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Split, Croatia

Coordinates:43°30′36″N16°26′24″E/ 43.51000°N 16.44000°E/43.51000; 16.44000
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Split
Spalato
Grad Split
City of Split
House of Vicka Nakića
Bačvice Beach
View of city at night
Nickname:
Velo misto('[The] big town')
Anthem:Marjane, Marjane
Split is located in Croatia
Split
Split
Location in Croatia
Split is located in Europe
Split
Split
Location in Europe
Coordinates:43°30′36″N16°26′24″E/ 43.51000°N 16.44000°E/43.51000; 16.44000
CountryCroatia
CountySplit-Dalmatia
Founded as Aspálathos3rd or 2nd century BCE
Diocletian's Palacebuilt305 CE
Diocletian's Palace settled639 CE
Government
• TypeMayor-Council
MayorIvica Puljak(Centre)
City Council
31 members[1]
Electoral district10th
Area
City79.4 km2(30.7 sq mi)
• Urban
23.1 km2(8.9 sq mi)
Elevation
0 m (0 ft)
Population
(2021)[3]
City160,577
• Density2,000/km2(5,200/sq mi)
Urban
149,830
• Urban density6,500/km2(17,000/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC+1(CET)
• Summer (DST)UTC+2(CEST)
Postal code
HR-21 000
Area code+385 21
Vehicle registrationST
Patron saintSaint Domnius
Websitesplit.hr
Official nameHistorical Complex of Split with thePalace of Diocletian
CriteriaCultural: (ii)(iii)(iv)
Reference97
Inscription1979 (3rdSession)
Area20.8 ha (51 acres)

Split(/ˈsplɪt/;[4][5]Croatian pronunciation:[splît];Italian:Spalato:pronounced[ˈspalato];seeother names), is thesecond-largest cityofCroatiaafter the capitalZagreb,the largest city inDalmatiaand the largest city on the Croatian coast. It lies on the eastern shore of theAdriatic Seaand is spread over a central peninsula and its surroundings. An intraregional transport hub and popular tourist destination, the city is linked to theAdriatic islandsand theApennine Peninsula.More than 900,000 tourists visit Split each year.[6]

The city was founded as theGreek colonyof Aspálathos (Greek:Ἀσπάλαθος) in the 3rd or 2nd century BCE on the coast of theIllyrianDalmatae,and in 305 CE, it became the site ofthe Palaceof the Roman emperorDiocletian.It became a prominent settlement around 650 when it succeeded the ancient capital of theRomanprovince ofDalmatia,Salona.After the sack of Salona by theAvarsandSlavs,the fortified Palace of Diocletian was settled by Roman refugees. Split became aByzantinecity. Later it drifted into the sphere of theRepublic of Veniceand theKingdom of Croatia,with the Byzantines retaining nominal suzerainty. For much of theHighandLate Middle Ages,Split enjoyed autonomy as a free city of theDalmatian city-states,caught in the middle of a struggle between Venice andCroatiafor control over the Dalmatian cities.

Venice eventually prevailed and during theearly modern periodSplit remained a Venetian city, a heavily fortified outpost surrounded byOttomanterritory. Its hinterland was won from the Ottomans in theMorean Warof 1699, and in 1797, asVenice felltoNapoleon,theTreaty of Campo Formiorendered the city to theHabsburg monarchy.In 1805, thePeace of Pressburgadded it to the NapoleonicKingdom of Italyand in 1806 it was included in theFrench Empire,becoming part of theIllyrian Provincesin 1809. After being occupied in 1813, it was eventually granted to theAustrian Empirefollowing theCongress of Vienna,where the city remained a part of the AustrianKingdom of Dalmatiauntil the fall ofAustria-Hungaryin 1918 and theformationofYugoslavia.InWorld War II,the citywas annexed by Italy,then liberated by thePartisansafter theItalian capitulationin 1943. It was then re-occupied byGermany,which granted it to its puppetIndependent State of Croatia.The city was liberated again by the Partisans in 1944, and was included in the post-warSocialist Yugoslavia,as part of its republic ofCroatia.In 1991,Croatia secededfrom Yugoslavia amid theCroatian War of Independence.

Name

The name Aspálathos or Spálathos may come from the spiny broom (Calicotome spinosa,ἀσπάλαθος in Greek),[7]although it is the related Spanish broom (Spartium junceum,σπάρτος) that is common in the area.

After theRoman conquest,the name becameSpalatumorAspalatuminLatin,which in theMiddle Agesevolved intoAspalathum,Spalathum,SpalatrumandSpalatroin theDalmatian languageof the city'sRomancepopulation. From theEarly modern period,in international correspondence and in all the city's official documents, the official name was the LatinSpalatum.TheVenetianspelling,Spalato,became official in 18th century underVenetian ruleand is still the name of the city inItalian.[8]From the 10th century onwards, the local use wasSpaleto,from where, through a stage*Spəlētu-to*Splětъ,came theSouth Slavicforms: the ekavianSplet,ijekavianSpljetand ikavianSplit.[8]In the 19th century, following theIllyrian movementand its official recognition by theHabsburg Monarchy,theCroatiannamesSplitandSpljetbecame increasingly prominent, beforeSplitofficially replacedSpljetin 1910, by decision of the city council.[9]

Formerly, the name was thought to be related to Latinpalatium'palace', a reference toDiocletian's Palace.Various theories were developed, such as the notion that the name derives fromS. Palatium,an abbreviation ofSalonaePalatium.The erroneous "palace" etymologies were notably due to Byzantine EmperorConstantine VII Porphyrogenitus,and were later mentioned byThomas the Archdeacon.[10]The city, however, is several centuries older than the palace.

History

Antiquity

Although the beginnings of Split are traditionally associated with the construction ofDiocletian's Palacein 305, the city was founded several centuries earlier as theGreek colonyofAspálathos,orSpálathos.It was a colony of thepolisofIssa,the modern-day town ofVis,itself a colony of theSiciliancity ofSyracuse.[11]The exact year the city was founded is not known, but it is estimated to have been in the 3rd or 2nd century BC.[12]The Greek settlement lived off trade with the surroundingIllyriantribes, mostly theDelmatae.[11]

Reconstruction of thePalace of the Roman Emperor Diocletianin its original appearance upon completion in 305, byErnest Hébrard

After theIllyrian Warsof 229 and 219 BC, the city ofSalona,only a short distance from Spálathos, became the capital of the RomanProvince of Dalmatiaand one of thelargest cities of the late empirewith 60,000 people. The history of Spálathos becomes obscure for a while at this point, being overshadowed by that of nearby Salona, to which it would later become successor. TheRoman EmperorDiocletian(ruled AD 284 to 305) in 293 began the construction of an opulent and heavily fortified palace fronting the sea, near his home town of Salona, selecting the site of Spálathos (orSpalatumin Latin).[13][14]The Palace was built as a massive structure, much like a Roman military fortress. The palace and the city of Spalatum which formed its surroundings were at times inhabited by a population as large as 8,000 to 10,000 people.[15]

Between 475 and 480, the Palace hostedFlavius Julius Nepos,the last recognised Emperor of theWestern Roman Empire.Salona was lost to theOstrogothic Kingdomin 493, along with most of Dalmatia, but the EmperorJustinian Iregained Dalmatia in 535–536.

Middle Ages

ThePannonian Avarssacked and destroyed Salonain 639; the surviving Romans fled to the nearby islands. The Dalmatian region and its shores were at this time settled by tribes ofCroats,aSouth Slavicpeople subservient to the Avar khagans.[16]The Salonitans regained the land under Severus the Great in 650 and settled the 300-year-old Palace of Diocletian, which could not be effectively besieged by the Slavic tribes of the mainland.[16]The EmperorConstans IIgranted them an Imperial mandate to establish themselves in the Palace as the City of Spalatum, which imposed upon the Croatian Slavs - at the time allies of Byzantium against the Avars - a cessation of hostilities.[16]TheTemple of Jupiterwas rededicated to the Virgin Mary and the remains of the popularSaint Domniuswere recovered from the ruins of Salona, later establishing theCathedral of Saint Domniusas new seat of theArchbishop of Salona.[16]

Until theSack of Constantinople,Split remained ade jurepossession of theByzantine Empireas a Byzantine duchy, administered by theExarchate of Ravennaand after 751 by Jadera (Zadar).[17] Its hinterland, however, was now home to theDuchy of the Croats.In this period, an independentDalmatian languagedeveloped fromLatin,with a distinct local dialect: to its inhabitants, the city became known asSpalatrumorSpalatro,one of the mainDalmatian city-states.

Statue of bishopGregory of Nin,in theGiardinPark

In 925,Tomislav'sKingdom of Croatiaemerged in the hinterland of the city, centered inNinas an ally of Byzantium againstSimeon I of Bulgaria- though without receiving any power from the Emperor over the Dalmatian cities.[17]The rise of the rival Bishopric of Nin, headed byBishop Gregory,which attempted to institute the "Slavonic" or "Slavic language" as the language of religious service, led to the 925 Synod of Split, at which it was decreed that "no one should presume to celebrate the divine mysteries in the Slavonic language, but only in Latin and Greek, and that no one of that tongue should be advanced to the holy orders".

In 1100, thebell towerwhich became the main symbol of the city was constructed and dedicated to Saint Domnius, by then regarded as thepatron saintof the city.

Throughout the 9th and 10th centuries, Split was raided by theNarentines(a South Slavic confederation recognizing the King of Croatia as their sovereign). Therefore, the city offered its allegiance toVeniceand in 998 theVenetianDogePietro II Orseolo,led a large naval expedition which defeated the Narentines the same year. After obtaining permission from EmperorBasil IIin Constantinople, Orseolo proclaimed himself Duke of Dalmatia. In 1019 the Byzantine Empire restored direct control over Dalmatia. The title "Duke of Dalmatia" seems to have been dropped at this point by the Venetian doges. In 1069Peter Krešimir IV,King of Croatia,gained control over Dalmatian islands and cities, including Split, and stretched his rule south toNeretva.The coastal cities retained autonomous administration and were still nominally under Byzantine Empire, but were now subjects of the Croatian king.[18][19][20]

After the death of Croatian KingStephen IIin 1091, a period ofsuccession crisisfollowed in Croatia, with KingLadislaus I of Hungaryinterfering in it.[21]Byzantine EmperorAlexios I Komnenostook advantage of this and joined the oldTheme of Dalmatiato the Empire.[19][22]In 1096 Emperor Alexios I Komnenos, at the time engaged in theFirst Crusade,granted the administration of Dalmatia to the Doge of Venice.[22]

In 1105,Coloman, King of Hungary,having conquered the Kingdom of Croatia, reneged on its alliance with Venice and moved on the coastal towns, besieging and taking Zadar. Split and Trogir decided then to surrender upon guarantee of their ancient privileges.[16] The rights granted to the city (and reaffirmed by new charters) were substantial. Split was to pay no tribute, it was to choose its own count and archbishop whom the king would confirm, it preserved its old Roman laws, and appointed its own judge. Dues from trade (which were substantial in the period), were divided between the count, the archbishop, and the king, and no foreigner was to live within the walls of the city against the will of the citizens. These rights were generally upheld by Hungarian kings, but there were inevitable incidents of violation.

After Coloman's death in 1116, the DogeOrdelafo Falieroreturned fromOutremerand retook all the Dalmatian cities, and also, for the first time, the Croatian cities of coast such as Biograd andŠibenik.In 1117, however, he was defeated and killed in renewed battle with the Hungarians underStephen II of Hungary,and Split again acknowledged Hungarian rule. The new Doge,Domenico Michiel,quickly defeated the Hungarians again and restored Venetian authority by 1118. In 1124, while the Doge was engaged against the Byzantine Empire, now hostile to Venice, Stephen II recovered Split and Trogir without resistance. Upon Michele's return in 1127, however, the Doge yet again expelled the Hungarians from the two cities and utterly destroyed Biograd, the favored seat of the Croatian Kings that the Hungarians were attempting to establish as a rival to the Venetian Zadar.[16]

The cities remained in Venetian hands without contest during the reign ofBéla IIbut in 1141, his successor, KingGéza II,having conquered Bosnian lands, marched to Split and Trogir, both voluntarily accepting him as overlord. This turned out to be a definitive conquest, as Venetian rule was not to return to Split for another 186 years.

In that period, however, Split was to see one brief and final restoration of Imperial power in Dalmatia. The Byzantine EmperorManuel I Komnenosbegan his campaigns against the Kingdom of Croatia and Hungary in 1151, and by 1164, had secured the submission of the Dalmatian cities back under Imperial rule. Having won a decisive victory against Kingdom of Croatia and Hungary in 1167 at theBattle of Sirmium,consolidating his gains, the Emperor suddenly broke with Venice as well, and sent a fleet of 150 ships to the Adriatic. Split was to remain in Byzantine hands until Manuel's death in 1180, whenBéla III of Hungarymoved torestore Hungarian powerin Dalmatia. The city remained loyal to the Empire, resisting the re-establishment of Hungarian rule, and consequently, upon its inevitable submission, was punished with the King's refusal to renew its ancient privileges.[16]

During the 20-year Hungarian civil war between KingSigismundand theCapetian House of Anjouof theKingdom of Naples,the losing contender,Ladislaus of Naples,sold his disputed rights on Dalmatia to theVenetian Republicfor 100,000ducatsin 1409. Acting on the pretext, the Republic took over in the city by the year 1420.[23]

Venetian period

Overall view of Split in theEarly modern period(1764), an engraving byScottisharchitectRobert Adam.Marjan hill is visible in the background.
The city's seaward walls in 1764 in an engraving by Robert Adam.

By this time the population was largelyCroatian,[24]while RomanceDalmatiannames were not as common,[25]according to the Medieval city archives. The common language wasCroatian,but a variety of theVenetian languagewith someTuscaninfluences was also widely spoken byDalmatian Italiannotaries,school teachers, merchants, and officials.[26]The city's autonomy was greatly reduced: the highest authority was a prince and captain (conte e capitanio), assigned by Venice.[27]

Split eventually developed into a significant port-city, with important trade routes to theOttoman-held interior through the nearbyKlispass. Culture flourished as well, Split being the hometown ofMarko Marulić,the Croatiannational poet.Marulić's most acclaimed work,Judita(1501), was an epic poem aboutJudithandHolofernes,widely held to be the first modern work ofCroatian literature.It was written in Split and printed in Venice in 1521.[28]

The advances and achievements were reserved mostly for thearistocracy:theilliteracyrate was extremely high, mostly because Venetian rule showed little interest in educational and medical facilities.[citation needed]

In 1797, Split was ceded to theHabsburg monarchyby theTreaty of Campo Formio,as part of thedissolution and partitionof the ancientRepublic of Venice.[29]

Napoleonic wars

The Prokurative, now Republic Square, developed during the Mayoralty of Dr. Bajamonti and designed in 1859
TheProkurative,dating to the brief rule of theFrench Empire

Split became part of theNapoleonic Kingdom of Italyin 1805, after the defeat of theThird Coalitionat theBattle of Austerlitzand the consequentTreaty of Pressburg.It was included directly in theFrench Empirein 1806. The same year,Vincenzo Dandolowas namedprovveditore generaleand generalAuguste de Marmontwas named military commander of Dalmatia.[30]

In 1809, after a brief war with France,Austriaceded Carinthia, Carniola, Croatia west of the Sava River, Gorizia and Trieste to France. These territories, along with Dalmatia, formed theIllyrian Provinces.During this period, large investments were undertaken in the city, new streets were built and parts of the ancient fortifications were removed.[31][32] Austria, with help from a British force led by CaptainWilliam Hoste,occupied Split in November 1813.[33]Following theCongress of Viennain 1815, the city was officially ceded to Austria.[34]

Under Habsburg rule

TheRivaof Split in the 19th century, withMarjan hillin the background.
City center and theRivapromenade from the slopes of Marjan in 1910.

The Split region became part of theKingdom of Dalmatia,a separate administrative unit. After therevolutions of 1848as a result of theromantic nationalism,two factions appeared. One was the pro-CroatianUnionist faction(later called the"Puntari","Pointers" ), led by thePeople's Partyand, to a lesser extent, theParty of Rights,both of which advocated the union of Dalmatia with theKingdom of Croatia-Slavoniawhich was under Hungarian administration. This faction was strongest in Split, and used it as its headquarters. The other faction was the pro-ItalianAutonomistfaction (also known as the "Irredentist"faction), whose political goals varied from autonomy within theAustro-Hungarian Empire,to a political union with theKingdom of Italy.

The political alliances in Split shifted over time. At first, the Unionists and Autonomists were allied against thecentralismofVienna.After a while, when the national question came to prominence, they separated. Under Austria, however, Split can generally be said to have stagnated. The great upheavals in Europe in 1848 gained no ground in Split, and the city did not rebel.

Antonio Bajamontibecame Mayor of Split in 1860 and – except for a brief interruption during the period 1864–65 – held the post for over two decades until 1880. Bajamonti was also a member of theDalmatian Sabor(1861–91) and theAustrian Chamber of Deputies(1867–70 and 1873–79). In 1882 Bajamonti's party lost the elections andDujam Rendić-Miočević,a prominent city lawyer, was elected to the post.

As part of Yugoslavia

Kingdom of Yugoslavia

After the end ofWorld War Iand the dissolution ofAustria-Hungary,the province ofDalmatia,along with Split, became a part of theKingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.Split was the site ofa series of incidents between 1918 and 1920. SinceRijeka,TriesteandZadar,the three other large cities on the eastern Adriatic coast, were annexed byItaly,Split became the most important port in the Kingdom. TheLika railway,connecting Split to the rest of the country, was completed in 1925. The country changed its name to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929, and thePort of Splitbecame the seat of new administrative unit,Littoral Banovina.After theCvetković-Maček agreement,Split became the part of new administrative unit (merging of Sava and Littoral Banovina plus some Croat populated areas),Banovina of Croatiain the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

World War II

Italian warshipin the City Harbour after the annexation intoItalyin 1941.
German vehicles in the city streets. The sign reads "Death to fascism – freedom to the people".

In April 1941, following theinvasion of YugoslaviabyNazi Germany,Split was occupied by Italy. Although Split formally became part of theIndependent State of Croatia,theUstašewere not able to establish and strengthen their rule in Split, as Italians assumed all power in Dalmatia. One month later, on 18 May 1941, when theTreaties of Romewere signed, Italy formally annexed Split, which was included in theprovince of Spalato,and large parts of Dalmatia down toKotor.[35][36]The ItalianGovernatorate of Dalmatiahosted 390,000 inhabitants, of which 280,000 Croats, 90,000 Serbs and 5,000Dalmatian Italians.[37] Italian rule met heavy opposition from the Croat population as Split became a centre of anti-fascist sentiment in Yugoslavia. The first armed resistance group was organized on 7 May 1941 and the 63 member strong 1st Strike Detachment (Prvi udarni odred) served as the basis for future formations, including the1st Split Partisan Detachment.[38]Between September and October 1941 alone, ten officials of the Italian fascist occupation were assassinated by the citizens.[39] On 12 June 1942, a fascist mob attacked the city's synagogue, and destroyed its library and archive. Worshipers were beaten as they left the synagogue and Jewish-owned shops were targeted the following day.[40] The local football clubs refused to compete in the Italian championship;HNK HajdukandRNK Splitsuspended their activities and both joined the Partisans along with their entire staff after the Italian capitulation provided the opportunity. Soon after Hajduk became the official football club of the Partisan movement.

In September 1943, following the capitulation of Italy,[37]the city was temporarily controlled by MarshalJosip Broz Tito's brigades with thousands of people volunteering to join thePartisansof Tito (a third of the total population, according to some sources). Eight thousand Italian soldiers from the15th Infantry Division Bergamoprepared to fight alongside the Yugoslav Partisans against theWaffen SSPrinz Eugen.Italian General Becuzzi handed over to the Partisans 11 soldiers which they considered as "war criminals".[citation needed]The Partisans also executed up to 41 members of the Italian Police forces, later found in mass graves.[41][relevant?]

A few weeks later, however, the Partisans were forced into retreat as theWehrmachtplaced the city under the authority of theIndependent State of Croatia.The Germans decimated the Italian soldiers as traitors, including three Generals (Policardi,PelligraandCigala Fulgosi) and 48 officials (Trelj massacre).[42]In this period the last remaining symbols of Italian heritage in Split, including several VenetianLions of St. Mark,were erased from the town.

In a tragic turn of events, besides being bombed by Axis forces, the city was also bombed by the Allies, causing hundreds of deaths. Partisans finally captured the city on 26 October 1944 and instituted it as the provisional capital of Croatia. On 12 February 1945, theKriegsmarineconducted a daring raid on the Split harbour, damaging the British cruiserDelhi.After the war the remaining members ofDalmatian Italiansof Split left Yugoslavia towards Italy (Istrian-Dalmatian exodus).[43]

Federal Yugoslavia

TheYugoslav-eraCoat of arms of Split.Introduced in 1967, it was based on the Medieval rectangular arms, dating at least from the 14th century (and likely much earlier).

After World War II, Split became a part of theSocialist Republic of Croatia,itself a constituent sovereign republic of theSocialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.During the period the city experienced its largest economic and demographic boom. Dozens of new factories and companies were founded with the city population tripling during the period. The city became the economic centre of an area exceeding the borders of Croatia and was flooded by waves of rural migrants from the undeveloped hinterland who found employment in the newly established industry, as part of large-scaleindustrializationand investment by the Yugoslav Federal Government.[citation needed]

The shipbuilding industry was particularly successful and Yugoslavia, with itsCroatianshipyards, became one of the world's top nations in the field. Many recreational facilities were also constructed with federal funding, especially for the 1979Mediterranean Games,such as thePoljud Stadium.The city also became the largest passenger and military port in Yugoslavia, housing the headquarters of theYugoslav Navy(Jugoslavenska ratna mornarica,JRM) and theArmy'sCoastal Military District (equivalent of afield army). In the period between 1945 and 1990, the city was transformed and expanded, taking up the vast majority of the Splitpeninsula.In the same period it achieved an as yet unsurpassed GDP and employment level, still above the present day's, growing into a significant Yugoslav city.[citation needed]

Since independence

When Croatia declared its independence again in 1991, Split had a large garrison ofYugoslav People's Army(JNA) troops (drafted from all over Yugoslavia), as well as the headquarters and facilities of theYugoslav Navy(JRM). This led to a tense months-long stand-off between the JNA and Croatian National Guard and police forces, occasionally flaring up in various incidents. The most tragic incident occurred on 15 November 1991, when theJRM light frigateSplitfired a small number of shells at the city and its surroundings. The damage was insignificant but there were a few casualties. Three general locations were bombarded: the old city center, the city airport, and an uninhabited part of the hills aboveKaštela,between the airport and Split. JRM sailors, most of them Croats themselves, who had refused to attack Croat civilians were left in the vessel's brig. The JNA and JRM evacuated all of its facilities in Split during January 1992. The 1990s economic recession soon followed.

In the years following 2000, Split finally gained momentum and started to develop again, with a focus on tourism. From being just a transport centre, Split is now a major Croatian tourist destination. Many new hotels are being built, as well as new apartment and office buildings. Many large development projects are being revived, and new infrastructure is being built. An example of one of the latest large city projects is theSpaladium Arena,built in 2009.

Geography

Panorama view of Split and surroundings from atop theMarjan

Split is situated on apeninsulabetween the eastern part of theGulf of Kaštelaand theSplit Channel.TheMarjan hill(178 m (584 ft)), rises in the western part of the peninsula. TheKozjak(779 m (2,556 ft)) andMosor(1,339 m (4,393 ft)) ridges protect the city from the north and northeast, and separate it from the hinterland.

Split is administratively divided into 34 citykotars:[44][45]

Climate

Split and the surrounding satellite towns, as seen from space.

Split has aMediterranean climate(Csa) in theKöppen climate classification.It experiences hot, moderately dry summers and mild, wet winters, which can occasionally feel cold, because of a strong northern wind, termedbura.

January is the coldest month, with an average low temperature around 6 °C (43 °F). July is the hottest month, with an average high temperature around 31 °C (88 °F). Average annualrainfallis around 800 mm (31.50 in). November is the wettest month, with a precipitation total of nearly 120 mm (4.72 in) and 12 rainy days. July is the driest month, with a precipitation total of around 25 mm (0.98 in). Snow is usually rare, though in February 2012, duringcold wave in Europe,Split received a record snowfall of 25 cm (9.84 in), which caused major problems with traffic.[46][47]Split receives more than 2,600 sunshine hours annually.

In July 2017, Croatian firefighters battled to control a forest fire along the Adriatic coast that damaged and destroyed buildings in villages around the city of Split.

Climate data for Split (Marjan Hill,1991–2020, extremes 1948–2019)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 17.4
(63.3)
22.3
(72.1)
24.3
(75.7)
27.7
(81.9)
33.2
(91.8)
38.1
(100.6)
38.6
(101.5)
38.5
(101.3)
34.2
(93.6)
27.9
(82.2)
25.8
(78.4)
18.6
(65.5)
38.6
(101.5)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 10.7
(51.3)
11.5
(52.7)
14.5
(58.1)
18.4
(65.1)
23.4
(74.1)
28.1
(82.6)
31.0
(87.8)
30.9
(87.6)
25.4
(77.7)
20.5
(68.9)
15.6
(60.1)
11.8
(53.2)
20.2
(68.3)
Daily mean °C (°F) 8.2
(46.8)
8.7
(47.7)
11.3
(52.3)
14.9
(58.8)
19.7
(67.5)
24.2
(75.6)
26.8
(80.2)
26.8
(80.2)
21.7
(71.1)
17.4
(63.3)
13.1
(55.6)
9.4
(48.9)
16.8
(62.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 5.9
(42.6)
6.0
(42.8)
8.5
(47.3)
11.8
(53.2)
16.1
(61.0)
20.2
(68.4)
22.8
(73.0)
22.9
(73.2)
18.4
(65.1)
14.7
(58.5)
10.8
(51.4)
7.2
(45.0)
13.8
(56.8)
Record low °C (°F) −9.0
(15.8)
−8.1
(17.4)
−6.6
(20.1)
0.3
(32.5)
4.8
(40.6)
9.1
(48.4)
13.0
(55.4)
11.2
(52.2)
8.8
(47.8)
3.8
(38.8)
−4.5
(23.9)
−6.3
(20.7)
−9.0
(15.8)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 72.7
(2.86)
63.8
(2.51)
58.4
(2.30)
62.0
(2.44)
57.8
(2.28)
49.2
(1.94)
24.6
(0.97)
31.7
(1.25)
82.3
(3.24)
79.6
(3.13)
119.8
(4.72)
98.7
(3.89)
800.6
(31.53)
Average precipitation days(≥ 0.1 mm) 10.5 9.4 9.6 10.4 9.4 7.8 5.1 4.6 8.2 9.3 11.7 11.9 107.9
Average snowy days 0.3 0.6 0.3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.1 0.2 1.5
Averagerelative humidity(%) 61 59 59 59 56 53 49 51 58 63 65 61 58
Mean monthlysunshine hours 139.5 151.7 195.1 221.5 277.9 317.8 358.7 335.0 246.3 197.8 129.3 127.9 2,698.5
Percentpossible sunshine 47 55 54 56 65 72 81 79 70 61 50 48 63
Source 1:NOAA NCEI[48]
Source 2:Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service(percent sun-extremes)[49][50]
Climate data for Split[48]
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean No. of days with Maximum temperature ≥ 30.0 °C (86.0 °F) 0 0 0 0 0.7 9.7 20.8 20.5 2.5 0 0 0 54.2
Mean No. of days with Minimum temperature < 0.0 °C (32.0 °F) 1.4 2.0 0.4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.9 4.8
Mean No. of days with Precipitation ≥ 10.0 mm (0.39 in) 2.7 2.3 1.9 2.1 2.0 1.5 0.6 1.0 2.7 2.4 4.0 3.3 26.7
Mean No. of days with Snow Depth ≥ 1.0 cm (0.39 in) 0 0.7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.7
Mean number of days withthunder 2.2 1.8 1.7 2.5 3.7 4.6 3.8 4.1 4.7 3.1 4.2 2.7 39
Mean number of days withhail 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 2.2
Mean number of days withfog/Ice fog 0.1 0.3 0.4 0.3 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.0 1.7
Average sea temperature:[49]
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
12.0 °C (53.6 °F) 11.5 °C (52.7 °F) 11.9 °C (53.4 °F) 13.8 °C (56.8 °F) 17.3 °C (63.1 °F) 21.1 °C (70.0 °F) 23.2 °C (73.8 °F) 23.6 °C (74.5 °F) 21.7 °C (71.1 °F) 19.3 °C (66.7 °F) 16.4 °C (61.5 °F) 13.7 °C (56.7 °F) 17.1 °C (62.8 °F)

Demographics

Historical population
YearPop.±%
185712,417
186914,587+17.5%
188016,883+15.7%
189018,483+9.5%
190021,925+18.6%
191025,103+14.5%
192129,155+16.1%
193140,029+37.3%
194854,187+35.4%
195364,874+19.7%
196185,374+31.6%
1971129,203+51.3%
1981176,303+36.5%
1991200,459+13.7%
2001188,694−5.9%
2011178,102−5.6%
2021160,577−9.8%

According to the 2021 census, the city of Split had 160,577 inhabitants.[3] Ethnically, Croats make up 96.42% of the population, and 77.53% of the residents of the city areRoman Catholics.[51]

The settlements included in the administrative area of the City (2011) are:[52]

The wider urban area of Split has 293,298 inhabitants, while there are 346,314 people in the Split metropolitan area.[citation needed]The urban area includes the surrounding towns and settlements:Okrug,Seget,Trogir,Kaštela,Solin,Podstrana,Dugi RatandOmiš,while the metro area addsMarina,Primorski Dolac,Prgomet,Lećevica,Klis,Dugopolje,Dicmo,TriljandSinj.The entireSplit-Dalmatia Countyhas 454,798 residents, and the whole region ofDalmatiajust under a million.[53]

City of Split:Population trends 1857–2021
population
12417
14587
16883
18438
21925
25103
29155
40029
54187
64874
85374
129203
176303
200459
188694
178102
160577
18571869188018901900191019211931194819531961197119811991200120112021

Inhabitants

A "Morlach"(Vlaj) peasant in Split, 1864.

Although the inhabitants of Split (Splićani) may appear to be a homogeneous body, they traditionally belong to three groups. The old urban families, theFetivi,(short for "Fetivi Splićani","real Split natives ") are generally very proud of their city, its history and its distinctive traditional speech[54](a variant of theChakaviandialect). TheFetivi,now a distinct minority, are sometimes referred to (semi-derogatorily) as "Mandrili"- and are augmented by the so-calledBoduli,immigrants from the nearbyAdriatic islandswho mostly arrived over the course of the 20th century.[55]

The above two groups are distinct, in theMediterranean aspectsof their ethnicity and traditional Chakavian speech, from the more numerousShtokavian-speaking immigrants from the ruralZagorahinterland, referred to as theVlaji(a term that sometimes carries negative connotations). The latter joined the Fetivi and Boduli as a third group in the decades since World War II, thronging the high-rise suburbs that stretch away from the centre.[55]By now theVlajiconstitute a decided majority of inhabitants, causing a distinct shift in the overall ethnic characteristics of the city. Historically more influenced byOttomanculture,their population merges almost seamlessly at the eastern border with theHerzegovinian Croatsand southernBosnia and Herzegovinain general.[54][55]Local jokes have always condemned the Vlaji to playing the role of rural unsophisticates, although it is often conceded that it was their hard work in the industries of the post-WWII era that made modern-day Split what it is now.[55]

Economy

Juice carrier sitting on a slipway atBrodosplit

Split's economy is still suffering the backlash from therecessioncaused by the transfer to amarket economyandprivatization.[citation needed]In the Yugoslav era, however, the city had been a highly significant economic centre with a modern and diverse industrial and economic base, includingshipbuilding,food,chemical,plastics,textile,andpaper industry,in addition to large revenues from tourism.[citation needed]In 1981 Split's GDP per capita was 37% above the Yugoslav average.[56]Today, most of the factories are out of business (or are far below pre-war production and employment capacity)[citation needed]and the city has been trying to concentrate on commerce and services, consequently leaving an alarmingly large number of factory workers unemployed.

Dalmatia Tower,the tallest skyscraper in Croatia.

Brodosplitis the largest shipyard in Croatia. It employs around 2,300 people, and has built over 350 vessels, including many tankers, both panamax and non-panamax, as well as container ships, bulk carriers, dredgers, off-shore platforms, frigates, submarines, patrol boats and passenger ships. 80% of the ships built are exported to foreign contractors.

The new A1 motorway, integrating Split with the rest of the Croatian freeway network, has helped stimulate economic production and investment, with new businesses being built in the city centre and its wildly sprawling suburbs. The entire route was opened in July 2005. Today, the city's economy relies mostly ontradeandtourismwith some old industries undergoing partial revival, such as food (fishing,olive,wineproduction), paper,concreteand chemicals. Since 1998, Split has been host to the annualCroatia Boat Show.

Education

There are 24 primary schools and 23 secondary schools including 11 grammar schools.

University

Split University Library

The University of Split (Croatian:Sveučilište u Splitu) was founded in 1974. In the last few years it has grown to a large extent. Now it has 18,000 students and is organized in 12 faculties and 1 Academy (Arts Academy – Theatre department, Music department, Fine arts department and design). Split has the biggest university campus in Croatia with all the facilities. It houses all of the faculties, a large student centre with a sports hall, sporting grounds and a university library.

Culture

In 1979, the historic center of Split was included into theUNESCOlist ofWorld Heritage Sites.Split is said to be one of the centres of Croatian culture. Its literary tradition can be traced to medieval times, and includes names likeMarko Marulić,while in more modern times Split excelled by authors famous for their sense of humor. Among them the most notable isMiljenko Smoje,famous for his TV seriesMalo mistoandVelo misto,with the latter dealing with the development of Split into a modern city.

Despite colorful settings and characters, as well as a cinema tradition that could be traced to early 20th-century works ofJosip Karaman,there were relatively few films shot in or around Split. However, the city did produce several famous actors, most notablyBoris Dvornik.

Also well known isIvo Tijardović,and his famous operetta "Little Floramye"(Croatian:Mala Floramye). Both Smoje and Tijardović are famous artists thought to represent the old Split traditions that are slowly dying out due to the city being overwhelmed by large numbers of rural migrants from the undeveloped hinterland.

Museums and galleries

TheCroatian National Theatre in Split,built in 1893
Split Archaeological Museum

TheSplit Archaeological Museum(Croatian:Arheološki muzej) main collection is housed at Zrinsko-Frankopanska 25 in Split. There is also a branch building inSolin(Salonaand Tusculum Collection) and two regional centres atVidnearMetković(NaronaCollection), and on the island ofVis(Issa Collection). The Split Archaeological Museum is the oldest museum institution in Croatia, founded in 1820 by the decree of the Dalmatian government inZadar.Some 150,000 artifacts coverprehistorictimes, the period ofGreekcolonization of theAdriatic,RomanProvincial and EarlyChristian erato the earlyMiddle Agesand the period of Croatian popular rulers). Of special interest is the collection of stone inscriptions from Salona and the collections of Graeco-Hellenistic ceramic objects, Roman glass, ancient clay lamps, bone and metal articles, as well as the collection of gems. In addition, the museum houses an extensive collection of ancient and medieval coins, a submarine archaeological collection, and a rich archive library.[57]

TheMuseum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments(Croatian:Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) is the only museum in Croatia dedicated to researching and presenting cultural artifacts of the Croats in the Middle Ages, between the 7th and 15th centuries, particularly the time of the early medieval Croatian state from 9th to 12th century. The collection of early medieval wicker, clay figurines, and old Croatian Latin epigraphic monuments is the largest collection of its kind in Europe.[58]

The Split City Museum (Croatian:Muzej Grada Splita) at Papalićeva 1, is housed in the former Papalić Palace. The collection presents the urban, cultural, artistic and economic heritage of the city. The museum is also home to theEmanuel VidovićGallery, dedicated to the most important Split painter of the 20th century.[59][60]

The Ethnographical Museum (Croatian:Etnografski muzej) at Severova 1, has a wide range ofethnographiccontent mainly fromDalmatia.Founded in 1910, the museum collects original and contemporary applications of traditional heritage. They also track contemporary popular culture living with traces of old foundations and preserve and promote the value of folk heritage, renewing them and presenting exhibitions.[60]

The Croatian Maritime Museum (Croatian:Hrvatski pomorski muzej) at Glagoljaška 18 – Tvrđava Gripe has a collection of marine equipment and supplies, weapons and navigation equipment, medals, ship models, uniforms and equipment, and related artwork. A permanent exhibition is planned to complete the presentation of military maritime and naval history, with a presentation that covers the period from the arrival of the Slavs to the present day.[60]

TheSplit Science Museum and Zoo(Croatian:Prirodoslovni muzej i zoološki vrt) located at Kolombatovićevo šetalište 2 on theMarjanpeninsula.[61]

TheGallery of Fine Arts(Croatian:Galerija umjetnina), located at Kralja Tomislava 15, is anart museumthat contains works from the 14th century to the present day providing an overview of the artistic developments in the local art scene. The gallery was founded in 1931, and has a permanent exhibition ofpaintingsandsculpturesthat includes works by major Croatian artists such asVlaho Bukovac,Mato Celestin Medović,Branislav Dešković,Ivan Meštrović,Emanuel VidovićandIgnjat Job.The gallery also has an extensive collection oficons,and holds special exhibits of works by contemporary artists. In May 2009, the gallery opened its new premises in the old Split Hospital building behindDiocletian's Palace.[62]

TheIvan Meštrović Gallery(Croatian:Galerija Meštrović), on theMarjanpeninsula is anart museumdedicated to the work of the 20th-centurysculptor,Ivan Meštrović.The gallery displays some of his most significant work, and the building itself is an art monument.[63]The permanent collection includes works ofsculpture,drawings,design,furnitureandarchitecture.The gallery building and grounds were based on original plans by Meštrović himself, and included living and working areas, as well as exhibition spaces.[64]Not far from the Gallery lies Kaštelet-Crikvine, a restored chapel that houses a set of wooden wall panels carved by Ivan Meštrović.[65]

Other notable artists from Split includeOskar Herman,Tina Morpurgo,Emanuel Vidović,andPaško Vučetić.

Music

One of the most recognisable aspects of Split culture is popular music. Notable composers includeGiulio Bajamonti,Franz von Suppé,Josip Hatze,Jakov Gotovac,Ivo Tijardović,Ruben Radica,Zdenko Runjić,Tonči Huljić– some of the most influential musicians in former Habsburg Empire, former Yugoslavia, and contemporary Croatia.

Also, the more notable musicians and bands from Split areOliver Dragojević,Gibonni,Daleka Obala,Magazin,Severina,Dino Dvornik,Jasmin Stavros,Neno Belan,Goran Karan,Dražen Zečić,Doris Dragović,Jelena Rozga,Tutti Frutti,Siniša Vuco,Meri Cetinićand guitar playerPetar Čulić.

There is great cultural activity during summers, when the prestigiousSplit Music Festivalis held, followed by theSplit Summer (Splitsko ljeto) theater festival.Since 2013, theUltra Europeelectronic music festival is held at thePoljud stadiumand as of 2019. at thePark Mladeži Stadiumin July.

Split also developed a prominent hip hop scene, with notable acts such asThe Beat Fleet,Dječaci, Kiša Metaka and ST!llness.

Sports

Poljud Stadium,commissioned for the1979Mediterranean Games
Spaladium Arena
Ante Žižić,who has played in the NBA, is from Split

Sportsmenare traditionally held in high regard in Split, and the city is famous for producing many champions. The most popular sports in Split areassociation football,tennis,basketball,swimming,rowing,sailing,waterpolo,athletics,andhandball.Residents of Split prefer to call their city as "the sportiest city in the world". The main footballclubisHNK Hajduk Split,one of the most popular clubs in Croatia supported by a large fan association known asTorcida Split,whileRNK Splitis the city's second club. Torcida Split is the oldest fan group in Europe estimated 1950. The largest football stadium is thePoljud Stadium(Hajduk's ground), with around 35,000 capacity (55,000 prior to the renovation to an all-seater).Slaven Bilić,Aljoša Asanović,Igor Tudor,Robert Jarni,andStipe Pletikosaare some of the famous Split natives who started their careers at Hajduk.Basketballis also popular, and the city basketball club,KK Split,holds the record of winning theEuroLeaguethree consecutive times (1989–1991), with notable players likeToni KukočandDino Rađa,both of whom are Split natives.

FormerWWEwrestler andWWE Hall of Famemember Josip Peruzović, better known asNikolai Volkoff,was born in Split.

Split's most famous tennis players are the retired 2001WimbledonchampionGoran Ivanišević,Mario Ančić(Super Mario),Nikola PilićandŽeljko Franulović.Marina Erakovićwas also born in Split.

Members of the local rowing clubHVK Gusarwon numerousOlympicandWorld Championshipmedals.

Swimming also has a long tradition in Split, withĐurđica Bjedov(1968 Olympic gold medal and Olympic record in the 100 m breaststroke),Duje DraganjaandVanja Roguljas the most famous swimmers from the city. As a member of the ASK Split athletics club, the championBlanka Vlašićalso originates from the city. The biggest sports events to be held in Split were the1979 Mediterranean Games,and the1990 European Athletics Championships.

Split was one of the host cities of the2009 World Men's Handball Championship.The city constructed a new sporting arena for the event, theSpaladium Arena.Its capacity is around 12,000 spectators (in basketball events). The cost of the arena was evenly divided between the city and the government.[66]Ivano Balić,two timeIHF World Player of the Yearis the most famous handball player to come from Split.

Split used to be the home to three top-level water polo clubs, the winners of many domestic and international titles:Jadran(twiceLEN Champions Leaguewinner),Mornar(LEN Cup Winners' Cupwinner) and now defunctPOŠK(one LEN Champions League, oneLEN Super Cupand two times LEN Cup Winners' Cup winner). Many players from Split have participated at the Olympic Games,World,andEuropean Championships,both for Croatia and Yugoslavia, having won several medals. Several water polo players from Split have been considered the best in the world during their careers:Ratko Rudić,Damir Polić,Milivoj Bebić,andDeni Lušić.

Piciginis a traditional local sport (originating in 1908), played on the famous sandy Bačvice beach. It is played in very shallow water (just ankle-deep) with a small ball. Picigin is played by five players. The ball is the peeled tennis ball. There is a tradition of playing picigin in Split on New Year's Day, regardless of the weather conditions, in spite of the sea temperature rarely exceeding 15 °C (59 °F).

RK Nadawere the pioneers ofrugby unionin this part of the World. They were by far the strongest club in the former Yugoslavia and they are also by far the most successful club in modern-day Croatia.

Baseballin Split is one of the city's longest sporting traditions. Although the sport began semi-officially in December 1918 when a group of US sailors from a ship in port introduced the game to some young Croats, it was not until 1972 when a pair of teachers at a local school formed the Salona Baseball Club, named after the ancient Roman city ofSalona.The first actual game played in Split was on 9 September 1978 between Split (the new team moved here and was called Nada) and Jezice from Ljubljana, a 20–1 romp for the locals. A schedule of games began in earnest and by 1980 there were regular league games. The next major milestone was in 1983 when the World Baseball Federation (IBAF)[clarification needed]accepted Yugoslavia as an official member. The Croatian National Baseball Federation was established in 1989.

Today, the Croatian national baseball team (with 10 or more members coming from Split's Nada team) is ranked 25th in the world. Split's team, Nada, plays its home games at the old Hajduk stadium, where the rugby club also plays. Without a mound, it is not a regulation field. The team's main rival is Zagreb and there are teams from half a dozen other cities around the country. In addition to playing other Croatian teams, inter-league games are played and the team travels to Belgrade and other cities to play. Although not a professional team or league, some player/coaches are paid. Several have pro experience and the new coach of the national team was a former major league pitcher with the LA Dodgers. The source material here is from Mladen Cukrov's bookThere's No Ball Like Baseball(Nima baluna do bejzbola) and from the writer's experience as an assistant coach of the team for several years.

The Split SeaWolves club is the onlyAmerican footballteam in Dalmatia. Active from 2008, they are currently still developing and the main focus is on a flag football team.

Transportation

ThePort of Split(passenger section), a regional passenger hub. The North Port (not shown) is for cargo ships.

Split is an important transport center forDalmatiaand the wider region. In addition to theZagreb-Split freeway (A1), the traffic along the Adriatic coast on theAdriatic HighwayfromRijekatoDubrovnikflows through the city. The local public transport companyPromet Splitruns bus lines in the city and into the surroundings. There is notramsince the city is unsuitable for it due to its hilly geography.

TheSplit AirportinKaštela,located about 20 km outside of Split, is the second largest in Croatia in terms of passenger numbers (2.89 million in 2021).[67]It has services to national and some European destinations year-round and sees lots of additional seasonal connections in the summer.

ThePort of Split,which serves 4 million passengers every year,[68]is the third busiest port in theMediterranean.It connects Split to the nearby central Dalmatian islandsBrač,HvarandŠolta,as well as the more distantVis,Korčula,MljetandLastovo.There are also routes toRijeka,Dubrovnik,andAnconain Italy and additional seasonal routes to further destinations in Italy. Split is also becoming a majorcruise shipdestination, with over 260 ship visits, carrying 130,000 passengers.

Split has a railway station located in the city center just near the main port (in the souther part of the peninsula), which serves as a terminus forCroatian Railways'long-distancelimited-stop servicetrains (which run between Split and country's capital cityZagreb) and commuter trains which run between Split andKaštel Starias a part ofSplit Suburban Railway.There are also summer-seasonal limited-stop overnight trains between Split andOsijek/Vukovar(passenger service provided by Croatian Railways),Budapest(passenger service provided byMAV),Vienna/Bratislava(passenger service provided byÖBBANDŽSSK).[69][70]Other than the terminus station, the city has one additional train station "Split Predgrađe" (lit. "Split Suburbia" ) located in the part of the city called "Kopilica" (in the northern part of peninsula) which is served by both long-distance and commuter trains.[71]

Gallery

International relations

Twin towns—Sister cities

Split istwinnedwith:[72]

Partnerships

Split ispartneredwith:

Notable people

Louis Cukela,Split-born US Marine Major, one of 19 two-time recipients of theMedal of Honor

See also

References

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Further reading

External links