Muğla
Muğla(pronouncedmoo-lah) is a city in theSouthern Aegeanregion of Turkey, with a population of about 120,000 in 2022, including the outlying villages. Yet for all its size, it has a remarkably well-preserved and scenic old town centre.
Understand
[edit]Muğla stands inland on the road between Izmir and the coastal towns (once trading ports and nowadays beach resorts), near the point where the Aegean Sea turns the corner into the Mediterranean. In antiquity it was Mobolla, which morphed through several spellings to become Muğla, but next-to-nothing remains of its earliest days. It has always been a quiet market town, set in an agricultural region though its immediate vicinity is rather barren. It stands at 670 m altitude on a mountainside, so it's pleasantly cool on summer days when the coast is hot and humid.
The city is the provincial capital, so if your bag is stolen or you prang your rented motor-scooter inBodrum,Marmaris,DalamanorFethiye,then Muğla is where the police report will locate the mishap – local government and other bureaucracy is a major employer here. Most travellers zip past on the D550 bypass and hardly notice the place. But it's remarkable how, amidst so much Turkish urban mediocrity, Muğla has somehow retained so many charming 18th–19th century buildings. Visit it quick before the developers get there.
Get in
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The nearest airports areBodrum(BJVIATA) to the west, andDalaman(DLMIATA) to the south. Both have domestic and international flights, especially budget flights full of European holidaymakers, and are an hour's drive from Muğla.
Muğla has a good bus service as it's on the route from Istanbul to the major resorts of Marmaris and Dalaman. Buses run every hour or so, taking 10-11 hours viaGebze,Izmirand Aydın, for a fare in 2023 of 900 TL. They continue south toGökova(for Akyaka) then branch for eitherMarmarisor Ortaca (forDalyanandDalaman),GöcekandFethiye(for Ölüdeniz). Bus lines includePamukkale,Flixbus andMetro Turizm.
1Menteşe Otogarıis the inter-city bus station, out on D500 four km southwest of town. This is also the hub for the provincial buses described below. Dolmuşes and taxis will get you downtown.
2Muğla Otogarıthe old bus station is on Atatürk Blv 1 km southwest of town centre. A dolmuş or local bus might deposit you here, then walk the rest.
By road from Izmir, take motorway O-31 / E87 south to Aydın, then turn onto D550.
From Bodrum, take D330 east to Milas and Yatağan, then join D550 southbound. FromDenizlitake D330 west.
Get around
[edit]Walk around the old centre - everything's with a km or so, and you don't want a vehicle in those twisty alleys.
Muttasis the regional bus service. Lines you might use are 48-22 to Milas-Bodrum airport, 48-12 to Dalaman, 48-7 to Marmaris and 48-1 to Bodrum town.
See
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- 1Great Mosque of Muğla(Ulu Camii),Fabrika Sk 6.Large mosque built in 1344 by the Beys of Menteşe, but what you see now is a restoration of 1838. Further restoration in 2008 kept the later appearance.
- 2Saat Kulesithe clocktower was built in 1895. It's hemmed in by dreary modern buildings and doesn't serve as a landmark as other cities' clocktowers do. Below is an Ottoman bazaar orArasta.
- Şeyh Camiior Sheikh Mosque is north flank of the clocktower. It was built in 1565 by Sheikh Bedrettin and the minaret was added in the early 19th century.
- 3Kurşunlu Cami,Fark Aksoy Sk 3.This large mosque was built in 1495, which you might not guess from the atrium extension to its front added in 1900. The interior behind that is more traditional and the dome is leaded, henceKurşunluin Turkish. It was refurbished in 2022.
- Yağcılar Han100 m north of Kurşunlu Cami is a restored 18th-century caravanserai, used as a touristy craft and carpet market.
- 4Muğla Museum,Eski Postane Cd,☏+90 252 214 6948.Closed.This has a good archaeological and ethnographical collection, as well as animal and plant fossils found at nearby Kaklıcatepe. It's temporarily closed.Free.
- Konakaltı Hanopposite the museum is a caravanserai built around 1800 and used as an events venue.
- 5Saburhanealong Topaltı 1st Çk is the centre of a delightful quarter of 18th and 19th century buildings winding up the hillside, in a mix of Ottoman and Greek styles.
Do
[edit]- Hamamsor Turkish baths / saunas: historic examples are Vakıflar Hamam (built 1258) at Mustafa Muğlalı Cd 5 by the museum, Sekibaşı Hamamı (15th century) 500 m further west, Han Hamam east and Rum Hamamı in the old quarter. Good luck finding any of them open.
- Football:Muğlaspor pay soccer away down in the amateur leagues. The stadium is next to Demircioğlu Park Hotel.
- Le Tunnel de l'Amournear the clocktower purports to be a marriage agency, bedecked with pix of cute Ukrainian girls. Best stick to watching football.
Buy
[edit]Lots of little stores: Şok, Migros and A101 chain stores all have franchises in town centre.
Eat
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- Saatli Kule Cdthe street west of the clocktower has a cluster of eating places. These include Kadir Usta'nın Yeri, Dedo muglakebap ve köftecisi, Muğla Lokantası and Du Buyon.
- Köfteci Kemal,Kurşunlu Cd 31(by Kurşunlu mosque).Good meatballs.
- 1Süpüroğlu,Karabağlar Yaylası 56, Orhaniye,☏+90 546 935 2683.Daily 09:00-02:00.Some km out, and you won't want to drive this road in darkness, but a charming garden setting for trad meaty fare.
Drink
[edit]- Lâl Wine Club is at Turgut Reis Cd 4 by Kurşunlu Cami, open M-Sa 15:00-01:00.
Sleep
[edit]- 1TN&CO Suites,Recai Güreli Cd 5,☏+90 252 212 4864.Smart central place.B&B double 1500 TL.
- 2Demircioğlu Park Hotel,Cumhuriyet Cd 4(next to football stadium),☏+90 252 214 5050.Decent enough business hotel, cleanliness varies.B&B double 2000 TL.
- Petek Hotelis 200 m south of Demircioğlu Park Hotel.
- 3Carissa Otel,14th Sk 10,☏+90 252 214 2222.New, squeaky clean and eager to please.B&B double 2000 TL.
- Köteklihas a cluster of accommodation. It's south near the university and junction of D330.
Connect
[edit]Muğla and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of March 2023, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
Go next
[edit]- An arc of major beach resorts lies within 100 km of Muğla.
- Bodrumis the party capital of Turkey, with a well-preserved citadel.
- Akyakais a village with beautiful traditional architecture.
- Marmarishas an old castle, engulfed by a modern resort along a craggy coast.
- Dalyanhas rock-cut ancient tombs, boat trips through marshlands, and a sandy beach where Mediterranean turtles lay their eggs.
- Fethiyeis backed by mountains dotted with Lycian ruins. Just beyond is the "blue lagoon" ofÖlüdeniz.
| Routes through Muğla |
| Izmir←Selçuk← | N S |
→Akyaka→Ends at |
Bodrum←Milas (  N)← |
W E |
→Denizli→Konya |