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Fez (hat)

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For other uses, seeFez (disambiguation).
A fez

Thefez(Turkish:fes,Ottoman Turkish:فس,romanized:fes), also calledtarboosh/tarboush(Arabic:طربوش,romanized:ṭarbūš), is afeltheaddress in the shape of a short, cylindrical, peakless hat, usually red, typically with a blacktasselattached to the top. The name "fez" may refer to the Moroccan city ofFez,where thedyeto color the hat was extracted fromcrimsonberries. However, its origins are disputed.

The modern fez owes much of its popularity to the Ottoman era. It became a symbol of theOttoman Empirein the early 19th century. In 1827,Mahmud IImandated its use as a modern headdress for his new army, theAsakir-i Mansure-i Muhammediye.The decision was inspired by the Ottoman naval command, who had previously returned from theMaghrebhaving embraced the style. In 1829, Mahmud issued new regulations mandating use of the fez by all civil and religious officials. The intention was to replace theturban,which acted as a marker of identity and so divided rather than unified the population. A century later, in 1925, the fez wasoutlawedinTurkeyas part ofAtatürk's reforms.Since then, it has not been a part of Turkish men's clothing.

The fez has been used as part of soldiers' uniforms in many armies and wars for centuries, including theBahawalpur Regimentin Pakistan as late as the 1960s. It is still worn in parts ofSouth Asia,theMiddle East,North Africa,and inCape Town,South Africa. It has also been adopted by variousfraternal ordersin theEnglish-speaking world.

Etymology[edit]

The fez (Turkish:fes,Ottoman Turkish:فس,romanized:fes)[1]is also known as a tarboosh (Arabic:طربوش,romanized:ṭarbūš[2]), also spelt tarboush.[3]The wordtarbooshis thought to be aloanwordfromPersian:سر بوشش دادن(meaning "headdress" )[4]via theTurkish language,from Ottoman Turkish تيرپوس (terpos),[5][6]and is used mainly in the countries of theLevant(Syria, Lebanon, Palestine, and Jordan).[4]Tarboosh is considered to be a Turkish word composed of two elements,ter"sweat" andpošu"a light turban cloth".[6]

The fez takes its name from the Moroccan city ofFez,due to it being the source of the crimson berry once used to dye the felt.[7][8][9][10]

History[edit]

Portrait of the Ottoman SultanMahmud IIafter his clothing reforms

The origins of the hat are obscure.[11]It is either ofancient Greek,[8][9][12]Tunisian,[13][12]Moroccan,[14][15]orTurkishorigin.[10][16]It was popular especially during the later period of theOttoman Empireand its use spread throughout the empire,[17][10][18]and much of its popularity derives from this era.[19][20]

Initially, the fez was a brimless red, white, or blackbonnetover which a turban was wrapped (similar to a wrappedkeffiyeh). Later the turban was eliminated, the bonnet shortened, and the color fixed to red. Praying while wearing a fez—instead of a headdress with brim—was easier becauseMuslimsput their heads to the ground duringSalah(daily prayers).[21]

The tarboosh was depicted as an element of Turkish clothing as early as around 1460.[22]Mehmed the Conquerorwore a jeweled tarboosh wrapped in a whitesarıkto signify his right of the conquest of Constantinople.[23]In 1826, SultanMahmud IIof the Ottoman Empiresuppressed the Janissariesand began sweeping reforms of the military. Themodernised militaryadopted Western style uniforms and, as headdresses, the fez with a cloth wrapped around it. In 1827, 50,000 fezzes were ordered fromTunisfor the sultan's troops.[24]In 1829 the Sultan ordered his civil officials to wear the plain fez, and banned the wearing ofturbans.[25][26][27]The intention was to coerce the populace at large to update to the fez, and the plan was successful. This was a radically egalitarian measure, which replaced the elaboratesumptuary lawsthat signaled rank,religion,and occupation, foreshadowing theTanzimatreforms. Although tradesmen and artisans generally rejected the fez,[28]it became a symbol of modernity throughout the Near East, inspiring similar decrees in other nations (such asIranin 1873).[25]

An Arab "protest gathering" against British policy in Palestine, 1929

The original centre of production appears to have been inTunis.[12]To meet escalating demand, skilled fez makers were induced to immigrate from Tunisia toIstanbul,where factories were established in the neighborhood ofEyüp.[24]Styles soon multiplied, with nuances of shape, height, material, and hue competing in the market. The striking scarlet and merlot colors of the fez were initially achieved through an extract ofcornel.However, the invention of low-cost synthetic dyes soon shifted production of the hat to the factories ofStrakonice,Czech Republic(then in the Austrian Empire).[citation needed]

Hassan al-Banna,founder of theMuslim Brotherhood

The 1908Austro-Hungarian annexation of Bosnia-Herzegovinaresulted in aboycottof Austrian goods, which became known as the "Fez Boycott" due to the near-monopoly the Austrians then held on the production of the hat. Although the headdress survived, the year-long boycott brought the end of its universality in the Ottoman Empire as other styles became socially acceptable.[citation needed]

The societal position of the fez as a symbol of tradition led to its ban inTurkeyin 1925 byMustafa Kemal Atatürkin theHat Revolution,part ofhis modernizing reforms.[29]It was banned for similar reasons in 1958 in Egypt byGamal Abdel Nassergovernment, with Cairo having been one of the most important centers of production of the fez up until then.[11]Fez production has subsequently resumed in Egypt, but its sale is largely aimed at tourists.[11]

Symbolism[edit]

David Ben-GurionandYitzhak Ben-Zvias law students inIstanbulc. 1914

The fez was a symbol not only of Ottoman affiliation but also of religious adherence to Islam.[30]It was also the main headdress for Christians and Jews during theOttoman Empire.[31][better source needed]Jewish men wore the fez and referred to it by theArabicname "Tarboush", especially if they spoke Arabic (Egyptian,SyrianandPalestinian Jews).[32][33]In southern Asia, the fez had been adopted due to its links with theOttoman Empire.

Through the 19th and early 20th centuries the fez was the preferred headwear for Christians and Muslims in theBalkans,which at the time was still mostly under Ottoman suzerainty. There were variations on the fez in the Balkan states, mainly involving the addition of religious symbols on the front. In semi-independentMontenegro,a client state of the Ottoman Empire that enjoyed complete autonomy, its Orthodox citizens wore their fezzes with a Greek cross on the front. Supporters of theIllyrian movementamong South Slavs, especially inCroatia,wore their fezzes with astar and crescenton the front irrespective of religion, believing that the symbol predated the introduction of Islam in the Balkans. In 1850, regulations in the newly-autonomousPrincipality of Serbiaconcerning uniforms of ministerial officers specified the wear of red fezzes displaying theSerbian coat of arms.[34]The fez was a symbol of Arab nationalist resistance against the Zionism during theArab revolt in Palestinebetween 1936 and 1939 in theBritish Mandate.[35]

Over time, the fez came to be seen as part of anOrientalcultural identity. On the one hand this led to its banning as part of modernising reforms in Turkey (1925) and later in Egypt (1958).[29]On the other hand, the westernorientalistperception of it during the 20th century west as exotic and romantic lead to its vogue as part of men's luxury smoking outfit in the United States and the United Kingdom. It had also become associated with Ottoman domination across much of the former Ottoman empire andArabworld, though an exception isMorocco,where it became a symbol againstFrench colonisation.[30]Morocco remains one of the last places where the fez is occasionally worn, and remains a favoured part ofroyal courtdress.[30]

Military use[edit]

FrenchZouaveduring theCrimean War(1853–1856)
Ottoman soldiers during theGreco-Turkish War (1897)

A version of the fez was used as anarming capfor the 1400–1700s version of the mail armor head protector (a round metal plate or skull-cap, around which hung a curtain of mail to protect the neck and upper shoulder). The red fez with blue tassel was the standard headdress of theTurkish Armyfrom the 1840s until the introduction of akhakiservice dress and peaklesssun helmetin 1910. The only significant exceptions were cavalry and some artillery units who wore alambskinhat with colored cloth tops.[36]Albanianlevies wore a white version of the fez, resembling their traditionalqeleshe.DuringWorld War Ithe fez was still worn by some naval reserve units and occasionally by soldiers when off duty.[37]TheEvzones(light infantry) regiments of theGreek Armywore their own distinctive version of the fez from 1837 untilWorld War II.It now survives in the parade uniform of the Presidential Guard in Athens.

From the mid-19th century on, the fez was widely adopted as the headdress of locally recruited "native" soldiers among the variouscolonial troopsof the world. The French North African regiments (Zouaves,Tirailleurs,andSpahis) wore wide, red fezzes with detachable tassels of various colors. It was an off-duty affectation of the Zouaves to wear their fezzes at different angles according to the regiment; French officers of North African units during the 1930s often wore the same fez as their men, with rank insignia attached. (Many volunteer Zouave regiments wore the French North African version of the fez during theAmerican Civil War.) The Libyan battalions and squadrons of the Italian colonial forces wore lower, red fezzes over white skull caps.SomaliandEritreanregiments in Italian service wore high red fezzes with colored tassels that varied according to the unit. Germanaskarisin East Africa wore their fezzes with khaki covers on nearly all occasions.

The BelgianForce Publiquein the Congo wore large and floppy red fezzes similar to those of the French Tirailleurs Senegalais and the Portuguese Companhias Indigenas. The BritishKing's African Rifles(recruited in East Africa) wore high straight-sided fezzes in either red or black, while theWest African Frontier Forcewore a low red version.[38]TheEgyptian Armywore the classic Turkish model until 1950. TheWest India Regimentof the British Army wore a fez as part of its Zouave-style full dress until this unit was disbanded in 1928.[39]The tradition is continued in the full dress of the band of theBarbados Regiment,with a white turban wrapped around the base.

While the fez was a colorful and picturesque item of uniform, it was in several ways an impractical headdress. If worn without a drab cover, it made the head a target for enemy fire, and it provided little protection from the sun. As a result, it was increasingly relegated to parade or off-duty wear by World War II. However, France's West Africantirailleurscontinued to wear a khaki-covered version in the field until about 1943. During the final period of colonial rule in Africa (approximately 1945 to 1962), the fez was seen only as a full-dress item in French, British, Belgian, Spanish, and Portuguese African units, being replaced by wide-brimmed hats orforage capson other occasions. Colonial police forces, however, usually retained the fez as normal duty wear for indigenous personnel.

Bosniak Soldiers of the13th Waffen Mountain Division of the SS Handschar(1943)

Post-independence armies in Africa quickly discarded the fez as a colonial relic. It is, however, still worn by the ceremonialGarde Rougein Senegal as part of theirSpahi-style uniform, and by the ItalianBersaglieriin certain orders of dress. The Bersaglieri adopted the fez as an informal headdress through the influence of the French Zouaves, with whom they served in theCrimean War.The ItalianArditiin the First World War wore a black fez that later became a uniform item of the MussoliniFascistregime.[40]The SpanishRegulares(formerly Moorish) Tabors stationed in the SpanishexclavesofCeutaandMelilla,in North Africa, retain a parade uniform that includes the fez and white cloaks. Filipino units organised in the early days of U.S. rule briefly wore black fezzes, and officers serving with Muslim personnel of the Philippines Constabulary were authorised to wear this headdress from 1909.[41] The Liberian Frontier Force, although not a colonial force, wore fezzes until the 1940s.

Bosnian infantryregiments in the formerAustro-HungarianEmpire had been distinguished by wearing the fez, from their creation in 1885[42]until the end ofWorld War I.[43]They wore distinctive light blue or field grey uniforms,[44]with a buckle showing an arm with a scimitar inside a shield as the symbol of Bosniak ethnicity. The primarilyBosniakMuslim13th Waffen Mountain Division of the SS Handschar,which was recruited from Bosnia, used a red or field grey fez with Waffen SS cap insignia during the latter half ofWorld War II.Their fezzes were decorated on the front withHoheitszeichen(eagle and Swastika) and theSSTotenkopf(skull and crossbones).[45]

Two regiments of theIndian Armyrecruited from Muslim areas wore fezzes underBritish rule(although the turban was the nearly-universal headdress among Hindu and Muslimsepoysandsowars). A green fez was worn by theBahawalpur Lancersof Pakistan as late as the 1960s.[46]

Modern use[edit]

KingMohammed VI of MoroccomeetsJohn KerryandDwight Bushwhile wearing a fez
Mahmood Ali,Indian politician and Deputy Chief Minister ofTelanganastate wearing a fez

In Arab countries[edit]

InArabcountries, tarboush-making is a profession passed down from parents to children through generations. Producing the hat is tricky and requires a high degree of precision, with many stages in its production cycle. Fewer and fewer people have inherited and continue the profession.[4]InIraq,theIraqi Sidarareplaced the Fez after the country's independence from the Ottoman Empire.[47]

In theLevant(Syria, Lebanon, Palestine, and Jordan), the tarboush is still worn, but it is becoming rarer in recent times, and mostly worn byminstrels,or people who work in the tourist industry in historical places.[4]It is still regarded as traditional Syrian headwear.[3]

However in Morocco the tarboush is still worn as part of everyday attire.[4]

In South Asia[edit]

Zafar Ali Khan,a Pakistani writer, poet, translator and a journalist who played an important role in thePakistan MovementagainstBritish rule,used to wear fez.

InHyderabad,the fez is known as theRumi Topi,which means "Roman Cap" (by virtue of theOttoman Empirebeing seen as thesuccessor stateof theEastern Roman Empire). The fez was popularised by Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan ofprincely Hyderabadafter he visited Rome.[48]As per Himayat Ali Mirza, the great-grandson of the Nizam,Mir Osman Ali Khannever wore expensive clothes but used to wear Rumi Topi to camouflage his short physical stature — he was only five feet tall[48]— and advised his sonMoazzam Jahto also wear the Rumi Topi.[49]

The fez was also a symbol of the support for theOttoman Caliphateagainst theBritish Indian Empireduring theKhilafat Movement.Later, it became associated with some leaders of theMuslim League,the political party that eventually created the country ofPakistan.The veteran Pakistani politicianNawabzada Nasrullah Khanwas one of the few people in Pakistan who wore the fez until his death in 2003.[citation needed]

InSri Lanka,the fez was frequently worn by the local MuslimSri Lankan Moorpopulation. Despite its use declining in popularity, the fez is still used in traditional marriage ceremonies. It continues to be worn by "Qadiriyathun Nabaviyyah"Sufipath followers. Thesongkok,a variation of the fez, is worn by the localSri Lankan Malays.[citation needed]

In Southeast Asia[edit]

The name "songkok"is also used in Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula, while in Java, it is called" kopiah "; this headwear is also known widely in Indonesia as" peci ", although peci is somewhat different. This hat has been commonly worn inMaritime Southeast Asiasince the 19th century, when it was introduced by Muslims fromSouth Asia.[50][51]

In South Africa[edit]

The Turkish-style fez was introduced toCape MalaysinCape Town,South Africa, by SheikhAbu Bakr Effendi,when he moved there from Turkey in 1863 to teach them about their religion. Prior to this, theDutch East India Companyhad compelled Muslims in theCape of Good Hope,mainly brought as slaves from what is nowIndonesia,to hide their religious practice, with death as the punishment for practising their faith in public or for attempting to convert anyone.[52]

Muslim men have continued to wear the fez there,[53][54]where it is also referred to as akofia(also spelt kofija).[55][56]especially at prayer times in mosques, at weddings, and at home as a sign of respect when in the company of elderly people. It is also popular with children atmadrassas(Islamic schools). However, the last traditional fez-maker in Cape Town retired in March 2022.[57]

The "Silver Fez" is a competition of all-male choirs from the Cape Malay community in Cape Town,[58]involving thousands of musicians and a wide variety of tunes. A documentary film,The Silver Fez,was made about the competition and released in 2009.[59][60]

Use by fraternal orders[edit]

Los Angeles'ShrinersArab Patrol in costume in the midst dance with people looking on, circa 1925

Manyfraternal ordersare known for wearing fezzes.[61]

In popular culture[edit]

British comedianTommy Cooperadopted the fez as part of his comic act while serving in Egypt during theSecond World War.The hat went on to become Cooper's hallmark, and an icon of 20th century comedy.[63]

Fans of EnglishrugbyteamSaracensoften wear fezzes to matches, and the club itself describes the fez as "one of the most recognisable club symbols".[64]

In the British science fiction seriesDoctor Who,theEleventh Doctor(played byMatt Smith) often wore a fez.[citation needed]

The pop groupMadnesshave often worn fezzes, as seen in themusic videoto their 1979 songNight Boat to Cairo.[citation needed]

See also[edit]

Footnotes[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^Meninski, Franciszek à Mesgnien(1680), "فس",inThesaurus linguarum orientalium, Turcicae, Arabicae, Persicae, praecipuas earum opes à Turcis peculiariter usurpatas continens, nimirum Lexicon Turkico-Arabico-Persicum,Vienna, column 3519
  2. ^Hans Wehr,Dictionary of Modern Written Arabic,4th ed., page 649.
  3. ^ab"The Truth Behind the Tarboush".World Youth Alliance.16 December 2017.Retrieved22 February2023.
  4. ^abcdeAlallawi, Bashar (29 August 2021)."The fez throughout history".edSeed.Retrieved22 February2023.
  5. ^Balteiro, Isabel."Foreign words in the English of textiles."(2010).
  6. ^abPennacchietti, Fabrizio A."Sull'etimologia del termine tarbusc" fez "."
  7. ^"History of the Fez | Iconic Hats | Village Hats".
  8. ^abAndrea B. Rugh (1986).Reveal and Conceal: Dress in Contemporary Egypt.Syracuse University Press. p. 13.ISBN978-0-8156-2368-7.
  9. ^abR. Turner Wilcox (2013).The Mode in Hats and Headdress: A Historical Survey with 198 Plates.Courier Corporation. p. 33.ISBN978-0-486-31830-1.
  10. ^abcHilda Amphlett (2012).Hats: A History of Fashion in Headwear.Courier Corporation. p. 12.ISBN978-0486136585.FEZ. (From Fez in Morocco). Of Turkish origin.
  11. ^abcChico, Beverly (2013).Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia: A Cultural Encyclopedia.ABC-CLIO. pp. 175–176.ISBN978-1-61069-063-8.
  12. ^abcLynch, Annette; Strauss, Mitchell D., eds. (2014).Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia.Rowman & Littlefield. p. 121.ISBN978-0-7591-2150-8.
  13. ^Jirousek, Charlotte A. (2019).Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange.Indiana University Press. p. 159.ISBN978-0-253-04219-4.
  14. ^EKREM BUĞRA EKINCI (2016),Fez: A time-honored Ottoman hat from the Mediterranean,Daily Sabah,The fez used to be common headwear in Mediterranean countries and originated from Morocco.
  15. ^"fez | hat | Britannica".britannica.Retrieved21 July2022.
  16. ^Ann LoLordo (1997), "That brimless hat signified style Fez: In such countries as Morocco, Turkey, Syria and Egypt, the tarbush has had a colorful political past, favored by king and commoner and then banned by governments. Only two makers remain in Cairo.",The Baltimore Sun,The origin of the fez is disputed. One historian, Jeremy Seal, says the hat originated in Turkey where the Sultan Mahmoud II sought to replace the cloth turban with a modern headpiece. The fez bore no brim to enable good Muslims to press their heads to the ground in prayer, according to Seal's "A Fez of the Heart," a history of the hat. Others say the hat got its name from the city in Morocco from which the red-berry dye originates.
  17. ^"Fez Journal; Last Refuge of the Tall Tasseled Ottoman Hat".The New York Times.22 March 1995.Retrieved8 March2019.
  18. ^Ruth Turner Wilcox (2013).The Mode in Hats and Headdress: A Historical Survey with 198 Plates.Courier Corporation. p. 33.ISBN978-0486318301.The Turkish fez
  19. ^Amphlett, Hilda (2003).Hats: a history of fashion in headwear.Mineola,New York:Courier Dover.
  20. ^Kaya, Ibrahim (2004).Social theory and later modernities: the Turkish experience.Liverpool, England: Liverpool University Press. p. 119.
  21. ^Kinross, Lord (1979).The Ottoman Centuries.Perennial. p.466.ISBN978-0-688-08093-8.
  22. ^Postcolonial Approaches to the European Middle Ages: Translating Cultures.Cambridge University Press, 2005.
  23. ^Dunham, Dilmeran Akgöze.The Hat as Symbol of Westernization in Turkey.Cornell University, June, 1985. p.22.
  24. ^abPhilip Mansel (10 November 2011).Constantinople: City of the World's Desire, 1453-1924.John Murray Press. p. 251.ISBN978-1-84854-647-9.
  25. ^abJirousek, Charlotte (2005). "Islamic Clothing".Encyclopedia of Islam.New York: Macmillan.
  26. ^Quataert, D. (1997).Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720-1829.International Journal of Middle East Studies, 29(3), page 412
  27. ^Kahlenberg, Caroline R. (2019)."The Tarbush Transformation: Oriental Jewish Men and the Significance of Headgear in Ottoman and British Mandate Palestine".Journal of Social History.52(4): 1212–1249.doi:10.1093/jsh/shx164.
  28. ^Quataert, Donald (August 1997). "Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720–1829".International Journal of Middle East Studies.29(3): 403–25.doi:10.1017/s0020743800064837.JSTOR164587.S2CID54626714.
  29. ^abDeringil, Selim (January 1993). "The Invention of Tradition as Public Image in the Late Ottoman Empire, 1808 to 1908".Comparative Studies in Society and History.35(1): 9.doi:10.1017/S0010417500018247.S2CID145056061.
  30. ^abcMark Juergensmeyer; Wade Clark Roof (2012).Encyclopedia of Global Religion.SAGE. p. 402.ISBN978-0-7619-2729-7.
  31. ^"Jewish Community in Ottoman Empire".Daily Sabah.13 October 2017.
  32. ^Bywater, Maria (30 July 2014)."The Fabric of Jewish History: Ottoman Jews".Sew Jewish.
  33. ^Archived atGhostarchiveand theWayback Machine:"April 1897 - Jaffa Gate in Jerusalem (speed corrected w/ added sound)".YouTube.6 October 2018.
  34. ^A. Maxwell (2014).Patriots Against Fashion: Clothing and Nationalism in Europe's Age of Revolutions.Springer.ISBN978-1-137-27714-5.
  35. ^Philipp O. Amour (2018). "Yusif Sayigh: Personal Account of the Palestinian National Movement".Journal of Holy Land and Palestine Studies.17(1): 143.doi:10.3366/hlps.2018.0184.
  36. ^Knotel, Richard (January 1980).Uniforms of the World. A Compendium of Army, Navy and Air Force Uniforms 1700-1937.pp. 430–433.ISBN0-684-16304-7.
  37. ^Nicolle, David (28 March 1994).The Ottoman Army 1914-18.pp. 44 & 47.ISBN1-85532-412-1.
  38. ^Rinaldo D'Ami, pages 53 & 59 "World Uniforms in Colour", Volume 2, Casa Editrice AMZ Milqn 1966 SBN 85059 X.
  39. ^Carman, W.Y.A Dictionary of Military Uniform.p. 56.ISBN0-684-15130-8.
  40. ^Elioe Vittorio, tavola XLVI "Atlante dell Uniformi: military italians dal 1934 ad oggi", Ermanno Albertelli 1984.
  41. ^Elting, Col John R. (1988).Military Uniforms in America. The Modern Era from 1868.p. 40.ISBN0-89141-292-1.
  42. ^Neumayer, Christoph.The Emperor's Bosniaks.p. 50.ISBN978-3-902526-17-5.
  43. ^Neumayer, Christoph.The Emperor's Bosniaks.p. 230.ISBN978-3-902526-17-5.
  44. ^Neumayer, Christoh (2008).The Emperor's Bosniaks.p. 199.ISBN978-3-902526-17-5.
  45. ^George H. Stein (1984).The Waffen SS: Hitler's Elite Guard at War, 1939–1945.Cornell University Press. p. 182.ISBN0-8014-9275-0.
  46. ^Rinaldo D'Ami,World Uniforms in Colour,Volume 2, Casa Editrice AMZ Milqn, 1966SBN85059 040 X.p. 72.
  47. ^بابان, صلاح حسن."أدخلها الملك فيصل الأول وتميز بها البغداديون.. ماذا تعرف عن السدارة العراقية؟".aljazeera.net(in Arabic).Retrieved15 September2023.
  48. ^abMoulika KV (28 January 2018)."Nizam's Rumi topi now makes style statement | Hyderabad News - Times of India".The Times of India.Retrieved23 January2023.
  49. ^Syed Akbar (1 November 2021)."Hyderabad: Rumi topi defies time, still popular | Hyderabad News - Times of India".The Times of India.Retrieved6 March2022.
  50. ^Rozan Yunos (23 September 2007)."The origin of the songkok or 'kopiah'".The Brunei Times. Archived fromthe originalon 5 December 2008.Retrieved13 April2016.
  51. ^Abdullah Mubarok (21 February 2016)."PDIP: Kopiah Bagian Dari identitas Nasional"(in Indonesian). Inilah. Archived fromthe originalon 13 April 2016.Retrieved13 April2016.
  52. ^Argun, Selim (2000)."Life and Contribution of Osmanli Scholar, Abu bakr Effendi, towards Islamic thought and Culture in South Africa"(PDF).pp. 7–8. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 31 August 2011.
  53. ^Green, L.G. (1951).Grow Lovely, Growing Old: The Story of Cape Town's Three Centuries-the Streets, the Houses, the Characters, the Legends, Traditions and Folklore,the Laughter and Tears.H. Timmins.Retrieved20 February2023.
  54. ^"Malay Pilgrims from Cape Town on their way to Mecca"(photo).Royal Collection Trust.Retrieved20 February2023.
  55. ^"Kofia".A Dictionary of South African English.20 February 2023.Retrieved20 February2023.1951 L.G. Green,Grow Lovely,189: Cape Malays call the fez a kofija.
  56. ^"Muslim man wins fez court battle".IOL.24 February 2006.Retrieved20 February2023.
  57. ^Landsberg, Ian (14 March 2022)."Last of his kind: Traditional fez maker in Kensington hangs up his hat".IOL.Retrieved20 February2023.
  58. ^De Waal, Shaun (16 September 2009)."The Song remains the same".The Mail & Guardian.Retrieved14 February2023.
  59. ^"The Silver Fez"(text and video).Al Jazeera.Witness.15 June 2009.Retrieved23 March2012.
  60. ^7ª Edición(PDF)(in French, Spanish, and English).Festival de Cine Africano de Tarifa / Tarifa African Film Festival(FCAT). May 2010. pp. 86–87.
  61. ^"The Fez Museum - Dedicated to Fraternal Fez Hats".fezmuseum.
  62. ^"Shriners International: History: The Fez".Shriners International.Archived fromthe originalon 15 May 2015.Retrieved23 April2015.
  63. ^Logan, Brian (5 December 2016)."Just like hat! Why Tommy Cooper's fez was much more than a prop".The Guardian.Retrieved6 November2020.
  64. ^"The Fez Club".Saracens.Retrieved17 July2024.

Further reading[edit]

  • Patricia Baker, "The Fez in Turkey: A Symbol of Modernization?".Costume20 (1986): 72–85
  • Donald Quataert, "Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720–1829".International Journal of Middle East Studies29, no. 3 (1997): 403–425
  • Wilson Chacko Jacob, "Working Out Egypt: Masculinity and Subject Formation Between Colonial Modernity and Nationalism, 1870–1940" (PhD thesis,New York University,2005), chapter 6 (326–84).

External links[edit]

  • Media related toFezzesat Wikimedia Commons
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