Verdun

For the 1916 battle, seeBattle of Verdun.For other uses, seeVerdun (disambiguation).

Verdun
Subprefectureandcommune
Verdun and the Meuse river
Coat of arms
Location of Verdun
Verdun Verdun
Coordinates:49°09′43″N5°23′15″E
Country	France
Region	Grand Est
Department	Meuse
Arrondissement	Verdun
Canton	Verdun-1and2
Intercommunality	CA Grand Verdun
Government
• Mayor(2020–2026)	Samuel Hazard
Area 1	31.03 km2(11.98 sq mi)
Population (2021)	16,689
• Density	540/km2(1,400/sq mi)
Time zone	UTC+01:00(CET)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+02:00(CEST)
INSEE/Postal code	55545/55100
Elevation	194–330 m (636–1,083 ft)
1French Land Register data, which excludes lakes, ponds, glaciers > 1 km2(0.386 sq mi or 247 acres) and river estuaries.

Verdun(/vɜːrˈdʌn/vur-DUN,UKalso/ˈvɛərdʌn/VAIR-dun,USalso/vɛərˈdʌn/vair-DUN,French:[vɛʁdœ̃];official name before 1970:Verdun-sur-Meuse) is a city in theMeusedepartmentinGrand Est,northeasternFrance.It is anarrondissementof the department.

Verdun is the biggest city in Meuse, although the capital of the department isBar-le-Duc,which is slightly smaller than Verdun. It is well known for givingits name to the longest battle in modern historyin theFirst World War.

Geography

Verdun is situated on both banks of the riverMeuse,in the northern part of the Meuse department. It is connected by rail toJarny.TheA4 autorouteParis–Metz–Strasbourg passes south of the town.

History

Verdun (Verodunum,alatinisationof aplace namemeaning "strongfort"inGaulish) was founded by theGauls.It has been the seat of the bishop ofVerdunsince the4th century,with interruptions.In 486, following the decisiveFrankishvictory at theBattle of Soissons,the city (amongst several other nearby cities) refused to yield to the Franks and was thus besieged by KingClovis I.The 843Treaty of VerdundividedCharlemagne's empire among his three surviving grandsons.

Around this time a city called Verdun was the centre of the thriving European trade in young boys, who were sold to the IslamicemiratesofIberia,where they were enslaved aseunuchs.The Italian ambassadorLiutprand of Cremona,as one example in the 10th century, presented a gift of four eunuchs to EmperorConstantine VII.The identity of the "Verdun" mentioned in sources is disputed because there are many cities called Verdun in Europe (such asVerdun-sur-GaronneinOccitaniaandVerdun-sur-le-Doubs).While many still identify it as Verdun on the Meuse, some argue thatVerdun-sur-le-Doubsis a more feasible identification. It is also possible that Liutprand was referring toVerona.

Since 1200 Verdun has been famous for itsDragéesor sugared almonds; they were distributed at thebaptismof French princes.

Verdun was part of the middle kingdom ofLotharingiaand in 1374 it became afree imperial cityof theHoly Roman Empire.The Bishopric of Verdun formed together with Tull (Toul) andMetztheThree Bishoprics,which were annexed by France in 1552 (recognized in 1648 by thePeace of Westphalia).

From 1624 to 1636 a largebastioned citadelwas constructed on the site of the Abbey of Saint Vanne. In 1670Sébastien Le Prestre de Vaubanvisited Verdun and drew up an ambitious scheme to fortify the whole city. Although much of his plan was carried out in the following decades, some of the elements were not completed until after theNapoleonic Wars.During the Napoleonic War the citadel was used to hold Britishprisoners of war.

In theFranco-Prussian WarVerdun was the last French fortress to surrender in 1870. Shortly afterwards a new system of fortification was begun.This consisted of a mutually supporting ring of 22polygonal fortsup to 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from the city and an inner ring of 6 forts.

Bird's-eye view of Verdun in 1638

Battle of Verdun (1792)

Main article:Battle of Verdun (1792)

Despite the extensive fortifications, in theBattle of Verdun in 1792the fortress was captured by thePrussiansduring theWar of the First Coalition.The battle was fought on 20 August 1792 between French Revolutionary forces and the Prussian army. The Prussian victory opened the path to Paris for the invading armies. However the Prussians were unable to press their success and abandoned Verdun following theBattle of Valmy.

Battle of Verdun (First World War)

Main article:Battle of Verdun

Aerial photograph ofFort Douaumonttowards the end of 1916

Verdun was the site of amajor battle,the longest-lasting of the First World War.One of the costliest battles in military history, Verdun exemplified the policy of awar of attritionpursued by both sides, which led to an enormous loss of life and very long casualty lists.

Following the failure of theSchlieffen Planin 1914 and the solidifying of theWestern Front,Germany remained on the strategic defensive in the west throughout most of 1915.In the winter of 1915–16, German GeneralErich von Falkenhayn,the chief of theGerman General Staff(1914–1916) made plans for a large offensive on the Western Front that ultimately aimed to break the French Army through the application of firepower at a point that the French had to hold for reasons of national prestige.As Falkenhayn recalled it, his so-called "Christmas memorandum" toKaiser Willhelm IIenvisioned a massive but limited attack on a French position 'for the retention of which the French Command would be compelled to throw in every man they have'.Once the French army had bled to death, Britain could be brought down by Germany'ssubmarineblockade and superior military strength. The logic of initiating a battle not to gain territory or a strategic position but simply to create a self-sustaining killing ground—to bleed the French army to death—pointed to the grimness of military vision in 1916.

Recent scholarship by Holger Afflerbach and others, however, has questioned the veracity of the Christmas memo. No copy has ever surfaced and the only account of it appeared in Falkenhayn's post-war memoir.His army commanders at Verdun, including the German Crown Prince, denied any knowledge of an attrition strategy. It is possible that Falkenhayn did not specifically design the battle to bleed the French army but used this supposed motive after the fact in an attempt to justify the Verdun offensive, despite its failure.

Citadel of Verdun during World War I

Verdun was the strongest point in pre-war France, ringed by a string of powerful forts, includingDouaumontandFort Vaux.By 1916, the salient at Verdun jutted into the German lines and lay vulnerable to attack from three sides. The historic city of Verdun had been anoppidumof theGaulsbefore Roman times and later a key asset in wars againstPrussia,and Falkenhayn suspected that the French would throw as many men as necessary into its defence. Ironically, France had substantially weakened Verdun's defences after the outbreak of the war, an oversight that would contribute to the removal ofJoseph Joffrefrom supreme command at the end of 1916. The attack was slated to begin on 12 February, then 16 February, but the snow forced repeated postponements.

The city after the German bombardment, 1916

Falkenhayn massed over 1000 artillery piecesto the north and east of Verdun to precede the infantry advance with intensive artillery bombardment. His attack would hit the French positions on the right bank of theMeuse.Although French intelligence had warned of his plans, these warnings were ignored by the French Command and troop levels in the area remained low. Consequently, Verdun was utterly unprepared for the initial bombardment on the morning of 21 February 1916. German infantry attacks followed that afternoon and met tenacious but ultimately inadequate resistance for the first four days.

On 25 February, the Germans occupied Douaumont. French reinforcements—now under the leadership of GeneralPhilippe Pétain—began to arrive and were instantly thrown into "the furnace" (as the battle was called) to slow the German advance, no matter what the cost. Over the next several days, the stubborn defense managed to slow the German advance with a series of bloody counter-attacks. In March, Falkenhayn decided to target the French positions on the left bank of the Meuse as well, broadening the offensive front twofold. Throughout March and April,Cumières-le-Mort-Hommeand Hill 304 were under continuous heavy bombardment and relentless infantry attacks. Meanwhile, Pétain organised repeated, small-scale counter-attacks to slow the German advance. He also ensured that the sole supply road fromBar-le-Ducinto Verdun remained open. It became known as theVoie Sacrée"Sacred Way" because it continued to carry vital supplies and reinforcements into the Verdun front despite constant artillery fire.

Men of the French 87th Infantry Regiment during the Battle of Verdun, 1916

German gains continued in June, but slowly and only after increasingly heavy losses on their side. On 7 June, following almost a week of bitter resistance,Fort Vauxfell to the Germans after a murderous hand-to-hand fight inside the fort itself. On 23 June, the Germans reached what would become the furthest point of their advance. The line was just in front of Fort Souville, the last stronghold before Verdun itself. Pétain was making plans to evacuate the right bank of the Meuse when the combined Anglo-Frenchoffensive on the Somme Riverwas launched on 1 July, partly to relieve pressure on the French, although thefirst daywas the bloodiest in theBritish Army's history.The Germans could no longer afford to continue their offensive at Verdun when they were needed so desperately on the Somme. At a cost of some 400,000 German casualties and a similar number of French, the attack was finally called off. The estimated death toll on both sides were 143,000 dead Germans and 162,440 French soldiers.Falkenhayn's plan to bleed France to death – if indeed that had been his intention – had failed.

The battle continued, however, from October to the end of the year. French offensives, employing new tactics devised by GeneralRobert Nivelle,regained the forts and territory they had lost earlier. This was the only gleam of hope in an otherwise abysmal landscape.

Overall, the battle lasted 11 months. Falkenhayn was replaced byPaul von Hindenburgas Chief of General Staff. General Nivelle was promoted over the head of General Pétain to replaceGeneralissimoJoseph Joffreas French supreme commander, although he was to hold the post for less than six months.

Population

Historical population

Year Pop. ±% p.a. 1793 9,060 — 1800 9,136 +0.12% 1806 10,276 +1.98% 1821 9,819 −0.30% 1831 9,978 +0.16% 1836 10,577 +1.17% 1841 15,533 +7.99% 1846 13,448 −2.84% 1851 13,941 +0.72% 1856 12,742 −1.78% 1861 12,394 −0.55% 1866 12,941 +0.87% 1872 10,738 −3.06% 1876 15,781 +10.10% 1881 16,053 +0.34% 1886 17,755 +2.04% 1891 18,852 +1.21% 1896 22,151 +3.28%	Year Pop. ±% p.a. 1901 21,360 −0.72% 1906 21,706 +0.32% 1911 21,701 −0.00% 1921 12,788 −5.15% 1926 14,280 +2.23% 1931 16,540 +2.98% 1936 19,460 +3.31% 1946 14,609 −2.83% 1954 18,831 +3.22% 1962 21,982 +1.95% 1968 22,013 +0.02% 1975 23,621 +1.01% 1982 21,516 −1.32% 1990 20,753 −0.45% 1999 19,624 −0.62% 2007 19,147 −0.31% 2012 18,327 −0.87% 2017 17,475 −0.95%
Source: EHESSand INSEE (1968-2017)

Panoramic views

A panoramic view of Verdun in 1917

A panoramic view of Verdun from 2004

Cemetery and memorials

There are many French and German cemeteries throughout the battlefield. The largest is the French National Cemetery andDouaumont Ossuarynear Fort Douaumont. Thirteen thousand crosses adorn the field in front of the ossuary, which holds roughly 130,000 unidentified remains brought in from the battlefield. Every year yields more remains, which are often placed inside the ossuary's vaults.

Among many revered memorials on the battlefield is the "Bayonet Trench", which marks the location where some dozenbayonetslined up in a row were discovered projecting out of the ground after the war; below each rifle was the body of a French soldier. It has been assumed that these belonged to a group of soldiers who had rested their rifles against the parapet of the trench they were occupying when they were killed during a bombardment, and the men were buried where they lay in the trench and the rifles left untouched. However, this is probably not historically accurate: experts agree that the bayonets were probably affixed to the rifles after the attack and installed by survivors to memorialize the spot.

Nearby, the World War I Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery and Memorial is located atRomagne-sous-Montfauconto the northwest of Verdun. It is the final resting place for 14,246 American military dead, most of whom died in theMeuse-Argonne Offensive.The chapel contains a memorial to the 954 American missing whose remains were never recovered or identified.

On 12 September 1916King George Vawarded theMilitary Crossto the City of Verdun, one of only two awards of this British decoration to a municipality during World War I, the other beingYpres.On 5 October 1917,Bernardino Machado,President of the Portuguese Republic,awarded the City of Verdun theOrder of the Tower and Sword,1st Class (Grand Cross) for its "tenacious resistance, steadfastness in battle, and heroism of its garrison, having filled a brilliant position in the present war and gloriously proving the worth of a nation's valour and patriotism"; the investiture ceremony took place on 10 October 1917, during President Machado's visit to theWestern Front.

• 
  Charlemagneat the summit ofVerdun's Victory Monument
• 
  A portion of the battlefield today
• 
  World War I memorial atDouaumont

Landmarks

• TheChâtel Gateis the only remaining part of the medieval city walls. It leads ontoLa Roche Square.
• La Citadellewas built in the 17th century. It is still in military hands but the underlying tunnels can be visited.
• Verdun Cathedral(Notre-Dame de Verdun) was consecrated in 1147 but was built on the site of an earlier church. The 12th-century Lion Door on the north side has a lavishly decoratedtympanum.The whole building was heavily restored in the 18th century.
• TheEpiscopal Palacewas built in the 18th century by Robert de Cotte and has a fine façade. Part of the building is occupied by theWorld Peace Centre.
• ThePrincerie Museumis located in the former residence of the Primicier (the highest-ranking public servant) ofVerdun.It contains historic work of art from the region.
• The "Subterrean Citadel" is situated at the entrance of Verdun. It holds 4 km (2 mi) of shafts that used to accommodate soldiers during the war.
• The formerAbbey of St Paulhouses thepalais de justiceand the headquarters of the sub-prefecture of Meuse.

• 
  Verdun town hall
• 
  Verdun Cathedral
• 
  Verdun episcopal palace

Notable people

• Nicholas of Verdun(1130–1205), goldsmith
• Nicolas Psaume(1518–1575), prince-bishop
• Giovanni Veneroni(1642–1708), linguist
• François de Chevert(1695–1769), army general
• Henry Madin(1698–1748), composer
• Jean-Nicolas Desandrouins(1729–1792), army general
• Jean-Nicolas Pache(1746–1823), politician
• Moyse Alcan(1817–1869), poet and publisher
• Philippe Bunau-Varilla(1859–1940), engineer
• René Dufaure de Montmirail(1876-1917), football manager
• Élisabeth Brasseur(1896–1972), choral conductor
• Francine Larrimore(1898–1975), U.S. actress
• Danielle Mitterrand(1924–2011), First Lady of France
• Sophie Body-Gendrot(1942–2018), political scientist
• Hervé Revelli(b. 1946), footballer
• Mark Meadows(b. 1959), U.S. politician
• Pierre Delval(b. 1960), criminologist and forensic scientist
• Isabelle Nanty(b. 1962), actress, screen and theatre director, screenwriter

See also

• Séré de Rivières system

Further reading

• Michelin (April 2000).Illustrated Michelin Guide to the battlefields "Verdun and the Battles for its Possessions".Naval & Military Press.ISBN9781843420668.
• Horne, Alistair (1993)."The Price of Glory" Verdun 1916.Penguin Publishing.ISBN9780140170412.
• Holstein, Christina (January 2009).Walking Verdun.Casemate Publishers.ISBN978-1844158676.
• Buckingham, William F. (2007).Battlefield Guide VERDUN 1916.Tempus.ISBN9780752441481.

External links

• Official web site Verdun
• Tourist Office of Verdun
• The Battle of VerdunArchived10 February 2018 at theWayback Machine
• La place forte de Verdun 1870–1918,well documented website on the extensive fortification system around Verdun
• GPS-Teamproject "Verdun - Somme - 1916"
• "My visits to the battlefields of Verdun".Archived fromthe originalon 28 April 2009.Retrieved14 October2008.
• "Forum Eerste Wereldoorlog, Dutch/Flemish Forum".
• "World War I Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery and Memorial".American Battle Monuments Commission.Archived fromthe originalon 11 February 2006.Retrieved17 January2006.
• "Photo album of old and modern Verdun area".Archived fromthe originalon 10 May 2007.
• "Verdun — A Battle of the Great war".
• "The old fortifications of Verdun".
• The subterranean citadelunderneath Verdun