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Quiche Lorraine

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This article is about the food. For the song by The B-52s, seeWild Planet.For the fictional character, seeMinor characters in Bloom County § Quiche Lorraine.
Quiche Lorraine
Quiche Lorraine served in Paris
TypeSavoury
Place of originFrance
Region or stateLorraine
Main ingredientsPastry case filled with egg, cream and bacon

Quiche Lorraineis a savoury Frenchtartwith a filling of cream, eggs, and bacon or ham, in an open pastry case. It was little known outside the French region ofLorraineuntil the mid-20th century. As its popularity spread, nationally and internationally, the addition of cheese became commonplace, although it has been criticised as inauthentic. It may be served hot, warm or cold.

History

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According toLarousse Gastronomique,quiches(sometimes spelled kiches) originated in the eastern French regionLorraine.The name may derive from the GermanKuchen,a term used for similar dishes.[1]There aremany varietiesof quiche, and Larousse comments that every region ofAlsaceand Lorraine has its own and maintains it is the only authentic version of the dish.[1]Originally a quiche Lorraine was baked with a bread-dough case similar to that now used forpissaladièresandpizzas,[2]but in modern versions,shortcrustorpuff pastryis generally used.[1]The dish dates to the 16th century,[2]but until well into the 20th century it was little known outside its region of origin, and was as seldom seen in Paris as in foreign countries.[3]

Ingredients

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The classic ingredients for the filling are eggs, thick cream, and ham or bacon (in strips orlardons), made into a savourycustard.[1]Elizabeth Davidin herFrench Provincial Cooking(1960) andSimone Beck,Louisette BertholleandJulia Childin theirMastering the Art of French Cooking(1961) excluded cheese from their recipes for quiche Lorraine,[4]and David in particular was scornful of cooks and manufacturers who added it. She considered they did so for reasons of cost and convenience rather than taste: a classic quiche Lorraine, with only a cream, egg and bacon filling, is "quite tricky to get right".[5]

French text, translated in the note to this caption
1901 recipe for Quiche Lorraine, inLe Figaro.[n 1]

David placed the responsibility for the inauthentic addition of cheese with Parisian chefs. In 1870Jules Goufféintroduced a version to which he addedParmesan,[5]and in 1903Auguste Escoffierrecommended lining the pastry case with bacon and strips ofGruyèrebefore adding the cream and egg mixture.[6]Attempts were made to restore the simplicity of the original dish: in 1901Le Figaroprinted a recipe that excluded not only cheese but also bacon,[7]and in 1904André Theurietand a fellow native of Lorraine, Edmond Richardin, published another recipe that included neither bacon nor cheese,[8]but in 1932Marcel Boulestin,a highly influential restaurateur and writer, specified the addition of grated Gruyère,[5]and by the 1950s the use of cheese had become commonplace as the popularity of quiche Lorraine grew.[9]David cited a London cookery school where the students were taught to useevaporated milkandprocessed Cheddarfor their fillings.[9]La Mère Brazier's standard recipe for the dish excluded cheese, but she thought variations permissible, "replac[ing] the lardons and the ham with a layer of slicedRoquefort... or with thin slices of goose or duck liver and fresh truffle ".[10]

Among some recent versions of the dish,Anne-Sophie Pic's addsComté,[11]andDelia Smith's adds bothCheddarand Parmesan.[12]No cheese is used in the versions byLindsey Bareham,Felicity Cloake,Alain Ducasse,Simon Hopkinson,Thomas KellerandDan Lepard.[13][14]Ready-made quiches Lorraines sold in supermarkets in France, Britain and the US typically contain cheese – usuallyEmmentalor similar, although British versions often contain Cheddar.[n 2]

The dish may be served hot, warm or cold.[6][18][19]

Notes, references and sources

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Notes

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  1. ^Opening quotation: "The King can wait; the quiche can't" − Lorraine proverb. Recipe: Make a dough with flour, water, salt and butter; roll it two or three times; spread it on a pie dish, leaving it the thickness of a 1 franc coin [approx. 1.4mm]. In a bowl, beat four whole eggs and a teacup of fresh cream, a pinch of fine salt, pour over the pastry and cook in a very hot oven.
  2. ^Quiches Lorraines sold byPicard Surgelésin 2022 contained 11.6% "Emmental français", and those fromMonoprix3.1% Emmental français.[15]In Britain, the stronger Cheddar was prevalent, constituting 15% of the quiche fromWaitroseand 9% of that fromMarks and Spencer(with a further 8% of Emmental).[16]Ready-made American quiches Lorraines contained unrevealed quantities of "Grand Cru Cheese" (cultured pasteurised milk, salt, enzymes, potato starch and powdered cellulose) fromWhole Foods Market,and unspecified Swiss cheese in Nancy's version.[17]

References

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  1. ^abcdMontagné, p. 797
  2. ^abDavid (2008), p. 186
  3. ^"Quiche Lorraine",The Yorkshire Evening Post,24 May 1926, p. 3; and "New Vintage Wines",The Times,7 July 1931, p. 12
  4. ^Becket al,p. 158; and David (2008), p. 186
  5. ^abcDavid (2001), p. 117
  6. ^abEscoffier, p. 115
  7. ^"Le concours culinaire du Figaro"Le Figaro,19 August 1901, p. 6
  8. ^David (2001), p. 118
  9. ^abDavid (2001), p. 115
  10. ^Brazieret al,p. 86
  11. ^"La recette de quiche lorraine d’Anne-Sophie Pic"Archived2022-02-19 at theWayback Machine,Le Figaro,20 March 2020
  12. ^Smith, p. 272
  13. ^Cloake, Felicity."How to cook perfect quiche Lorraine"Archived2022-05-10 at theWayback Machine.The Guardian,26 May 2011
  14. ^Ducasse, Alan."Quiche Lorraine"Archived2021-06-25 at theWayback Machine,All My Chefs. Retrieved 16 May 2022
  15. ^"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2021-04-21 at theWayback Machine,Picard; and"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2020-11-30 at theWayback Machine,Monoprix. Retrieved 16 May 2022
  16. ^"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2021-04-12 at theWayback Machine,Waitrose; and"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2022-05-16 at theWayback Machine,Marks and Spencer. Retrieved 16 May 2022
  17. ^"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2021-06-17 at theWayback Machine,Whole Foods Market; and"Quiche Lorraine"Archived2021-09-20 at theWayback Machine,Nancy's. Retrieved 16 May 2022
  18. ^David (2008), pp. 18 and 187
  19. ^Becket al,p. 153

Sources

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  • Beck, Simone; Louisette Bertholle; Julia Child (2012) [1961].Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume One.London: Particular.ISBN978-0-241-95339-6.
  • Brazier, Eugénie; Moreau, Roger;Bocuse, Paul;Pacaud, Bernard (2015) [2004].La Mère Brazier: The Mother of Modern French Cooking.Translated by Drew Smith. London: Modern Books.ISBN978-1-906761-84-4.
  • David, Elizabeth (2001).Is There a Nutmeg in the House?.London: Viking.ISBN978-0-7540-2446-0.
  • David, Elizabeth (2008) [1960].French Provincial Cooking.London: Folio Society.OCLC809349711.
  • Escoffier, Auguste (1903).Le guide culinaire: aide-mémoire de cuisine pratique.Paris: Art culinaire.OCLC1202722258.
  • Montagné, Prosper (1976).Larousse gastronomique.London: Hamlyn.OCLC1285641881.
  • Smith, Delia (2008).How to Cheat at Cooking.London: Ebury.ISBN978-0-09-192229-0.
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