo Duro Canyon is part of the Texas State Parks system under Texas Parks and Wildlife. Day entry into the park is covered by the Texas Parks Pass.

Palo Duro Canyon hosts several activities throughout the park. There are 16 trails for hiking, biking, and horseback riding, ranging in length from.05 miles to 4.4 miles. There are options for camping, with sites for tents with water access and RV campers alike.There are also sites for keeping horses available to campers planning to horseback ride in the canyon.In addition, lodging cabins are available for rent that sit on the outer rim of the canyon, providing an impressive view of both the canyon and the sunrise.

Group sites and spaces are available for group retreats, youth groups, and weddings. The Mack Dick Pavilion is a popular location for weddings and receptions, as the canyon provides a beautiful backdrop.

In culture

Georgia O'Keeffe,Red Landscape,oil on board, 1916–1917,Panhandle–Plains Historical Museum,West Texas A&M University

The painterGeorgia O'Keeffe,who lived in nearbyAmarilloandCanyonin the early 20th century, wrote of the Palo Duro: "It is a burning, seething cauldron, filled with dramatic light and color."She madepaintings of Palo Duro Canyonbetween 1916 and 1918, when she was an instructor and head of the art department atWest Texas State Normal College.

Palo Duro Canyon is the site of an outdoor historical and musical drama, titledTexas,presented annually each summer by actors, singers, dancers, and artists of the Texas Panhandle region. The spectacle, created by playwrightPaul Eliot Green,premiered on July 1, 1966, at the newly constructed Pioneer Amphitheatre in Palo Duro Canyon State Park. It has continued each summer through the present, makingTexas"the best-attended outdoor history drama in the nation."

American composerSamuel Jones's Symphony No. 3 is titled "Palo Duro Canyon." It premiered May 1, 1992, in an outdoor performance at the Palo Duro Canyon State Park's Pioneer Amphitheatre, with James Setapen conducting the Amarillo Symphony (which had commissioned the work). The composer writes: "I wanted the piece... to conjure up an intuitive awareness of the long movements of time required for the creation of a canyon. I also wanted in some way to pay homage to Native Americans, to whom this canyon was a sacred place. And I wanted to capture in music that magical moment which everyone experiences when they first see the flat, treeless High Plains fall dizzyingly away into the colorful vastness of the Palo Duro Canyon itself."AKACV-TVdocumentary on the canyon, composer, and symphony, titledAnd There Will Be Sounds,was broadcast onPBSstations nationally later that year; and a commercial recording was subsequently released by theSeattle Symphonyunder the baton ofGerard Schwarz. A second recording was released in 2018 as part of a multichannel SACD titled 'American Symphonies' on the SwedishBISlabel, with Lance Friedel conducting theLondon Symphony Orchestra.

See also

• Blanco Canyon
• Caprock Canyons State Park and Trailway
• Double Mountain Fork Brazos River
• Duffy's Peak
• High Plains
• Ogallala Aquifer
• Mushaway Peak
• Salt Fork Brazos River
• Texas State Highway 207
• Yellow House Canyon
• Yellow House Draw

Texas portal

External links

• Palo Duro Canyon State Parkofficial website
• Texas Parks and Wildlife: Palo Duro Canyon
• ReadExploration of the Red River,by Randolph Marcy, 1852, hosted bythe Portal to Texas History.
• Handbook of Texas Online: Palo Duro Canyon
• Public domain images of the Llano Estacado and West Texas
• U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: Palo Duro State Park
• Unique Perspectives of Palo Duro Canyon; Pictures and Panoramas
• Film of Palo Duro Canyon fromAdventure at Our Dooron theTexas Archive of the Moving Image