Pavagadh

For other uses, seePavagada.

Pavagadh
Pawagadh
Kalika Mata TempleonPavagadh Hill
Plan of Pavagadh, 1847, by J Ramsay
Coordinates:22.46672°N 73.50048°E/22.46672; 73.50048
India	India
Gujarat	Gujarat
District	Panchmahal
Elevation	762 m (2,500 ft)

Saat Kamaan, Pavagadh

Pavagadhis a municipal operated region inPanchmahal districtabout 46 kilometres (29 mi) away fromVadodarainGujaratstate in westernIndia.It is known for a famousMahakalitemple which is one of the 51 Shaktipeeths and draws thousands of pilgrims every day. However, as per records, this was originally a Jain temple belonging to the Svetambara Achalgaccha, whose Adhistayika Mahakali's idol was installed here in the 12th century. This localityChampaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Parkwas declared byUNESCOas aWorld Heritage Sitein 2004.

History

Pavagadh Hill's Footsteps

Pavagadh was an AncientJainPilgrimage. In 140 CE, Greek geographer Ptolemy during his tour to India stated that Pavagadh is very ancient & holy, which proves its antiquity. It is stated that Raja Gangasinh, a successor of Emperor Ashok got the fort & the temples of Pavagadh repaired. There have been several attempts to destroy the evidence of itsJain heritage.However, the court ordered against destruction of facts and heritage.

The Jain history of Pavagadh dates back to 3rd century BC.

1. King Samprati,in the 3rd century BC, constructed the temple and installed the idol ofSambhavnathawhich was consecrated by Svetambara Jain monk Acharya Suhastisuri.
2. In 1055 CE,Śvetāmbaramonk Acharya Gunsagarsuri consecrated a new temple ofJirawala Parshvanathand reconstructed an ancient 52-shrine Temple ofAbhinandanswami.
3. In 1113 CE, the Achalgacch of theŚvetāmbarasect of Jainism was established here by AcharyaAryarakshitsuri.He was unhappy with the wrong practices that had crept into the conduct of Jain monks due to the influence ofyatis.He attempted reforms, but failed. Therefore, he ascended the hill to perform Santhara orSallekhana.The Legend says that demi-goddessMahakaliappeared before him and requested the Acharya not to performSallekhanaand told him that he was the only one who could spread the Truth. She asked him to start a new order based on the truth of theAgamasand assured him that she would safeguard the lay-followers of the new order and that they will prosper. Thus, in 1113 CE, Acharya Aryarakshitsuri founded the Anchalgacch (or Viddhipaksh) at Pavagadh, and installed demi-goddessMahakalias theAdhishthayika(transl. protecting deity) of thegaccha.The founderŚrāvakasof thegacchainstalled the idol ofMahakalion the hill to mark their respects. This is the idol and the shrine which was later encroached upon by the Hindus, who additionally installed two more of their idols.
4. There is a reference to a temple called “Sarvatobhadra” (auspicious on all sides) built by Minister Tejpal in the 12th century.
5. Ceremonial installation and consecration of a temple built by Jayawant Seth by Acharya Vijaysensuri in 1581 CE.
6. Under the guidance of AcharyaKalyansagarsuri,a monk and reformer of Achalgacch, sravakas Sheth Vardhaman and Sheth Padamshin reconstructed the shrine of Mahakali in 16th century CE.
7. In 1689 CE, Gani Shilvijay Maharaj has referred to the existence of a temple ofNeminatha.which was destructed, fragments of which have been placed on the steps going uphill to the Mahakali Temple.
8. In a laudatory poem dedicated toJirawala Parshvanathaand composed by Jain monk Dipvijay Kaviraaj in late 18th century CE, the temples existing here are described in detail.

Several monks of the Achalgacch such as Acharya Mahendraprabhasuri, Acharya Merutungasuri, Acharya Jaykesarisuri amongst many, and those of the Tapagacch such as Acharya Dharmaratnasuri, Acharya Hemvimalsuri, Acharya Laxmisagarsuri, Acharya Bhuvansundarsuri etc. have consecrated Jain temples and idols on the hill. According to severalŚvetāmbarascriptures, at one time, these shrines were considered to be of equal rank and importance as those atop the hill atPalitana.

It is believed that there was one largeŚvetāmbaratemple earlier on the hill, which faced multiple invasions. The ruins of that temple have been used to construct 3 smallerDigambartemples by the Digambar community who have taken over these Svetambar temples.

It is said that KingVanraj ChavdaestablishedChampanerat the foot of Pavagadh in fond memory of his wise minister Champa. Later, the Patai Raval family ruled Pavagadh and took care of the boundary. The localfolk talessay that Mahakali assumed the form of a woman and danced in aGarbaduringNavaratri.The last Patai, Jaisinh watched her with dirty looks. The deity became angry at Jaisinh and cursed him that the town will fall. Eventually, theMuslimemperor ofGujarat,Mahmud Begadaassaulted Pavagadh and won the hill on the boundary in the 15th century.

Patai was defeated and killed.Mahmud Begadashifted his capital fromAhmedabadto Champaner for some time for reasons of Diplomacy. He developed the town by constructing buildings such as the fort of Champaner, Uohra mosque, Mandavi, Kirtistambh, the temple of Shalkh, Jama Masjid (originally a Jain temple), Nagina Mosque and Kevda Mosque. The remains of the Palace of Begada are still found near Vad Talav (Banyan Pond) two kilometers (1.25 miles) away from Champaner by road.

The government has granted many concessions and offered subsidies to the new industries coming up in this area. As a result of it,HalolandKaloltowns near Pavagadh have turned into virtual Industrial estates. A film studio at Halol has this added advantage.

Geography

Pavagadh is the gateway toPanchmahal.The locations of hilly areas aroundHalolprovide good scenery.Pavagadh Hillhas total height of 822 meters and you can find many scenic trails to climb including waterfalls during monsoon time. The plateau at an altitude of 490 meters is known as MachiHaveli.The bus service has been extended up to Machi.

Notable people

The great music maestro of 16th century, andTansen'scontemporary rival,Baiju Bawrabelonged toChampaner.

Reconstruction of the Temple

Pavagadh temple has a controversial history as 15th century king Sultan Mahmud Begda, who ruled Champaner, where the temple is located, is said to have destroyed the "shikhar" or spire of the temple. During that time a shrine "Sadanshah Pir Dargah" was said to have been built in the 11th century temple complex. During the renovation, the dargah was shifted amicably next to the temple and the "shikhar" was constructed. A restoration was also perform by lay-followers of the Jain monk Acharya Kalyansagarsuri of Achalgaccha.

Places of interest

Pavagadh Jain temple

Pavagadh in monsoon

• Pavagadh Jain Temple:The temples ofJainismat Pavagadh are noteworthy. They fall into three different groups: The first consists of the Bhavanaderi temples near the Naqqarkhana gate called the Navalakka temples, the second group is in honor of theTirthankarasSuparshvanathaandChandraprabhuand the third group, situated on the southeast of Pavagadh Hill (Mataji'scliff), is near thePārśvatemple next to the Dudhia tank. On the basis of their "stylistic and architectural features", the date of construction of these temples is deduced to be the 14th–15th centuries. The temple is made up of pure white stone with elaborately carved seated and standing images of the Jainpantheonare seen on the outer walls of the temples.
• Kalikamata Temple,now a famous Hindu pilgrim center which was once a Jain site, is located at Pavagadh. Situated amid dense forest cover on a cliff, the temple is believed to be one of the 51 Shakti Peeths. Maa Mahakalika Udan Khotala (A Passenger Ropeway) is operating since 1986 and takes you quickly and comfortably from Manchi to the hilltop near the Maha Kalika Temple in about 6 minutes, whereas, the steep climb on foot takes over one hour. The temple ofKaliis at the height of 550 metres (1,523 feet). A rope-way facility has been made available (commissioned in 1986) to the tourists to reach the temple. About 250 steps have to be climbed from there.

2024 vandalism

Desecration of Jain idols at Pavagadh on June 16, 2024

On June 16, 2024, an incident of severe vandalism happened on the hill. SeveralTirthankaraidols at the sides of the staircase on the old path to reach theKalika Mata shrinewere desecrated and broken down. Most desecrated idols were over 400 years old, some even ancient and belonged exclusively to theŚvetāmbarasect. Jain monk Jinpremvijaya spearheaded a peaceful protest at the local collector's office.