Sumela Monastery

Sumela Monastery

Μονή Παναγίας Σουμελά, Sümela Manastırı
View of Sumela monastery from across the valley
Location within Turkey
Monastery information
Established	c. 386 CE
Disestablished	1923
Architecture
Status	Ruins
Functional status	Tourist attraction
Heritage designation	Tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site
Site
Location	Maçka,Trabzon Province,Turkey
Coordinates	40°41′24″N39°39′30″E
Public access	Yes
Website	www.sumela.gov.tr

The monastery is on a ledge in a steep cliff

Sumela Monastery as illustrated in a postcard addressed in 1903

The "back yard" of the monastery today

Sumela Monastery(Greek:Μονή Παναγίας Σουμελά,Moní Panagías Soumelá;Turkish:Sümela Manastırı) is aGreek Orthodoxmonasterydedicated toMarylocated atKaradağ(Greek:Sou Melá,lit. 'Black Mountain')within thePontic Mountains,in theMaçkadistrict ofTrabzon Provincein modernTurkey.

Nestled in a steep cliff at an elevation of about 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) facing theAltındere valley,it is a site of great historical and cultural significance, as well as a major tourist attraction withinAltındere National Park.Due to an increase in rock falls, on 22 September 2015 the monastery was closed to the public for safety reasons for the duration of one year to resolve the problem; this was later extended to three years. It reopened to tourists 25 May 2019.The monastery is one of the most important historic and touristic venues in Trabzon.

Etymology

Soumela comes from the Greek 'Sou Melá', meaning "of black (mountain)" (as in the dark/black mountain).

History

It is not known when the monastery was founded, but the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism places the date around AD 386, during the reign of the emperorTheodosius I(375–395 AD).According toWilliam Miller,two Athenian monks named Barnabas and Sophronios founded the monastery. It became famous for aniconof theTheotokosknown as thePanagia Gorgoepekoos,said to have been painted by theApostle Luke.

During its long history, the monastery fell into ruin several times and was restored by various emperors. During the 6th century AD, it was restored and enlarged by theByzantinegeneralBelisariusat the behest of emperorJustinian.

It reached its present form in the 13th century after gaining prominence during the existence of theEmpire of Trebizond.While the emperorsBasilandJohn IIhad endowed the monastery richly, it was during the reign ofAlexios III(1349–1390) that Sumela received its most important largess: according to legend, the young Alexios was saved from a storm by the Theotokos, and was bidden by her to restore the monastery. Achrysobulldated to 1365 confirms the freedom and autonomy of the monastery, together with all of its hereditary lands and dependents; exempts them from all taxes, except for one biannual tax; and restores to it the serfs whom the tax-collectors of Matzouka had illegally taken from it, listing 40 of the serfs by name. At that time, the monastery was granted an amount annually from imperial funds.During the time ofManuel III,son of Alexios III, and during the reigns of subsequent princes, Sumela gained further wealth from imperial grants.

Following the conquest by theOttomanSultanMehmed IIin 1461, it was granted the sultan's protection and given rights and privileges that were renewed by following sultans. The monastery remained a popular destination for monks and travelers through the years.

In 1682 and for the following decades, the monastery housed thePhrontisterion of Trapezous,a well-known Greek educational institution of the region.

Modern period

Until the end of the Russian occupation of Trabzon (1916–1918), the Sumela Monastery was active and was visited by monks and Christian and Muslim pilgrims. In 1923, theOttoman Empirecollapsed and after the National War of Liberation, an independent Turkish Republic was founded by Ataturk. After 1923, the Sumela Monastery was abandoned following thepopulation exchange between Greece and Turkeyas laid down in theTreaty of Lausanne.In 1930, those who migrated founded a new monastery which they named as the new Panagia Sumela Monastery on the slopes ofMount Vermion,near the village of Kastania nearVeria,in Macedonia, Greece. Some treasures from the old Sumela Monastery were carried to the new one in Greece.

In 1930, the wooden parts of the Sumela Monastery were destroyed by fire and in the years following other parts of the monastery were damaged and pillaged by treasure hunters.

As of 25 May 2019the Sumela Monastery is a museum open to visitors. Restoration work is funded by the Government of Turkey.As of 2012, the Turkish government is funding reconstruction work, and the monastery is enjoying a revival in pilgrimage from Greece, Georgia and Russia. The monastery's primary function is as a tourist attraction. It overlooks forests and streams, making it popular for its aesthetics as well as its cultural and religious significance.

On 15 August 2010,Orthodoxdivine liturgywas allowed to take place in the monastery compound.A special pass issued by theEcumenical Patriarchate of Constantinopleis required to visit onAugust 15,the day of theDormition of the TheotokosorFeast of the Assumption,when a divine liturgy is held. Only 450 to 500 visitors are allowed inside the monastery, although widescreen televisions are available to observe the event at a nearby cafe.

On 22 September 2015, the Monastery was closed to visitors for three years due to necessary restoration and field work. It reopened on May 18, 2019.

In 2022, video footage showed modern music and dancing at the site. Amid outcry on the internet that the historic monastery was turned into a dance club, an explanation was given that this was done to promote tourism.

Construction and buildings

View of Sümela

The principal elements of the Monastery complex are the Rock Church, several chapels, kitchens, student rooms, a guesthouse, a library, and a sacred spring revered byEastern Orthodox Christians.

The large aqueduct at the entrance, which supplied water to the Monastery, is constructed against the side of the cliff. The aqueduct has many arches which have mostly been restored. The entrance to the Monastery leads up a long and narrow stairway. There is a guard-room next to the entrance. The stairs lead down from there to the inner courtyard. On the left, in front of a cave, there are several monastery buildings. The cave, which was converted into a church, constitutes the center of the monastery. The library is to the right.

The large building with a balcony on the front part of the cliff was used for the monks' cells and for housing guests. It dates from 1840.

Restoration works in 2019

The inner and outer walls of the Rock Church and the walls of the adjacent chapel are decorated with frescoes. Frescoes dating from the era ofAlexios III of Trebizondline the inner wall of the Rock Church facing the courtyard.The frescoes of the chapel which were painted on three levels in three different periods are dated to the beginning of the 18th century. The frescoes of the bottom band are of superior quality.

After restoration

The frescoes of the monastery are seriously damaged due to vandalism. The main subject of the frescoes are biblical scenes telling the story of Jesus and the Virgin Mary.

During the 2015–2017 restoration works, a secret tunnel was discovered which lead to a place which is believed to have served as a temple or chapel for Christians. Also, unseen frescoes were discovered depicting heaven and hell as well as life and death.

Gallery

• 
  Sümela
• 
• 
  Interior
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
  Rock Church
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

See also

• Hagia Sophia, Trabzon
• Mokissos

External links

• Turkish Government's website
• The History of the icon of Panagia Soumela
• VR Photography Inside of Panagia Soumela
• Greek Orthodox Liturgy in Turkey: Uncovering the Country's Non-Muslim Cultural Heritage
• Photos of Sumela Monastery
• Photographic survey of Sumela Monastery