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Tulkarm

Coordinates:32°18′45″N35°1′36″E/ 32.31250°N 35.02667°E/32.31250; 35.02667
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Tulkarm
Arabic transcription(s)
Arabicطولكرم
LatinTulkarem (official)
Tul Karem (unofficial)
Hebrew transcription(s)
Hebrewטולכרם
Tulkarm, 2020
Tulkarm, 2020
Official logo of Tulkarm
Tulkarm is located in State of Palestine
Tulkarm
Tulkarm
Location of Tulkarm withinPalestine
Coordinates:32°18′45″N35°1′36″E/ 32.31250°N 35.02667°E/32.31250; 35.02667
Palestine grid152/190
StateState of Palestine
GovernorateTulkarm
FoundedLate 12th century
Government
• TypeCity
• Head of MunicipalityRiyad Awad (17 April 2022–)
Area
• Total28,793dunams(28.8 km2or 11.1 sq mi)
Population
(2017)[1]
• Total64,532
• Density2,200/km2(5,800/sq mi)
Name meaningThe long (place) of the vineyard.[2]
Websitetulkarm.org
Al-Adawiah High School
Paris Street, Tulkarm, 2007.

TulkarmorTulkarem(Arabic:طولكرم,Ṭūlkarm) is aPalestiniancity in theWest Bank,the capital of theTulkarm Governorateof theState of Palestine.TheIsraelicity ofNetanyais to the west, and thePalestiniancities ofNablusandJeninto the east. According to thePalestinian Central Bureau of Statistics,in 2017 Tulkarm had a population of 64,532.[1]Tulkarm is under the administration of thePalestinian National Authority.

Etymology

TheCanaanite name,which survived through to Roman times, wasBirat Sorqa('well of the chosen vine'),[3]TheArabicname translates as "length of vinyard"[4]but is a distortion of theAramaicnameTur Karma[5]( "mount of the vineyard" ) which was used for Tulkarm by theCrusadersand by the mediaevalSamaritaninhabitants.[2][6]

History

It has been suggested that Tulkarm isBirat Soreqah,a place mentioned in theJerusalem Talmud.It has also been identified withTur Kerem.[7]

Ayyubid and Mamluk periods

During theAyyubidera, after the Muslim reconquest of Palestine under SultanSaladinin 1187, the first families to settle in Tulkarm were from theKurdishclan of Zaydan.[8]A military group, the Zaydan were dispatched to the Wadi al-Sha'ir area, which includes Tulkarm, by Saladin to buttress the defense of the western approaches of Muslim-held Palestine from the Crusaders who dominated the coastal area.[8]

The Zaydan would come to politically dominate Tulkarm and the vicinity until the early 17th century. Around 1230, during the late Ayyubid period, a group ofArabsfrom southern Palestine immigrated to Tulkarm. They had originally migrated to Palestine fromArabiamany generations prior and had become semi-nomadic farmers and grazers.[8]Among the Arab families were the Fuqaha clan, who were consideredashraf(related to theIslamicprophetMuhammad) and served as the"ulama"(religious scholars) of the village.[8]

During the Ayyubid, and later theMamlukera (1260–1517), the majority of Tulkarm's lands were made part of awaqf( "religious trust" ) to support theal-Farisiyya Madrasa,anIslamicreligious school inJerusalem,located north of theMasjid Al-Aqsacompound. Two-thirds of the village's farmlands were confirmed as part of this trust in 1354 by the deputy-governor of Damascus, Faris al-Din al-Baki. During Mamluk rule another wave of Arab immigrants arrived in Tulkarm fromNorth Africaand nearbyNablus.They largely engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry, supplying hides to leather merchants in the coastal villages, retaken from the Crusaders in the second half of the 13th century.[8]

Ottoman era

Tulkarm was incorporated into theOttoman Empirein 1517. Afterward, SultanSuleiman the Magnificent(r. 1520–66) transferred Tulkarm'swaqfto the al-Jawhariyya Madrasa (Commons), located in theMuslim Quarter,northwest of the al-Aqsa Mosque. Under this arrangement, Tulkarm's inhabitants paid a third of their harvest as a tax towards thewaqf,calledqasm.At the time of thewaqf's reassignment, the population of the village was estimated at 522 (95 households) and theqasmconsisted of eightcaratsof wheat and three carats of barley. The town's elite families administered the trust, which enabled them to reach higher social and economic status. The population increased through intermarriage with families fleeing violentfeudsbetween the various clans of Jabal Nablus. By 1548, the population had grown significantly to 189 households or roughly 1,040 persons.[8]

In 1596 Tulkarm appeared in Ottoman tax registers as being in thenahiya(subdistrict) ofQaqun,which was a part of thesanjak(district) ofNablus.The largest village in thenahiya,[8]Tulkarm had a population of 176 Muslim households (roughly 968 persons) and paid taxes on wheat, barley, summer crops, olives, goats, beehives and a press for olives or grapes.[9]During this early period of Ottoman rule, there were five neighborhoods (pl.harat) centered around the Shaykh Ali al-Jazri al-Mughrabi Mosque, today referred to simply as the "Old Mosque". The population was overwhelminglySunni Muslim,and most residents werefellahin(peasants who worked the land.) The elite families during that time were the Zaydan and theLajjun-basedTarabay,the latter belonging to theBani Harithtribe. Because of the decentralized nature of the Ottoman state, these families and their successors in later centuries ruled the area with a high degree of autonomy. The Zaydan had particular authority over Tulkarm, being appointed as themutassalim(tax collectors or enforcers) on behalf of the central authorities.[8]

In the mid-17th-century most members of the Zaydan family, with the exception of the children and the elderly, were killed in a massacre by Tulkarm's inhabitants duringFriday prayers.[citation needed]This was in reaction to the Zaydan having forced Tulkarm's residents to harvest and process the village's grains for taxation purposes. Consequently, political power in Tulkarm passed to the Badran clan, while the Fuqaha family took control of administering the"waqf"lands, firmly placing them as the village's religious leaders. The Fuqaha had derived much of their authority from their classification as"ashraf"and their association with the SufiRifa'iyyazawiyaof the village. The western neighborhood was mostly emptied of Zaydan members and would serve as the main area of settlement for newcomers.[8]

Tulkarm appears on sheet 45 ofJacotin'smap drawn up duringNapoleon'sinvasion in 1799,namedToun Karin.[10][11]

Tulkarm Municipality building

Following the adoption of the Ottoman Land Code in 1858, themusha(collective landownership) system was gradually abrogated and residents were required to register their property with the central authorities. Thefellahinwere wary of registering their names for fear of military conscription by the Ottoman state and instead entrusted various elite clans with the role of landlords, who were in effect absentee owners. This altered the area's social structure, with the Samara, al-Hajj Ibrahim and Hanun clans legally obtaining vast swathes of Tulkarm's lands. Leadership of the town's two main religious establishments were generally supplied by theKur-basedJayyusi clanand the al-Barqawi clan ofShufa.[8]The Barqawi clan controlled the area around the town in the 19th century.[12]

The 1860s French explorerVictor Guérinvisited Tulkarm, which he described as being of "considerable" size, with about 1,000 inhabitants.[13]During this time, the Ottoman authorities granted the village an agricultural plot of land called Ghabat Tulkarm in the former confines of the Forest of Arsur (Ar. Al-Ghaba) in the coastal plain, west of the village.[14][15]

Old City of Tulkarm

In 1882 theSurvey of Western Palestinedescribed Tulkarm as a "long straggling village, on high ground", surrounded by arable land and rock. There were several "good-sized" houses, mainly of stone in the village.[16]

Tulkarm became the administrative center of a new subdistrict (qada') Bani Saʿb-Tulkarm in 1876,[17]later becoming a municipality in 1892.[18]Tulkarm was also appointed a governor, bringing the residents who numbered only a few thousand and who were mostlyfellahin,closer to the central government. This elevated status gave Tulkarm precedence over the nearby villages, which at that time also includedQalqilya.Tulkarm's center shifted from the Old Mosque to an empty space in the northwest as the town expanded northward with the construction government buildings, a post office, a school and a hospital in that area.[19]These new services further cemented Tulkarm's role as a focal point for the inhabitants of the area.

Around the turn of the 20th century, Tulkarm and Dhinnaba was one of the villages in which the Hannun family owned extensive estates. The Hannuns fostered close ties with the clans inhabiting the village.[20]

In 1908, the Ottomans turned Tulkarm into a major rail junction on theHejaz Railwayline running up fromEgyptand southern Palestine toHaifaandAcrein the northwest,Jerusalem,NablusandRamallahto the south,Lebanonto the north, andSyriaandTransjordanto the east. TheOttoman Armyused Tulkarm as one of their principal bases during theSinai and Palestine campaigninWorld War I,and was bombed by British planes carried byHMS Anne.In 1918, it was captured byBritish forces.[21]

British Mandate era

The region of Tulkarm in the 1940s.

TheBritish Mandatory administration(192–1947) inPalestinedesignated Tulkarm as the center of theTulkarm Subdistrict.[22]

In 1920, a road was constructed to connect the town withNetanyaon the coast. In order to cope with a significant increase in population and unorganized infrastructural development since the beginning of the 20th century – a civil planning scheme was designed for Tulkarm and its satellite villages ofDhinnaba,ShuweikaandIrtahin 1945. At the time Tulkarm was divided into four main sections, with the bulk of commercial activity concentrated along the north–south and east–west roads. Meanwhile,urban sprawlcontinued to expand past the northern fringes of the town, which had previously been characterized by green spaces.[23]

Tulkarm and its vicinity played major role as a haven and area for Palestinian Arab rebel activity during the1936–1939 Arab revoltagainst British rule in Palestine. General Commander of the RevoltAbd al-Rahim al-Hajj Muhammadhailed from Dhinnaba, today a part of Tulkarm municipality, and led many operations in the town's vicinity.[24]

In the1945 statisticsthe population of Tulkarm consisted of 8,090; of whom 7,790 were Muslims, 280 Christian and 20 "other",[25]with a land area of 1,672dunams(urban) and 32,610 dunams (rural), according to an official land and population survey.[26]Of this, 2,399 dunams were designated for citrus and bananas, 276 plantations and irrigable land, 28,256 forcereals,[27]while 1,492 dunams were built-up areas.[28]

Jordanian rule

During the1948 Arab–Israeli War,Tulkarm was under the control of theIraqi Armyand laterannexedas part of theJordanian-heldWest Bank.The1949 Armistice Agreementsbetween Israel and Jordan left roughly 30,000 dunams of Tulkarm's 32,610 dunams of land, mostly agricultural, in Israeli territory. The loss of these lands caused an exodus of many Tulkarm's residents toTransjordanand abroad for employment,[22]while Tulkarm also saw an influx ofPalestinian refugees.[29]This period was also marked by general isolation for Tulkarm, which straddled the armistice line and was caught between Israeli military positions to the west and Jordanian military positions inside the town itself. It was completely cut off from the nearby Arab towns controlled by Israel and had less significant relations with the villages to its east. Its principal economic and social connection was with Nablus.[30]

In 1950, theTulkarm Campwas established byUNRWAin the city, comprising an area of 0.18 square kilometres (0.07 sq mi). Most of the refugees who resided in the camp came fromJaffa,CaesareaandHaifa.Today it is the second largestPalestinian refugee campin theWest Bank.[31]A period of significant municipal expansion began in Tulkarm after a new civil development scheme was authorized in 1961. As part of this plan, in 1963, the hamlet of Jarrad in the southeast and other lands in the northeast (total of 1.8 square km) were annexed to the city, while the eastern village ofDhinnabawas incorporated into the municipality in 1964, adding another 0.75 square kilometres (0.29 sq mi) of territory. The village ofShuweikato the north and the smaller village ofIrtahto the south were annexed in 1967.[29]

Contemporary period

2018United Nationsmap of the area, showing theIsraeli occupationarrangements.

Since theSix-Day Warin 1967 Tulkarm has been underIsraeli occupation.[22]Amilitary governmentgoverned Tulkarm until transfer in 1982 to theIsraeli Civil Administration.

During the early months of theFirst Intifada,16 May 1989, Muhammad As'ad Fokhah, 50 years old, from Shuweika, died inMegiddo Prisonafter a three-day hunger strike.Yitzhak Rabinreported to a Member ofKnessetthat Fokhah died of aheart attackcaused bydehydrationand that themilitaryinvestigation found that prison staff had acted in accordance with orders.[32]

In the wake of the 1993Oslo Accordsbetween Israel and the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO), control of Tulkarm was transferred to thePalestinian National Authority(PNA) on 10 December 1995, becoming the third Palestinian city from which Israeli forces withdrew.[22]During the early years of theSecond Intifada,Israel temporarily reoccupied Tulkarm. Israeli military administration over Tulkarm ended in 2005, when control of the city was handed back to the PNA.[33]Upon assuming control of the city, the PNA instituted new weapons restrictions limiting militants to a single registered weapon that may not be loaded or carried in public.[34]

On 19 October 2023, the IDFentered the city.[35]

Geography

The city is situated on the western edge of northern West Bank, about 15 kilometers (9.3 mi) west ofNablusfurther southwest ofJeninand 15 kilometers (9.3 mi) east of the Israeli coastal city ofNetanya.It is bordered by the1948 ceasefire line,with Israel'sCentralandHaifa Districtsto the west, and Palestine'sQalqilyaandRamallah and al-Bireh Governoratesto the south. Its central location between a plain and a mountain has made it commercially and strategically significant and has had a great impact on its growth. In the past, Tulkarm was a caravan station and a trading center for products from the city's surrounding villages and farms, as well as a point from which armies crossed toEgyptand theLevant (al-Sham).[citation needed]

Tulkarm is at the crossroads of three historically important arteries: A road which runs north from theLatrunarea along the edge of the coastal plain toMount Carmel,Mount Tabor,Mount Gilboa,Nazarethand theGalileeand theGolan Heights,a road which winds northward along the outer tier of hills from theAjalonvalley to theJezreel Valley,and a road that rises from theMediterranean Seaat modern-day Netanya east to Nablus. In the past it was a junction of the coastal railroad from north ofHaifatoCairoand a branch of the narrow gaugeHejaz railwaytoDamascus.[citation needed]

Demographics

Year Type Population
1548 Census 1,040[8]
1596 Census 968[8]
1860s Estimate 1,000[13]
1922 Census 3,350[36]
1931 Census 4,540[37]
1945 Census 8,090[25][38]
1961 Census 11,401[39]
1967 Census 20,002[40]
1997 Census 39,805 (with Camp)[41]
2007 Census 61,941[42]
2017 Census 64,532[1]

According to the1922 census of Palestineconducted by theBritish Mandateauthorities, Tulkarm had a population of 3,350 (3,109 Muslims, 208 Christians, 23 Jews, eightSamaritans,oneBaha'i,and oneDruze).[36]At the time of the1931 census,Tulkarm had a population of 4,827 (4,540 Muslims, 255 Christians, 18 Jews, six Samaritans, and one Druze) with 541 in nearby suburbs (516 Muslims, 15 Jews, and 10 Christians).[37]

The village statistics of 1938 list Tulkarm's population as 5,700 with 629 in nearby suburbs (including 17 Jews).[43]Thevillage statistics of 1945list the population as 8,090 (7,790 Muslims, 280 Christians, and 20 "other" ).[44]

The populations of Tulkarm, Dhinnaba, Shuweika and Irtah steadily increased by an average of 2% annually between 1931 and 1961, with a drastic increase after the 1948 War as the area experienced an influx of Palestinian refugees. The Jews presumably left/fled during the war. Following the 1967 War, the population saw a temporary decrease as some residents fled to Jordan. In the 1967 census by theIsrael Central Bureau of Statisticsthe population of Tulkarm city was recorded as 10,255, Tulkarm Camp as 5,020, Dhinnaba as 1,342, Irtah as 925, Shuweika as 2,332 and Khirbet Jarrad as 128, a total of 20,002.[40]Most of the inhabitants were Muslims, although there was a community of 103Christiansaccording to the census.[45]

In the first census by thePalestinian Central Bureau of Statistics(PCBS) in 1997, Tulkarm had a population of 33,921 and theTulkarm Refugee Camphad a population of 5,884.Palestinian refugeesmade up 31.4% of the city's residents and 94% of the camp's inhabitants.[41]The sex ratio for the city was 50.7% male and 49.3% female. Over half (52.2%) of the city's population was under the age of 20, 44.5% were between the ages of 20 and 64 and 4.1% were over the age of 64.[46]In the 2007 PCBS census Tulkarm's population grew to 51,300 while the camp's increased to 10,641. The sex ratio for the city was 50.3% male and 49.7% female.[42]

Church of Saint George, Tulkarm.

Today the population is almost entirely Muslim. Prior to Israel's occupation of the city in 1967, there were an estimated 1,000 Christians living in Tulkarm, but roughly half of the community emigrated in the aftermath of the war, while most of the remaining Christians gradually emigrated afterward.[47]There are two Christian families who continue to live in Tulkarm,[47]who are part of the same extended family.[48]There is aGreek Orthodox churchin the city dedicated toSt. George,[47]built in the early 19th century.[48][49]The church is active and opens for visitors.[47]

Climate

The climate of Tulkarm isMediterraneanandsubtropicalas the area surrounding it, with rainfall limited to the winter. The average temperature in the winter ranges from 8 to 16 °C (46 to 61 °F), while the average temperature in the summer ranges from 17 to 30 °C (63 to 86 °F). Tulkarm is distinguished by the moderating effect thesea breezehas on its climate because of its location in the mountains. The average temperature does not exceed 27 °C (81 °F) in August, while February's average temperature does not fall below 13.5 °C (56 °F). Humidity is moderate in summer, about 40-70%, though it rises in winter to between 70 and 85%. Tulkarm receives in excess of 550 millimeters (22 in) of rain yearly, which is dispersed and intermittent, characteristic of theMediterranean Basin.

Climate data for Tulkarm
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 17.0
(62.6)
17.5
(63.5)
19.6
(67.3)
23.9
(75.0)
24.2
(75.6)
28.3
(82.9)
29.0
(84.2)
30.0
(86.0)
27.9
(82.2)
26.0
(78.8)
23.0
(73.4)
19.2
(66.6)
22.76
(72.97)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 8.9
(48.0)
8.7
(47.7)
10.5
(50.9)
13.6
(56.5)
17.2
(63.0)
20.6
(69.1)
23.0
(73.4)
23.6
(74.5)
20.7
(69.3)
18.5
(65.3)
14.1
(57.4)
10.9
(51.6)
15.54
(59.97)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 124.9
(4.92)
92.2
(3.63)
52.8
(2.08)
23.6
(0.93)
2.7
(0.11)
2.8
(0.11)
2.2
(0.09)
0.7
(0.03)
1.2
(0.05)
28.0
(1.10)
77.4
(3.05)
135.5
(5.33)
538.3
(21.19)
Average precipitation days 13.9 11.7 8.6 3.6 1.4 3.2 2.0 0.7 0.8 3.9 8.0 11.8 63.7
Source: Israel Meteorological Service[50]

The rainy season starts in October and continues through May. Between December and February, almost 70% of annual rainfall occurs, while 20% of annual rainfall occurs in October and November. Rain in June and September is rare and comes to negligible amounts. July and August have no rain at all, except for one rainfall of 1.5 millimeters (0.059 in) on July 10, 1995, in Tulkarm city (Tulkarm Agricultural Department). The mean annual rainfall in the city of Tulkarm is 642 millimeters (25.3 in) for the period from 1952 to 1995 (Tulkarm Agricultural Department).

Economy

Market in Tulkarm

Prior to the 1948 War, Tulkarm had a major agricultural sector, with grain, olives and fruits, especially watermelons, being the major crops cultivated by in the town's lands.[22]


Education

An-Najah National University(Tulkarm branch)

Palestinian Technical University - Kadooriewhich is the sole governmental university in Palestine, was established as an agricultural college in Tulkarem during theBritish Mandateby an endowment from theIraqi-born JewishphilanthropistJ.S. Kadooriein 1930 and then became a university in 2007. Other institutions of higher learning includeAl-Quds Open Universityand two campuses ofAn-Najah National University.

There are seven high schools in Tulkarm, three for girls (al-Adawiah,[51]Jamal Abd al-Nasser,[51]and Al-Khawaja) and three for boys (al-Fadilia,[52]Ihsan Samara, and Adnan Sefareni) and a vocational school for both genders.

Palestine Technical University – Kadoorie
Fadhiliya School

On September 24, 2016, the PA named a school in Tulkarem afterSalah Khalaf.Tulkarem governor Issam Abu Bakr said that the school was named after “martyr Salah Khalaf in order to commemorate the memory of this great national fighter”.[53][54]






Culture

Thetraditional costumesof women from Tulkarm were plain, dark-colored gowns with or without embroidery, as most rural women were from the north of Palestine.[55]Today, embroidery is the main source of income for the women of the city.[21]The most popular embroidered images are maps of historic Palestine. The Palestinian dishmusakhanis popular in the city. Tulkarm shares many of its cultural features with neighboringHaifa,Jenin,Nablus,Qalqilia,andJaffa.[21]

A Tulkarm amusement park called Mega Land attracts tens of thousands of visitors on Muslim holidays.[56]

Sports

Tulkarm has 2 semi-professional soccer teams;Thaqafi TulkarmandMarkez Shabab Tulkarm.Both are in the Palestinian League Division One.

Notable people

See also

References

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  55. ^Karmi, 2004, p. 22.
  56. ^The economic impact of Israeli-Arab visitors to the West BankArchived5 May 2016 at theWayback Machine

Bibliography