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India travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you’ll love it

Golden Temple, Amritsar
Golden Temple, Amritsar
ALAMY
The Times

Travelling in India can overwhelm your senses with myriad sights, smells and sounds. One moment you might be gazing at the snowclad Himalayas in Ladakh and the next sipping beer and eating fried fish at a beach shack in Goa. Another, you could be listening to the clattering of train wheels as you careen through the Nilgiri mountains, or the gentle lapping sounds of Kerala’s backwaters on a houseboat cruise. Then there’s the contrasting architecture: swanky malls in Bengaluru and ancient archaeological wonders in Mahabalipuram.

Can I travel to India from the UK? Entry requirements explained

What you will remember the most are the people; the warm smiles and hospitality of more than 1.3 billion souls, a largely young population embracing modernity while firmly holding on to traditions and culture — and eager to tell you India’s story.

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What to do

One of the first travelling tips for India is “do not attempt it all”. With an area equivalent to most of western Europe, a single trip will barely scratch the surface. Spend a few days in the capital city of New Delhi ticking off the big-name sights*: Mughal-era Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Qutub Minar, and Humayun’s Tomb. Immerse yourself in the frenetic markets of Chandni Chowk before finding a moment of peace at the landscaped Lodhi Gardens. Then there’s Agra* for the Taj Mahal — best visited in the early morning or towards sunset to avoid the tourist hordes.

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From here, proceed to Rajasthan to explore its colourful cities; the pink city of Jaipur* with its intricate Hawa Mahal, City Palace, and Amber Fort; the blue city of Jodhpur* with Mehrangarh Fort overlooking labyrinthine streets flanked by indigo house; and the golden city of Jaisalmer with its forts, havelis (mansions) and the sand dunes of the Thar Desert. Kolkata, in West Bengal, may not be on the usual tourist trail, but its languid pace, colonial architecture and superb food is worth a short detour.

Take a break from the chaos of Indian cities and head into the jungles to spot the big cats; tigers in Ranthambore* and Bandhavgarh national parks, leopards in Jawai and lions in Sasan Gir. Then, dive straight into hectic (and humid) Mumbai for eclectic art galleries in Kala Ghoda and trendy cafés and restaurants in Bandra. Make your way to Marine Drive to watch the sun set over the Arabian Sea and the Queen’s Necklace light up. No India travel guide is complete without a mention of Goa, India’s sunshine state known for its beaches, food, and relaxed vibe. Lately, it has become a hub for the craft drinks industry with some excellent beers, gins, and rums — not to mention the local cashew nut liquor, feni.

Further south, the intricately carved monuments dotted around the ancient village of Hampi in Karnataka evoke the grandeur of the medieval-era Vijayanagara Empire and make a dramatic picture against a backdrop of granite boulders. A brief halt at the hill stations of Kodagu (Coorg) or Chikmagalur will give you a taste of Indian coffee amid picturesque plantations.

South India’s major cities have their own charms — Bengaluru for its malls, restaurants, and craft breweries and Chennai for its multicoloured temples and the sandy Marina Beach along the Bay of Bengal. Wind up your trip in soul-soothing Kerala where palm-fringed beaches and shimmering backwaters are interspersed with ayurveda spas; further inland, wildlife reserves, spice plantations and tea estates glisten green, living up to the state’s moniker of God’s own country.

Discover the best places to visit in India

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Where to stay

Whatever your budget, there’s an accommodation option for you; from backpacker hostels and dirt-cheap hotels to swanky five-stars and royal palaces-turned-hotels, India covers the entire gamut. Bed and breakfast at a basic hotel can be had at as little as £10-15 but be warned that accommodation quality and amenities can vary.

At the other end of the spectrum, luxury hotels may not always burn a hole in your pocket; even £100 can get you a swish stay. International hotel chains abound and you can also splurge at one of the homegrown luxury chains — Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Tower* and ITC Maurya* in New Delhi are top picks. For more recommendations, see the best hotels in Delhi.

You can stay at one of India’s many palace hotels for a truly royal experience. Forts and palaces belonging to erstwhile maharajas or havelis of zamindars (landowners) have been restored into heritage hotels that offer a glimpse of a glorious past with their vintage furniture, plush fabrics, and heirloom artefacts. Rajasthan, in particular, is replete with such hotels at various price points, but you will find options in almost every state.

As you travel around India, choose boutique hotels that evoke a sense of the place: British Raj-era plantation bungalows on Darjeeling tea estates, treehouses overlooking vineyards in Nashik, and houseboats on Dal Lake in Srinagar or on the Alleppey backwaters. Even jungle safaris do not require you to slum out; from Ranthambore to Kabini, luxury wilderness camps are spread across various national parks in India.

Don’t miss

Northeast India — comprising the “seven sisters” Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura, and Sikkim — is one of the most scenic yet least explored regions in the country. Home to the one-horned rhino, Kaziranga National Park in Assam is a must-visit, as is Majuli, the largest river island in the world and a birder’s paradise.

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The state is also dotted with lush tea estates, many of which have handy on-site accommodation. Meghalaya (land of the rainclouds) is one of the wettest places on earth with spectacular waterfalls and dramatic “living” root bridges deep in tropical forests. Its capital city Shillong hosts the annual Cherry Blossom Festival in November. For the adventurous traveller, Sikkim brings river rafting, kayaking, paragliding and trekking opportunities, as well as striking views of Kangchenjunga, the highest Himalayan peak in India and third highest on Earth. Several boutique travel operators now create curated trips to the northeastern states that are timed around festivals (such as Assam’s harvest festival Bihu) or centred on indigenous culture, crafts, and textiles (such as the tribal weavers of Manipur).

At the other end of the country, off the southwest Malabar Coast of Kerala, the archipelago of Lakshadweep beckons with its white sandy beaches, pristine lagoons, and warm waters perfect for snorkelling and diving amidst unspoilt coral reefs. More water activities await on the eastern coast, where the Andaman Islands glitter like emeralds in the turquoise waters of the Bay of Bengal. The golden beaches of Havelock Island and Neil Island are some of the best in India for swimming and snorkelling. Head over to Kalipur Beach in Diglipur for turtle nesting season from mid-December to April.

Best time to visit

Weather-wise, December to March is the best time to visit India, but if you want to catch a couple of festivals, target October to November. Avoid the monsoon season from June to September.

Discover the best festivals in India

FAQs

How much should I budget for a trip to India?
India can be ridiculously cheap. In general, food and public transport are inexpensive and even high-end hotels can seem modestly priced given the favourable exchange rate. Budget about £70 per day for a mid-range trip rising to £150-175 per day for a luxury traveller.

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Where should I start in India?
The so-called Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan (Jaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer) is a good place to start your trip to India (a tourist visa is essential). You will cover several big-ticket attractions and get a taste of Indian culture. Add a few days in Kerala for some sun and sand, delectable coastal cuisine, and a relaxing ayurveda spa experience before you return home.

Is India safe for tourists?
In general, yes — although pickpocketing, bag-snatching, and taxi scams are common, especially in touristy areas and on public transport. Solo female travellers should remain vigilant, avoid deserted and poorly lit areas, and dress modestly. LGBTQ+ travellers should exercise caution as attitudes towards homosexuality are largely conservative. And finally, take care with food and water hygiene; hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus vaccines are recommended.

Currency Indian rupee

Take me there

Inspired to visit India but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and Virgin Holidays*.

Discover holidays to New Delhi*
Discover holidays to Goa*
Discover holidays to Rajasthan*
Discover holidays to Kerala*
Discover tours in India*

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