Matthew Schneier isNew York’schief restaurant critic. He covers the newest, best, and most exciting restaurants in the city and the people who make New York the world’s greatest restaurant town. Previously a features writer forNew York,he has also been a reporter for the New YorkTimes.
Le Veau d’Or Is Excellent AgainThe Frenchette crew has taken over the 87-year-old restaurant, and the snails are as garlicky and the duck as pink as ever.